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Old 08-07-2012, 02:49 PM   #281
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Modded the Fender for the Air Filter. Took alot of Cutting and Grinding


Here is the Fitment


I just placed an order with SiliconeIntakes.com for 3.5" 45* Silicone Coupling. So the Air Filter will be push forward more instead of hanging in the Wheel Well.

Custom Bracket.


Mounted the Oil Catch Can


All the Fitting and Hose Mounted. (I know the Fitting is not all the way on)


Front Bumper is back on


Waiting for the 45* Silicone Coupling to move this Air Filter Closer to the Bumper and not in the Wheel Well


Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Not sure exactly when...someday.

Anthony,

If you stay in Miami...I think Viral says any hotel with Miami in it is high class and recommended.
I got a place we can crash if we need to Let's plan for Thanksgiving!

-Anthony

Last edited by TrippinBimmer; 08-07-2012 at 04:22 PM. Reason: Added more Progress. Official Done with the AA Install.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:22 PM   #282
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:22 PM   #283
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I know it's a little late....but you could have avoided all that cutting/grinding by re-locating the headlight ballast. I'm in the middle of this myself....and I'm very temped to cut/grind.

So the inlet to the oil catch can comes from the valve cover? Where does the outlet go to?

Looking good though!
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:00 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
I know it's a little late....but you could have avoided all that cutting/grinding by re-locating the headlight ballast. I'm in the middle of this myself....and I'm very temped to cut/grind.

So the inlet to the oil catch can comes from the valve cover? Where does the outlet go to?

Looking good though!
PEI since mine is a MS54 the Ballast isn't removable So I have to cut/grind to get the 3.5" pipe down into that section. The issue I have right now is I lost about .75 turn on the wheel to the right. I am waiting on the 45* elbow to see i can move the MAF and Filter out of the wheel well to make it fit better.

The Inlet of the Oil Catch Can comes from the Valve Cover and the Outlet goes into AA Pipe that wrap around the charger that goes to the Air Filter.

-Anthony

Last edited by TrippinBimmer; 08-08-2012 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:16 PM   #285
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Haven't looked at your build for a LONG time wouldn't think your still doing it. Thought it would be done by now lol.
Anyways it looks like it's coming together nicely. How much psi are you going to run in the final build?. Are you going to run water/meth at all?. What type of bypass valve are you planning on using?. And are you swapping in a manual or sticking to auto? I can't remember. To lazy to read through all of these pages.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:00 PM   #286
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Yeah, my filter is in the same location. I like the ESS design which uses the OEM filter housing. Everytime I need to clean my air filter, I have to take the headlight and front bumper off. Its a massive PIA...but I can remove everything and put it back together within an hour. Mad skilz...and, unfortunately, a lot of practice.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:02 PM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrippinBimmer View Post
I got a place we can crash if we need to Let's plan for Thanksgiving!

-Anthony
Text me. Not sure if I can do during thanksgiving but I might be able to plan something family related.
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:31 PM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MalibuMafiaV View Post
Haven't looked at your build for a LONG time wouldn't think your still doing it. Thought it would be done by now lol.
Anyways it looks like it's coming together nicely. How much psi are you going to run in the final build? 10.5 psi Are you going to run water/meth at all? AA Meth Kit What type of bypass valve are you planning on using? AA BOV And are you swapping in a manual or sticking to auto? Auto I can't remember. To lazy to read through all of these pages.


Quote:
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Text me. Not sure if I can do during thanksgiving but I might be able to plan something family related.
Sending a Txt

-Anthony
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Old 08-13-2012, 04:03 PM   #289
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I encountered a nearly identical problem with the filter needing to cut into the fender. Cut and installed part of my old Injen intake (the 45* section 2 nearer the TB). It definitely works, but instead of needing to trim the fender, I had to trim some of the front clip. Ent result can be seen from the front here. My fitment issues were less MS45 related and more XI related since the compressor->IC tubing had to be run on the outside of the bumper shock mount extrusion.

The piping definitely causes headaches.
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Old 08-14-2012, 05:40 AM   #290
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the MAF/Filter was a huge PITA for me as well. I eneded up relocating my balast and cutting the back of my headlight up a bit. The intake is nestled right against the back of my headlight housing.
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:12 AM   #291
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The air filter I have is not nearly as wide but longer.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:26 PM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
The air filter I have is not nearly as wide but longer.
I have the that as well now with a PreFilter Sock on it. I will be installing my new 45* on it later so I can turn more.

-Trip
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:22 PM   #293
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After one tank of gas...



The Radium comes with 12 SS Condensers. Seems like it is not enough to slow down the Vacuum and let the oil and air separation. I will be ordering more Screens but not sure how many should I added 0.0 The Charger is seeing some oil...

Pei330ci know what the vacuum should be at in our motor (in the crank case)?

-Anthony

Last edited by TrippinBimmer; 08-20-2012 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:27 PM   #294
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Originally Posted by TrippinBimmer View Post
After one tank of gas...



The Radium comes with 12 SS Condensers. Seems like it is not enough to slow down the Vacuum and let the oil and air separation. I will be ordering more Screens but not sure how many should I added 0.0 The Charger is seeing some oil...

Pei330ci know what the vacuum should be at in our motor (in the crank case)?

-Anthony

If this helps, I'm reading anywhere from 18-22 at the back of the intake manifold. I think you're looking for crankcase though which may differ.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:17 AM   #295
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Quote:
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If this helps, I'm reading anywhere from 18-22 at the back of the intake manifold. I think you're looking for crankcase though which may differ.
Anthony,

With the OEM system, -18 to -22 is correct at the manifold. It will depend on the efficiency of the cyclone separator what the actual pan vacuum will be with the OEM system connected.

With a catch can connected, you won't have any vacuum from the intake manifold to pull on the crank case. So I would assume crank case pressure would be anywhere from atmospheric on upwards.

With the SC inlet "pulling" on the pan....I don't know what you'd see. Perhaps try hooking up a gauge before the catch can to check it out?
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:54 PM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
Anthony,

With the OEM system, -18 to -22 is correct at the manifold. It will depend on the efficiency of the cyclone separator what the actual pan vacuum will be with the OEM system connected.

With a catch can connected, you won't have any vacuum from the intake manifold to pull on the crank case. So I would assume crank case pressure would be anywhere from atmospheric on upwards.

With the SC inlet "pulling" on the pan....I don't know what you'd see. Perhaps try hooking up a gauge before the catch can to check it out?
It seems like when I hit Full BOOST. The Oil Catch Can isn't restrictive enough to let the vapor and oil separate. That it is sucking it all in.

-Anthony
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:56 PM   #297
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Quote:
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It seems like when I hit Full BOOST. The Oil Catch Can isn't restrictive enough to let the vapor and oil separate. That it is sucking it all in.

-Anthony
You've brought up 3 different topics:
  • Pressure in Crank Case
  • Oil/Air separator efficiency
  • Condensate recovery
Being that the point of an external catch can is to minimize crank-case pressure, I understand that to most people this is all one topic.

However, what is in the crank-case vapor changes with engine operating condition and also running RPM. At higher operating temps, moisture from combustion blow-by is absorbed by the oil. What is IN the crank case vapor is mostly oil. At lower operating temps, and usually lower operating RPMs, the crank case vapor has more latent moisture in it...which is why you have lots of "water" in your catch can.

Crank Case vapor is going to have to go through a phase change to stay in the catch can. That is, it will have to cool from gaseous form to liquid form. That is what those screens do...they form a kind of "cooling sink". Because oil vapor usually is a lot hotter, it's going to take more cooling to get it to stay in the catch can. That's why you are probably seeing some oil residue on the compressor, (SC inlet) as the vapor is being pulled through the catch can without fully cooling and condensing.

Note - What you are doing is different from most people's oil catch can setup. Most people just vent the exit side of the catch can to atmosphere, where you are pulling it back into the intake tract. (In effect, copying the OEM system, but with different hardware)

Some ideas:
  • Add more separator screens
  • Add a second catch can (In series)
  • Improve catch can cooling
  • Add a crank case evac pump and vent to atmosphere
As odd as this sounds, I've often thought of putting an oil cooler element in front of the oil catch can to help with phase change. Just thinking out loud though...
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:44 PM   #298
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Micky Mouse Ears, Wideband and Boost Guage installed 0.0





Tell me what you see wrong 0.o

-Trip
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:58 PM   #299
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Doesn't come out of vacuum?
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:28 PM   #300
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No boost is created at idle....need to go drive it and watch the gauge.
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