S54 custom turbo setup

Yes, it is 5 mm material. In the future it will take more than 0,6 bar

I'm preparing for next year championship, what do you guys think:
- about the K Sport Drag Race Coilovers
- maximum 17" Hoosier D.O.T. Drag Radials I can fit in the back?
- are there any front drag rims which can fit current brakes?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Cipri

Yes, it is 5 mm material. In the future it will take more than 0,6 bar

I'm preparing for next year championship, what do you guys think:
- about the K Sport Drag Race Coilovers
- maximum 17" Hoosier D.O.T. Drag Radials I can fit in the back?
- are there any front drag rims which can fit current brakes?

Thanks

Ksport dragrace coils are what im running and i couldnt be happier

I am looking for pistons/conrods combo and found these:
http://www.pureperformancemotorsport...roducts_id=471

Any reviews for them?

Originally Posted by Cipri

I am looking for pistons/conrods combo and found these:
http://www.pureperformancemotorsport...roducts_id=471

Any reviews for them?

If you want the piston/rods that we run in our built engines, email kirk@horsepowerfreaks.com.

Chris.

Originally Posted by Cipri

Yes, it is 5 mm material. In the future it will take more than 0,6 bar

I'm preparing for next year championship, what do you guys think:
- about the K Sport Drag Race Coilovers
- maximum 17" Hoosier D.O.T. Drag Radials I can fit in the back?
- are there any front drag rims which can fit current brakes?

Thanks

Best bet in drag rims are the GTO spare tire rim in 17 inch. They fit right on our BMW'as with no adapters. You can even use them with BBK if you space them out far enough. See this thread. I know its for a Corvette, but other than the adapter, the rest the principles are the same for our BMW's. We are close (enough) to the same weight etc, so dont turn you nose up just because the information comes from a different brand car. It matters not a whit. We dont need an adapter just a spacer big enough to clear what ever brakes we are using. Our stock brakes may not need ANY spacer. Dont know. The thread talks about front radial tires too.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sout...t-runners.html


You have to be careful with 315 series tires in 17 inch. Some will fit like the Nitto drag radials. Others like the MT's (I think) are wider than the Nittos and might be beyond regular fender rolling capabilities. You DO have put a serious roll in to get 315's to fit. Even 295's in some brands can be very tight. Either one should be great for drag tire. Maybe somebody knows about the Hoosier 315mm drag radials. If they are not much wider than the Nitto 555r's then they will fit and be great. Some think the Hoosier is the best Drag Radial available..even better than the great Mickey Thompsons. You cant go wrong with either one. You need to check. 295mm MIGHT be the biggest Hoosier you can fit with out major fender surgery. Definitely go for the 315's if you can make them fit.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sout...t-runners.html


Good luck! Please dont forget to show us your final set up. That will be most interesting.

Thanks Bdave for the infos, I will go with Hoosier 275/40 R17 DOT.
Today I have decided to go back to 4.10 gears, we will see what happens

The other option for a front runner is a X5 spare as well which is a 17". Which would be easier for you to get. Or even a E90 M3 spare for guys with BBK front which is an 18" space saver.

I have increased the boost until the stock pump was maxed out.

With the exhaust cutout open it's making maximum 0.9BAR and with it closed 0.8BAR.

Intake vanos is dead, so the car is loosing torque (compared to the old results), around 100NM from 3000RPM up to 5500RPM.

Originally Posted by Cipri

I use this car for drag so this is why I don't need full boost to soon.
In the wastegate I use the smallest spring 0.2 BAR.

Great build!! Excellent fabrication!!
Just my opinion on your boost. Your header is a very efficent design it directs the air at the turbo but not so much the wastegate. Your wastegate is opening before your max boost but the majority of the exhaust is just bypassing it from velocity of the air and going to the turbo. This is showing in your dyno. From your dyno I would say your wastegate is opening at 3500 rpm and from then on its creeping to your max boost. When running low boost these sort of problems occur as you go higher in the boost your tubo will start working off of pressure instead of the velocity. The wastegate becomes more of a pressure relief, then wastegate placement does not effect being able to control boost. This also becomes more of a problem when you run a larger more efficient turbine because this lowers the pressure in the header also.
To test this on your car you can use a ball and spring manual boost controller. Make sure to have race gas in it incase it goes high, fast, early.

To remedy this you can relocate the wastegate with the direction of exhaust flow or put in a second wastegate. It might help a little if you move your wastegate closer to the collector this will also decrease volume in the header and anytime you decrease volume in a header you have a great side effect of decreasing spool time.
The reason you get faster spool from less volume is when a exhaust valve opens it raises the pressure in the header faster and higher. The more volume in the header the slower the pressure will be raised.
A split exhaust housing reduces the header volume by half. That is if its on a split header with two wastegates one for each side.

I built a 22re toyota truck that would hit 14lbs or 1 bar at 1200 rpms. The header was a log design with very little volume. I also built a 302 with a small turbo but it was a v8. I kept the exhaust tubing small but since it was a v8 the volume was still too much for fast spool.

There are no problems with the wastegate location, the presure is stable from 4000RPM to 8000RPM...
I am having issues with the intake vanos, hope to solve them soon.

Originally Posted by Cipri

Big problem, I can't connect any more to the AEM EMS, I receive the following error "Parity error". I was receiving this error right after install but it was only time to time, now it seems permanent - I tryied from 3 different laptops using 3 different cables and the same error is shown each time.
Car is not starting any more with the AEM plugged in, I changed back to old injectors and went NA using only the car ECU.
I have also sent an e-mail to Kirk from HPF, maybe they can help in some way...

What do you guys recommend?

I had the same issue connecting the laptop. I found that u have to start the AEM pro software and run it offline . Then use the ecu connect with the ignition off and wait until the AEM pro is waiting to connect. Now turn the ignition on. It connects every time now. If u get a parity error I just unplug the USB and restart the software.

I found that out the hard way, after strugling several days to get a connection
What is funny is that AEM doesn't admit this problem...

Originally Posted by Cipri

I found that out the hard way, after strugling several days to get a connection
What is funny is that AEM doesn't admit this problem...

I found out by watching a AEM user video online and noticed the connect sequence and tried it.

Was that the video for Water/Methanol kit with the bald guy?

Originally Posted by Cipri

Was that the video for Water/Methanol kit with the bald guy?

It was a bald guy but different video. Here is the link

Hi Cipri,
Could you post your cal file. I would like to see your Ign timing map to compare to the stock Ign. You ever get your Vanos fixed? Also did you remove your AC compressor?
Thanks for posting your build.

I'm not tuning the car, there is a local tuner who is doing it, I will ask him about the file.

The AC was removed, there is not enough space to keep it in the same place when you go top mount.

Didn't fix the vanos because it's winter here and I don't drive the car. Next month I will start the engine build and will change the vanos unit as well.

Ok thank you.

New setup this year:
Precision 7675 dual ball bearing
Pauter rods
Je pistons, 9.5:1 with 87mm bore
L19 head studs & ARP main studs
Total engine rebuild (block, head, seals...)
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump + controller with custom surge tank and fuel lines
1100 Siemens Injectors
ClutchMasters FX850
4" custom exhaust, with dual exit (like stock)
15" rear wheels with Hoosier quick time pro dot 26x11.50-15
Custom subframe reinforcement

Target is 850HP with pump fuel

Originally Posted by Cipri

New setup this year:
Precision 7675 dual ball bearing
Pauter rods
Je pistons, 9.5:1 with 87mm bore
L19 head studs & ARP main studs
Total engine rebuild (block, head, seals...)
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump + controller with custom surge tank and fuel lines
1100 Siemens Injectors
ClutchMasters FX850
4" custom exhaust, with dual exit (like stock)
15" rear wheels with Hoosier quick time pro dot 26x11.50-15
Custom subframe reinforcement

Target is 850HP with pump fuel

Looking good neighbour

I am sure you will hit your target pump gas numbers.