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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Suspension & Braking

Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 06-13-2012, 04:41 PM   #41
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Here are some quick pics
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:13 PM   #42
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Mango

how did you go with your RTAB replacement. I have the Meyle RTABs and MIS Tool ready to go this weekend and I was looking for some feedback on your experience.

Cheers
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:15 PM   #43
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Preload went well. I put the carrier at the same angle it went out. it naturally lines up with a line thats cast into the trailing arm. you'll see it. compensate in the opposite direction slightly before you apply your final torque of 81 ft lbs otherwise it'll rotate out of position as you torque it down. use a long breaker bar on one side and a torque wrench on the other side. make sure you use lots of oil on the bottom half of the MIS steel threaded rod. oil after every use (a total of four times)

don't forget to unclip the brake line from the trailing arm via the 10mm nut. very very important step. jack up the car via the rear subframe and put a jackstand on either side. remove the lower 18mm shock bolt as well. torque shock bolt to 78 ft lbs and carrier to body @ 47 ft lbs each.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:08 PM   #44
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Thanks Mang-o.

I'll be on to this either this weekend or the next, depending on available time. I'm budgeting about 1.5 hours per side. Too little?
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:13 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Ballistic325 View Post
Thanks Mang-o.

I'll be on to this either this weekend or the next, depending on available time. I'm budgeting about 1.5 hours per side. Too little?
More than enough. I can do it fairly quiclkly now. 30 minutes a side.

another tip, the trailing arm has a beveled edge. MAKE SURE you push the new bushing in on THAT side of the trailing arm. It acts as a guide to get it started. Of course make sure the bushing is clamped with a large hose clamp. Keep tightening the clamp til the bushing is fully compressed (no gap in the splits)
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Last edited by Mango; 08-17-2012 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:51 PM   #46
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No time this past weekend unfortunately.... aiming for the coming weekend.

Will report back once done
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:55 PM   #47
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Ok so first snag. Copper grease is not readily available.

Is there anything else I can lube Meyle HD bushings with instead of copper grease? I've seen a fair few other lubes such as brown, black, silver and marine and according to the packaging they are suitable for wheels breaings, joints and chasis mounting or flex points. Most of them are PTFE or lithium based.

Any ideas?
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:10 PM   #48
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You lube the poly ones. Meyle HD are rubber like stock.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:44 AM   #49
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Excellent. So no lube required?

Might give this a shot tonight....



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Old 09-05-2012, 03:43 PM   #50
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More than enough. I can do it fairly quiclkly now. 30 minutes a side.

another tip, the trailing arm has a beveled edge. MAKE SURE you push the new bushing in on THAT side of the trailing arm. It acts as a guide to get it started. Of course make sure the bushing is clamped with a large hose clamp. Keep tightening the clamp til the bushing is fully compressed (no gap in the splits)
SO once it's clamped so there are no gaps , you just push it in a bit and then remove the clamp? should I put some dish soap, anti-sieze or something to help it in?

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Old 09-06-2012, 11:53 AM   #51
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anyone?
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:09 PM   #52
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NO. Nothing ever. NOTHING NOTHING NOTHING. STOCK BUSHINGS GO IN BONE DRY. nothing nothing nothing. where are people getting this grease on stock bushings idea
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:32 PM   #53
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Did you press them until there was even overlap of aluminum bushing housing on both sides to center it?

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Old 09-06-2012, 12:54 PM   #54
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Who me? I did. not sure if you're asking me or someone else
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:55 PM   #55
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BTW i dont think the clamp is totally necessary but it helps a ton. just do it. clamps are like $3
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:06 PM   #56
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Yes,I was was asking you indirectly,and would listen to anyone if they replied. Thanks.

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Old 09-06-2012, 02:59 PM   #57
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^^^
If you're using OEM style split bushings, no lube should be used.
That's OE style.

and yes. 44 people just said that.
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:51 PM   #58
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BTW i dont think the clamp is totally necessary but it helps a ton. just do it. clamps are like $3
I guess It will makes sense when I start doing it, but wouldn't the screw that's used to tighten the hose clamp get in the way of pressing it in? unless I use one, press it in..unloosen it-> move it back a bit -> push in again and keep repeating.

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Old 09-06-2012, 04:10 PM   #59
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I guess It will makes sense when I start doing it, but wouldn't the screw that's used to tighten the hose clamp get in the way of pressing it in? unless I use one, press it in..unloosen it-> move it back a bit -> push in again and keep repeating.
overthinking. press in until you reach the clamp. remove clamp. continue to press in.
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:37 PM   #60
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Just finished making this. I'll get some longer grade 8 rod for tommorow to do the job properly. Click image for larger version

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