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Old 09-27-2012, 12:32 AM   #1
victort24-7
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No pressure in the clutch pedal

Just have a question for you tech's. I changed my clutch today and now have play when I press the pedal but then when im halfway from the floor it finally has pressure. I took the slave cylinder off and tried to bleed it. I pressed the pin on the slave in all the way and when I had my bro push the pedal it would have the same play and finally start pushing the pin out of the slave when the pedal was half way from the floor. Its as if it isnt applying pressure to the slave until the pedal is half way from the floor and then it finally kicks in. Is my master cylinder bad? I tried to bleed the system and get the same results. My brakes are working fine.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:24 AM   #2
Nervous
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3 possibilities:
1) Air in the lines
2) Failed slave clutch cylinder
3) Failed master clutch cylinder.

If you are sure you bled clutch correctly, then you have only 2 options (unless there is a leak somewhere, but I assume you'd see it immediately).

I think option 3 is more likely to occur than option 2, since when slave cyl fails it usually leaks. Master clutch cyl may develop internal leak and this is what may cause effect like yours.

But still - make sure you bled the clutch according to TIS:
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/04/53/11
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:47 AM   #3
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the clutch needs to be vacuum bled or it will not get all the air out. the resivior is extremely small for the clutch and needs to be filled back up every time you press fluid out. put a vacuum bleeder on it and it should take all the air out...i wouldnt think that the master cylinder is bad if your brakes still work.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:50 AM   #4
Nervous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swaggerwagon View Post
the clutch needs to be vacuum bled or it will not get all the air out. the resivior is extremely small for the clutch and needs to be filled back up every time you press fluid out. put a vacuum bleeder on it and it should take all the air out...i wouldnt think that the master cylinder is bad if your brakes still work.
Master clutch cylinder has nothing to do with brakes. As well as, master brake cylinder has nothing to do with clutch. All what they share is the brake fluid reservoir on top of the master brake cylinder, but these are two completely separate systems.

But I agree that it looks like not bled clutch rather than failed anything.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:32 AM   #5
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Vacuum bleed? I used a pressure bleeder on my E36 when I replaced the clutch master and slave. Easy schmeasy.

And, the brake reservior and the clutch reservior are the same reservior. The clutch feed is higher on the reservoir than the brake feed so that if the fluid runs low, the clutch fails first.

Get a pressure bleeder from Autozone's Loaner Tool desk. Hook it up. Have a friend work the clutch pedal a little bit (they do not have to pump the pedal or anything, just work it enough that fluid flows through it) while you open the bleed screw on the slave. Catch the fluid that comes out, and close the bleed screw when the bubbles stop.

Last edited by jdstrickland; 09-27-2012 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:48 AM   #6
victort24-7
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Alright this might make a difference. When i replaced the clutch and put everything back together. I pressed the pedal and it wouldnt budge. Not expecting it not to move i think i gave it to much pressure from the start with the first push and heard a sound that almost sounded like a snap. Not sure what it was. Then I took out the slave cylinder and checked it. It moved. I pressed the pedal and applied pressure to the slave cylinder pin and the pressure wouldn't kick in until I was half way through the motion with pressing the pedal down. I put the slave back in while fighting it because it has to be compressed. I tried pushing the clutch pedal again and now it moved just like the pin in the slave cylinder, still had the same play. What I mean by play is that it is just bouncing back because of the spring. Then actual pressure because of the fluid is kicking in. In class now but when i get home ill check the master cylinder. And get a bleeder tool. But i also think it could be something else. maybe like the pedal itself. Maybe tht crack or snap could have come from the something before the master cylinder. ??? Need to get this done. Thank you for your help guys. Any input is better than none at all.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:49 AM   #7
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I am second on pressure bleeder, it makes life much easier. I bought Motive Power Brake Bleeder 0109 - European Black Label, works perfectly:


It is just $67 here: http://www.lpiracing.com/Motive-Prod...l-31p62182.htm

Last edited by Nervous; 09-27-2012 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:57 AM   #8
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http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Powe...leeder/ES3474/


Only $45

Edit - Its not the "Black Label". What the diff?
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:57 AM   #9
swaggerwagon
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pressure bleed and vacuum bleed both work equally well. at the shop we vacuum bleed which is why i am such a fan of it. which ever is easier for you to do. bleeding brakes by pumping does not work the same as bleeding a clutch. pumping a clutch pedal will not push the air out in the same manner. since you are bleeding the clutch might wnt to consider doing the brakes too since they are on the same resivior.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:20 PM   #10
victort24-7
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Ill be getting one from a friend today. Ill report back with results. Thanks guys.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:48 PM   #11
Nervous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnetonka View Post
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Powe...leeder/ES3474/


Only $45

Edit - Its not the "Black Label". What the diff?
It is $49.95, not $45. Plus shipping (no less than $11).

ECS has black label too: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1895871/ (but again, shipping is a killer, that is why I don't buy anything from ECS).

lpiracing.com shipping was $7.

Quote:
Upgraded "Black Label" edition with machined aluminum cap
The "Black Label" is the deluxe version of Motives popular Power Bleeder, with a machined aluminum cap and custom swivel fitting.
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:05 PM   #12
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ahh, was speed posting from work. This job wouldnt be so bad if it werent for the customers...
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:20 PM   #13
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what would job be without customers?
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:54 PM   #14
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Uninterrupted internet.
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:01 PM   #15
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Your plan approved!!

Now get to it!
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:11 PM   #16
victort24-7
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No luck guys. Just did the bleeding. No air in the system. My clutch pedal comes out more than my brake pedal. I dont remember it being like this. Is it like this on every 330I? So then when I push it and it goes a bit past my brake pedal, the pressure in the clutch finally kicks in. any ideas?
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:30 PM   #17
Nervous
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Well... Seems to me that you broke master clutch cylinder (MCC) that time when you couldn't push it but then it snapped. The MCC is attached directly to the clutch pedal and this is the first thing to suspect in this case, IMO.
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:44 PM   #18
victort24-7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nervous View Post
Well... Seems to me that you broke master clutch cylinder (MCC) that time when you couldn't push it but then it snapped. The MCC is attached directly to the clutch pedal and this is the first thing to suspect in this case, IMO.
yes i think so too. Could it skip a tooth in there? ill be ordering one now.
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:58 PM   #19
victort24-7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nervous View Post
Well... Seems to me that you broke master clutch cylinder (MCC) that time when you couldn't push it but then it snapped. The MCC is attached directly to the clutch pedal and this is the first thing to suspect in this case, IMO.
Thank you for the input! You helped me find my problem! It was the pedal! The part that connects to the master cylinder. The pin was broken. So I put a bolt through the pedal and the master cylinder shaft and now my pedal is even with my brake pedal and works perfectly!
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