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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 08-31-2012, 05:11 PM   #21
Jesse M
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: East Greenwich, RI
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My Ride: 05' ZHP
Does anybody know of a way to bypass or fool the PWM signal (green/blk wire) so I can run an aftermarket electric fan without having a CEL for "fan check failure"?
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:04 PM   #22
jared_wiesner
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My Ride: 1999 328i (M54b30)
Couldn't you hook up the module from a working factory fan to the aftermarket fan.
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:05 PM   #23
Jesse M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jared_wiesner View Post
Couldn't you hook up the module from a working factory fan to the aftermarket fan.
You definitely could and that is my second option if I can't figure this out. I'm currently trying to source one online somewhere. You can't just buy the controller though; you have to buy the entire fan assembly. :/
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:55 PM   #24
lui328i
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Location: fontana ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse M View Post
You definitely could and that is my second option if I can't figure this out. I'm currently trying to source one online somewhere. You can't just buy the controller though; you have to buy the entire fan assembly. :/
I have figured out how to bypass or activate fan with out the speed control unit but it run at one speed with no problem ive had it like that for over a year. my fan got stuck on was killing my battery so it had power so what i did was cut the 12v wire and tied in a $10 relay the relay allows the cumputer to turn the fan on when u turn the key so the fan is always on but cant hurt anything the wire i choose to flip on the relay was the wire that people use to turn on angel eyes from dme u can find info on angel eyes diy
i have pics of fan reay but have not posted hit me up if u need help
i think i have figured out a cheaperway than buying a fan in need to make up a diy.
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Old 05-05-2015, 12:22 AM   #25
wise-1
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My Ride: 04' 330i ZHP
I know I'm reviving an old thread - but it seemed as though some of you were on to something with this issue. Aside from all the alternative fixes - I'm having an identical issue. I've replaced all related sensors - fan - thermostat & all other cooling system components.

Issue is still, fan does not turn on in any circumstance - no codes either. A/C works when the engine builds revs but cuts out when at idle, I have recharged the a/c system to ensure it is building enough pressure - haven't checked the condenser (though I feel this is far from the issue). I've tested all connection to the temp sensor/thermostat/fan module/ & that little black box that is attached to the top of the fan. All connections are good.

I've also checked all fuses that even have a loose correlation with the cooling/fan system.

Even when I fed the fan switch my own trigger, it would not turn on. I could how-ever turn on temporarily with the scan tool.

Only conclusion I can come to is my ecu is not (for w/e reason) sending a signal for the feedback it is getting from the sensors.

Can anyone chime in on this? Previous issues/fixes/possible brainstorming?


The Car:

2004 330i M-performance. 6mt.
Shark-injector flash
AFE intake
242000 kilometers
best car i've ever owned...until now.
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:21 PM   #26
FlyGirl
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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My Ride: 2000 323i, 2013 535i
I wish I still lived in St. Charles...Colorado is too far to drive my 2000 BMW 323i with the fan not working to enlist your help on a personal level. I did find this thread:

http://blog.bavauto.com/14421/bmw-au...nosing-how-to/

...that might have helped to diagnose the problem, but I am not sure I even know what I am doing to test the system. My fan won't run either, regardless of turning on the A/C. I might have gotten a couple of quarter-turns, but it's pretty much stationary. I checked the fuse #37 in the glove box, and all is well there. I unplugged the fan from the wire connection and stuck a tip of my husband's voltmeter into the connector/plug of the wire and touched it to each of the metal prongs, but I have a feeling I am doing this wrong and that this is not how I test for voltage. I did not get the 12 volt reading that I think I'm supposed to have. Do you happen to have a link to a visual or video tutorial for how to test voltage in that wire connection so I can ensure 12 volts are reaching the fan. If the wire is not powered, do you know what my next step would be?
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:51 PM   #27
FlyGirl
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Update on using voltmeter

So, I was obviously not aware of how to use the voltmeter correctly. For that, I just Google-searched "how to use Fluke T5-600 voltmeter," which is the type of voltmeter I own. I now used both the red and black wands and touched one of each to the metal parts of the wire plug corresponding to the two large wires. Bingo...12 volts registered! Having ruled out the fuse and ensuring the electrical current registered the correct voltage, and also having bled the coolant of air bubbles, I can now conclude with a comforting level of certainty that I need a new fan because the motor is likely bad.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:23 AM   #28
sannouni
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My Ride: 2005 330XI
PLEASE READ THIS (I GOT MY ISSUE RESOLVED WITH THE ELECTRIC FAN, maybe this can help someone in the future)

i've had the fan stop working on me during traffic, car overheated, no engine codes, no CEL, when i plugged in the BMW software, it gave a code for Fan Activation. I tried activating the fan but it didnt work, so i bought a new electric fan, when i installed it, i tested it using the BMW software, it worked fine, and continued so for a week, til overheat again. i plugged the car again to the computer, tried to activate the fan using the software, didnt work... went to the parts store, got another fan under warranty, it worked for a couple of days, and died again. being sure that it's not the fan anymore, i doubted the signal wire running from the car wiring harness to the fan. it is really hard to check the signal on that, the strange and funny thing is that it was showing some signs of life when i plug in the multimeter to the signal wire (green and black, thin wire running from the car harness to the fan connector) so i assumed that it was working fine... never assume something with BMWs, that's what i learned.
the next day, car overheated again while being stuck in traffic, i had to pull over and just wait for traffic to ease off so i can drive the car at speeds where the temperature is more steady til i get it home... i got fed up and checked the diagram, traced the Signal Wire (the Green and Black wire) to the (ECM) Engine Control Module connector and found it to be Pin #4 on the circuit diagram for the electric fan (look up "electric fan E46 Circuit Diagram", on the web, you will find it), unplugged the connector at the fan, and the other end at the ECM, checked continuity of that wire, only to find a 1K Ohm resistance on that line, which, after discussing with an electrical engineer friend, found it to be suspiciously too high) i spliced the wire from the engine control module (ECM) to the electric fan connector, it worked, i've been driving the car now for few days with no issues, and the fan does come on much more than it used to before... also, note this: i had tested my old fan (i didnt throw it out), and it turned out that there was nothing wrong with the original BMW electric fan, it fired right up...

I really hope that this can help someone in the future...
by the way: the AC used to cut off when i'm at a stop in traffic, i thought i had a problem with my AC, but it turned out that once i fixed the fan issue, the AC problem disappeared
also note: when i say the car overheats, i was suspecting something wrong when the AC was working normally and it shuts off at stops... so i didnt let the heat reach more than 3/4 at the heat gauge, i always turned it off before it went into the Red Zone.
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