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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today! |
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#1 |
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Registered User
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New member with a question
Hi guys,
Just picked up a 2002 M3 convertible with 70,000 miles! Been loving every minute of it. My question is in regard to the manual transmission. sometimes when I try to get into 3rd or 5th, I get a grinding noise (not all the time) and it is hard to get it into the gears. All others are fine but its 3rd and 5th that are causing the occasional problems. Does anyone know what could be causing this problem? Thanks in advance guys and glad to join the M3 forum now! |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Could be a number of things, namely synchros, could even be the linkage - being that both the gears are on the odd side and away from center. Also and guys please correct me on this if I'm wrong, but don't 3rd and 5th exist on the same shaft?
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Also, I had a subaru that had similar issues, turns out it was a pilot bearing issue, the clutch was not fully disengaging
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the response, also as I was starting it up this morning(not that cold), I noticed that it cranked a bit longer than on a warm start,is this normal?
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#5 |
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Registered User
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it might be because the fluid is cold. mine is like that first thing in the morning putting it from 1-2. when the fluid warms up it gets better. also do you have any info on what type of fluid is in there now? ive heard mixed reviews of redline and royal purple. i stick with pensotin (sp?) mtf-2
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#6 |
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Registered User
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I'd start by replacing the fluid. By any chance, are you letting the car warm up or just driving off?
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![]() -2003 M3 Vert -1967 Mini Cooper |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Change all your fluids bro, if haven't already been done, and use OEM FLUIDS!! Shop around for the best prices. Amazon usually has some good prices.
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2001 M3, LSB 6spd, purchased 6/09 with 25K miles.
Mods: Evolve Airbox & Tune, SGT swaintech coated headers, OEM Euro Cats, Larini exhaust, 3.91 gears, Turner Pulleys, TCKline S/A coilovers, H&R front sway Bar, Rear Sway Bar, RE Strut bar, PowerFlex RTAB's, Apex ARC-8's, subframe reinforcement, Laser Int:thumbsup2: |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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#9 |
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Registered User
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If you read the manual it recommends that you do not let the car sit to warm up it is encouraged that you get in and drive the e46 M3 due to it having a dry sump, but to not drive it hard until the yellow lights by the rpm have moved down to the warmed up level then the engine is ready to be driven at its normal to high operating rate without doing any harm to it .
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Bimmer App |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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^^^this. Don't do that anymore.
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![]() -2003 M3 Vert -1967 Mini Cooper |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the responses everyone. One more question, is there any way to get the ashtray door off? Mine is a little worn and I wanted to see if I could replace it.
Last edited by gry335i; 10-03-2012 at 08:15 AM. |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I agree with the comment regarding driving the car from cold rather than letting it idle. Just remember to drive it GENTLY until the oil has warmed up to normal temperatures. For what it's worth, the M3 does not have a dry sump engine. It has no external oil pump and no secondary oil reservoir. Instead it has an oil pan, which is attached to the engine and sits just below the crankshaft; all of the oil drains there when the engine is stopped. A dry sump engine has a separate oil tank, like the Porsche 911.
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for clearing that up DSilk. You learn something new everyday, that's why I like this forum.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Bimmer App |
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