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Old 10-04-2012, 08:25 AM   #41
diM3tri
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check brake fluid level. I had those 2 lights, put in more brake fluid and they went off
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:33 AM   #42
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I guess I could buy the same two tires for the back but I just bought those pirelli p6's in the back for $300. What am I supposed to do with those? I'm on minimum wage guys, halp!
Sell your BMW because you can't afford it. If you can't put money in your BMW to maintain it, it is going to suck. Buy a cheap ass Honda Civic that works.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:16 PM   #43
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Nobody is going to want to buy a broken e46 that has lights on. I can afford it, I just can't afford spending $700 on a cooling system. I have the money right now to replace the back two tires with the same ones I just bought for the front. I'm going to go by my local tire shop and see if they'll buy the pirellis back that only have like 1500mi on them. It's just shitty to me because those tires were $360. I can afford to maintain the car. I don't have unlimited funds. My girlfriend and I are saving as much as we can because she needs surgery soon and I need my car reliable to get to work and so she can get to work. So we can afford what insurance isn't covering. I knew someone would say get a Honda.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:26 PM   #44
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you should've gotten evo V12s. worlds cheaper and better than your pirellis
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:46 PM   #45
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Nobody is going to want to buy a broken e46 that has lights on. I can afford it, I just can't afford spending $700 on a cooling system. I have the money right now to replace the back two tires with the same ones I just bought for the front. I'm going to go by my local tire shop and see if they'll buy the pirellis back that only have like 1500mi on them. It's just shitty to me because those tires were $360. I can afford to maintain the car. I don't have unlimited funds. My girlfriend and I are saving as much as we can because she needs surgery soon and I need my car reliable to get to work and so she can get to work. So we can afford what insurance isn't covering. I knew someone would say get a Honda.
Do not sell your car, sheesh!

I've lost track of what you have discovered so far, soory. You do not need new tires. It is poor practice to have different brands of tires on the front and rear, but this happens all of the time and everybody lives to fight another day. It is important to have two tires of the same brand on the same axle, but different brands front and rear is no big deal. If there are different brands on the same axle, especially the front, then it is likely that you might have an all-season on one side and a full on summer tire on the other, or a Z-rated on one side and an H-rated on the other. This all means that the carcass of the tires will be made differently, and this makes the rolling resistance different, and when there is different rolling resistance on the axle that does the steering, then there is a pull to one side or the other. This completely ignores the problems that come from different tread patterns that affect traction and grip, and those kinds of things.

You really need tires of the same brand and size on the same axle, but different brands or sizes on different axles is okay within defined limits.

Your car takes a tire that is essentially 25 inches in diameter, whether the wheel is a 15", 16", 17" or 18". The wheel diameter does not matter. If the WIDTH of the tire is the same front and rear, then you can change fitment from a 225/55x15 to a 225/40x18 without any problems at all. You could use the 225/55x15 on the front and a 225/40x18 on the rear without any problems -- it would look like crap, but mechanically it can be done. The 225/55x15 and 225/40x18 are within a whisker of being the same overall diameter of 25 inches, get it.

With a staggered set up -- wider tires in the rear than on the front -- then you need to reduce the sidewall height (actually called the Aspect Ratio) as the tire gets wider so that the same overall diameter is selected as is installed on the front. Much of trhe reason for this is that the traction control looks at the speed of the rear tires relative to the speed of the front and decides that the rear tires have broken loose -- lost traction -- and are spinning on the ground. The traction control will either apply what it does at the wrong time or fail to apply it at the right time depending on variances in the input from the wheel speed sensors that arise from changes in the tire diameter. If the rear tire is smaller than the front, then the traction control will always be on the verge of detecting wheel spin, and you experience drag and performance lags caused by the brakes applying themselves and the throttle shutting down. If the rear tires are larger, then the traction control will take longer to apply itself because the speed of the larger tire has to catch up to and surpass the speed of the front tires before traction control comes into play.

The wheel speed sensors are devices that look at a chopper disc built into the wheel hub. The sensors create a square wave with a frequency that is determined by the speed of the tire on the ground. The design is such that the front and rear should make the same size wave -- the waves should be the same frequency -- at all times. As a practical matter, a car that is turning a corner makes a different frequency square wave at each tire because the arc of the travel is different but the time to travel is the same -- all four tires take a different path to get to the same place so the speed of each is different. The variance caused by turning is built into the algorithm used to determine when a tire is freely spinning. Get it?

So, your traction control light is far more likely to be caused by the work that was done in the area of the sensors than by the tires themselves. You can buy two tires at any time, but they should be the same brand and size when mounted to the same axle -- and it is sheer insanity to put two new tires on one side of the car and have two old tires on the other side, your should not do this, and a reputable tire store will not do it.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:48 PM   #46
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+1 on the brake fluid, by the way. I think I told you this already, and not others are telling you also.

DSC and ABS are things that depend on the brake system to work. If the brake system thinks it does not work it will turn on a light and alert the dependent systems that it is not reliable, and those systems will turn on their light.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:07 PM   #47
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Do not sell your car, sheesh!

I've lost track of what you have discovered so far, soory. You do not need new tires. It is poor practice to have different brands of tires on the front and rear, but this happens all of the time and everybody lives to fight another day. It is important to have two tires of the same brand on the same axle, but different brands front and rear is no big deal. If there are different brands on the same axle, especially the front, then it is likely that you might have an all-season on one side and a full on summer tire on the other, or a Z-rated on one side and an H-rated on the other. This all means that the carcass of the tires will be made differently, and this makes the rolling resistance different, and when there is different rolling resistance on the axle that does the steering, then there is a pull to one side or the other. This completely ignores the problems that come from different tread patterns that affect traction and grip, and those kinds of things.

You really need tires of the same brand and size on the same axle, but different brands or sizes on different axles is okay within defined limits.

Your car takes a tire that is essentially 25 inches in diameter, whether the wheel is a 15", 16", 17" or 18". The wheel diameter does not matter. If the WIDTH of the tire is the same front and rear, then you can change fitment from a 225/55x15 to a 225/40x18 without any problems at all. You could use the 225/55x15 on the front and a 225/40x18 on the rear without any problems -- it would look like crap, but mechanically it can be done. The 225/55x15 and 225/40x18 are within a whisker of being the same overall diameter of 25 inches, get it.

With a staggered set up -- wider tires in the rear than on the front -- then you need to reduce the sidewall height (actually called the Aspect Ratio) as the tire gets wider so that the same overall diameter is selected as is installed on the front. Much of trhe reason for this is that the traction control looks at the speed of the rear tires relative to the speed of the front and decides that the rear tires have broken loose -- lost traction -- and are spinning on the ground. The traction control will either apply what it does at the wrong time or fail to apply it at the right time depending on variances in the input from the wheel speed sensors that arise from changes in the tire diameter. If the rear tire is smaller than the front, then the traction control will always be on the verge of detecting wheel spin, and you experience drag and performance lags caused by the brakes applying themselves and the throttle shutting down. If the rear tires are larger, then the traction control will take longer to apply itself because the speed of the larger tire has to catch up to and surpass the speed of the front tires before traction control comes into play.

The wheel speed sensors are devices that look at a chopper disc built into the wheel hub. The sensors create a square wave with a frequency that is determined by the speed of the tire on the ground. The design is such that the front and rear should make the same size wave -- the waves should be the same frequency -- at all times. As a practical matter, a car that is turning a corner makes a different frequency square wave at each tire because the arc of the travel is different but the time to travel is the same -- all four tires take a different path to get to the same place so the speed of each is different. The variance caused by turning is built into the algorithm used to determine when a tire is freely spinning. Get it?

So, your traction control light is far more likely to be caused by the work that was done in the area of the sensors than by the tires themselves. You can buy two tires at any time, but they should be the same brand and size when mounted to the same axle -- and it is sheer insanity to put two new tires on one side of the car and have two old tires on the other side, your should not do this, and a reputable tire store will not do it.
I have 2 Pirelli P6 tires 245-40x18 on the rear axel. I just got 2 Falken Ziex-512 for the front axel measuring 225-40x18. So you think this doesn't have much to do with the lights? More of a chance they messed something up?
Before the front was Nexen N3000 of the same dimensions on the front. And as I've said I ran it for six months with no lights at all.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:08 PM   #48
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I didn't mean to quote the whole post but I'm on my phone and its a PITA. I'll fix it when I get to a PC.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:53 PM   #49
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I have 2 Pirelli P6 tires 245-40x18 on the rear axel. I just got 2 Falken Ziex-512 for the front axel measuring 225-40x18. So you think this doesn't have much to do with the lights? More of a chance they messed something up?
Before the front was Nexen N3000 of the same dimensions on the front. And as I've said I ran it for six months with no lights at all.
You would have done better to put 245/35s on the back. This would make the front and rear about 1/4-inch different in diameter. The 245/40 is 3/4-inch different, but it is larger so you should be within the margins allowed.

Yes, for the thrid day now, the chance that the tire store disturbed something is very high. It should not be a big deal to them to pull the tires to inspect. The right rear houses a speed sensor and a wear sensor.

Aren't we talking about checking the level of the Brake Fluid somewhere in this post, or is that another one? If the yellow light for the brakes turns red when the parking brake handle is pulled, then the yellow light means the fluid is low. I thought we covered this already.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:00 PM   #50
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245 35 def better choice
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:34 PM   #51
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There is so much misinformation in the first page of this thread.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:41 AM   #52
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I really don't want those idiots touching my car again. But if you guys are pretty sure it's not due to the tires I'll go back there and get them to figure it out. I'm not footing the bill for something they broke. I just don't want to have anything else come out of pocket if it was their fault. I know it's pretty hard to break a wheel sensor. So next is check brake fluid and then bring it back up there. I had the back tires balanced while I was there too. So all of the tires were off of the car and anything could of happened.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:23 PM   #53
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My 740 does not like rain. Ever since I had a local guy install my new rotors and pads, my brake light stays on. I found a brake pad wear sensor & wire in the trunk. He didn't put in on the right rear. Also when I drive in the rain, after about 15 min. the ABS and DSC lights come on and stay on until the car has been driven for a day in dry weather. If I continue to drive in the rain after the ABS & DSC lights come on, the speedometer quits working and the steering becomes very heavy (lose power assist). I think I have an open connection box where the rear brake pad wear sensor should be connected and when water gets in the connection box it affects the DSC and ABS. I am investigating this now and if I determine the true problem and the fix, I will tell you.

I think your car needs new brake pad wear sensors (2) on left front and back right. Look for ABS/DSC speed sensor wires when you do this. If this comes from having someone change your tires, they could easily have knocked off a brake pad wear sensor. I have always thought that they fit kinda loose in the little slot on the steel back of the brake pad. I hope this solves your problem........ Let me know.
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