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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 10-04-2012, 11:48 PM   #81
jkahng
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fit the rubber gasket on the inner rim of the tank first and slowly slide the pump in place. the pump has a spring on the bottom that should stay if you installed it right. it should be a very snug fit.

i made the mistake of trying to fit the gasket on the pump and attempted to force the pump in.


it seemed like it worked but it didn't
i found out the hard way the first time i filled up yesterday.

the gasket keeps the fuel from spilling over when full. now the right tank is always full as our suction system pumps fuel from the left to the right continuously.

my car port has melted asphalt from the gas split overnight
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:20 PM   #82
englezu
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i have .. a problem(e46 diesel 2004) i think with this pumps ,when i have poor gas in my car, my cb show me i have left to do 30km.. if i let the car few hours , the cb show me i have left 100km and if i go ride , the cb goes up , 100,110,150 km , after it`s goes down .. the sign of gas goes up and down ( same with computer board value )

1. i can take out the floating to clean it and the sensors?
2. i must buy some new floating ?


i know at back passenger is the floating for 1 - 1/2 and drive seat back for 1/2- 1/4

i can open up only the passenger floating to clean ?


i`m sorry for my bad english !
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:31 PM   #83
Whammy
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For step 9, do not use a screwdriver. A better choice would be a socket on the end of a hand wrench. It will go MUCH faster as there is more surface in contact.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:08 AM   #84
jayriv72
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Mileage is 113K and I've been experiencing similar issues the last couple of weeks. I replaced fuel sending unit and pump today - problems resolved. TKC, thanks for the DIY tutorial - extremely thorough!
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:26 AM   #85
Solidjake
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^ any difference now with how the car drives? how is the idle, etc
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:30 AM   #86
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Idle hums around 600 and very steady. Acceleration is smooth and without any n
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:32 AM   #87
jayriv72
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...without any noticeable hesitation or lag. I've yet to drive it around a bit to determine if MPGs have improved. DTE no longer varying 15+/- miles at idle as well.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:33 AM   #88
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Awesome. Thanks!
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:40 AM   #89
jayriv72
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Solidjake - No prob. In "diagnosing" the problem, I stumbled onto one of your DIY videos on cleaning the ICV. Perhaps, I'll consider doing this as PM sometime in the near future, unless you don't feel it necessary.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:03 PM   #90
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Worth cleaning regardless if it was never done. A lot of crud builds up in there.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:54 PM   #91
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Surprisingly, it wasn't as cruddy as expected or illustrated in other DIY posts. I cleaned it out anyway. I don't know it it's just all in my head, but for some strange reason - it feels as though it idles and cruises much smoother.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:45 PM   #92
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:26 PM   #93
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Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter today as preventative maintenance. DIY is here. On the fuel pump, seat the rubber gasket into position first on the tank, then insert the fuel pump. Ensure the pump is flat on top of the gasket, and that you didn't push the fuel pump in too quickly, causing the gasket to get pulled out of position. I bought the appropriate tool to torque the metal cover to 38nm's. Thankfully. no leaks after filling up (tank was at 1/4 when I did the pump replacement). Installed an OEM Siemens/VDO fuel pump, with BMW gasket.

Fuel filter - there are DIY's on how to do that, it's pretty straight forward (one DIY is here). If it's never been done (that you know of), have 6 approx. 1/2" new hose clamps on hand. When I changed it previously, I needed a new piece of hose for the vacuum connection.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:25 PM   #94
utkbimmer
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Help...my fuel gauge is showing just less than half a tank when full and gradually decreases from there. When I do the cluster diagnostic I get a reading for the left sensor but nothing for the right. I have replaced the right fuel sender unit and get the same result. On the 6.2 test, it shows that both sensors are functioning. After that, i checked continuity on the wiring from the right sensor plug to the back of the cluster and it checked out fine. Everything up until now has pointed me to the cluster, but haven't read a case online where the cluster was the issue. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 01-16-2014, 02:08 PM   #95
TheRiddle
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just a quick note....

i had this problem 2/3 years ago...same range same situation...

a bmw tech told me to drive always with the tank filled up and then to use it 'till the car stops


i tried that for a a month, then i drived 'till the end of the fuel...

it worked !!!

now everything is back to normality and the range indicated is ok !!
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:19 AM   #96
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I have a fuel level problem with a twist, I shorted my cars battery jump starting it with a peugeot (black positive terminal!) and now my fuel gauge doesn't work. The OBC is showing no fuel in left or right tanks and I just filled it to the brim to be sure I have fuel.

I want to test the two senders to establish where my problem is, what I want to know is are they 2 seperate signals to the instrument cluster or does one feed signal to the other and then on to the cluster? If thats the case then its likely that its the "main" one thats fried.

I kind of hope its the passenger side as I just replaced the drivers side pump/sender month ago!!!
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Old 09-22-2014, 12:37 PM   #97
Danoff
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Did this DIY over the weekend, very easy. Did it according to the DIYs posted here, however in retrospect I would do it differently.

Everyone's DIY seems to think that the hose should come off before the ring is banged off. This makes zero sense to me. One person even commented that he felt that the ring would not come off until the hose because of some suction - also makes zero sense to me. EVERYONE says to disconnect the battery, also makes zero sense to me.

- Pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car, it will die from fuel starvation (this is easier than disconnecting the battery)
- Try to start again to make sure fuel is out of the lines as much as possible.
- This way, when you disconnect the electrical connection to the fuel pump, there will be no power to that connector.

- The fuel pump does not rotate when you bang the locking ring off of it. So there is no reason to disconnect the hose first, and there is no suction holding the ring in place.
- Bang the ring loose first so that you have no gasoline on top of the fuel pump while you're banging. You don't want to create a spark while there is gasoline present.
- If you remove the hose first, you will get some gasoline on the fuel pump (even if you have a rag ready and have pulled the fuse and let the car die). Furthermore, as you bang the ring you will get fuel sputtering from the open nozzle as the impact to the ring vibrates the pump.

Thanks to the OP for the DIY, very helpful. I just think it can be improved.

TL;DR
Pull the fuse, then electrical connection, then loosen ring, then hose. Put fuse back after the job is done.

Last edited by Danoff; 09-22-2014 at 12:42 PM.
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