* E46 Cooling Guide (Information w/parts list/bleeding) *

Expansion Tank, Automatic Thermostat there is a "OE Supplier" ,Pulleys are available as Meyle Units, Wahler Thermostat Housing, Engine Cool Fan Switch.




LMK.

joe

OE supplier is always good, Wahler is good, Meyle is good (though they should offer INA or Ruville) you should be fine really. just make sure waterpump is Saleri or Genuine BMW and expansion tank always Genuine BMW

I put OEM ET, hoses, OEM 2 sensor(1 in oil filter, 1 lower hose), Graf WP, wahle TM, OEM pulleys and belt!

Ok. I wanted to make sure. I'm going to call them about the WP. That part # brings up the Meyle waterpump. Do you see any issues with the FAE Switch? I'm converting to the electric fan as well at the same time.

Joe

Mr. Mango, in your bleeding instructions it sounds like the car is not running while filling it up (while inclined). Is that correct? Thx

Fill the car entirely the first time without running.

Originally Posted by SeattleLSB

Ok. I wanted to make sure. I'm going to call them about the WP. That part # brings up the Meyle waterpump. Do you see any issues with the FAE Switch? I'm converting to the electric fan as well at the same time.

Joe

Yeah call and ask for the Saleri pump. FAE switch.. not sure. go genuine when it comes to sensors/switches

Originally Posted by E46@46

Mr. Mango, in your bleeding instructions it sounds like the car is not running while filling it up (while inclined). Is that correct? Thx

yes. engine never running

I recently replaced my expansion tank.

I have checked the water level several times to make sure everything is good.

I checked yesterday and again this morning.

The coolant appears to have foam at the top. Even though I have bled it several times, it appears I have oil spitting out the expansion screw at the top.
It is definitely oil.

I have several oil drops along the engine bay and a few on the top of the alternator.

I was going to take off the cover of the engine and look closer. I was thinking it could be the gasket.

But if the gasket was bad, assuming that was the only problem, that would not allow oil into the radiator.

Could it be the water pump or heaven forbid, a crack somewhere in the engine head ?

I don't have oil or water leaking anywhere while it is sitting still.

I hope I don't get bad news from you.

What's your mileage?
What is the recently history of any abnormal overheating?
Did you see any oil in the coolant when you drained it?
Oil in the coolant before the ET failed?
Oil in the coolant is the best indicator of a failed head gasket.
Yes a failed gasket would allow oil into the radiator.

What does the oil look like on the dipstick?

How could a water pump allow oil into the coolant?

Originally Posted by Stinger9

What's your mileage?

80k
What is the recently history of any abnormal overheating?

expansion tank cracked, lost water overheated

Did you see any oil in the coolant when you drained it?

no


Oil in the coolant before the ET failed?

no

Oil in the coolant is the best indicator of a failed head gasket.

?

Yes a failed gasket would allow oil into the radiator.

What does the oil look like on the dipstick?



like oil...........but the level is higher than usual


How could a water pump allow oil into the coolant?

IDK

How does water get into the engine from a leaking gasket ?


If I replace the gasket, do I just do the gasket on top, or do I need a gasket kit?

Other than the gasket and new sealant, what do I need to do the job ?

There is also a faint burning smell.

Let me be clear. Are you confusing a valve cover gasket with a head gasket? They are very different, and replacing a head gasket is a horrible job that requires skill and probably the services of a machine shop to mill the head.

When the car overheats, in very short order the head can overheat enough to warp. That allows oil pressure from a channel up to the head to leak over into the coolant circulation channels.

Pull a sample of your coolant out of the ET with some tubing and examine it in a clear container. Report back.




It would also shed more light on the situation if you'd describe in detail exactly what happened before and after the ET failure. Where were you? How far from home? How much you drove after the fail?

Originally Posted by Stinger9

Let me be clear. Are you confusing a valve cover gasket with a head gasket? They are very different, and replacing a head gasket is a horrible job that requires skill and probably the services of a machine shop to mill the head.

When the car overheats, in very short order the head can overheat enough to warp. That allows oil pressure from a channel up to the head to leak over into the coolant circulation channels.

Pull a sample of your coolant out of the ET with some tubing and examine it in a clear container. Report back.




It would also shed more light on the situation if you'd describe in detail exactly what happened before and after the ET failure. Where were you? How far from home? How much you drove after the fail?

I was confusing the two gaskets. I was thinking of the valve cover gasket. I don't think that is going to solve my problem.

So, the head gasket repair is not an easy job ? This is what I need ?

The light came on in heavy traffic. It took a while to pull over. The coolant was low. I allowed it to cool off for 2 hours. Topped it off. Drove a mile to safety.
Did not overheat.

Plan B is to tow it to an indy shop.

Sorry to say you do need a professional to eliminate the possibility that you need to get a new head gasket.
Compression test and leak down test are both possibilities you should discuss with them.

When overheating in the slightest amount, stop the engine immediately and drive no more. Check for leaks. Cool and check ET level.

Thanks, I think I need a pro too...

Sooooo does anyone else have their coolant always stay at the exact minimum level? Every time I've ever topped it off, it just goes eventually moves down to the exact minimum but never goes any farther. Seeing as every car I've ever had seems to have the coolant at the exact minimum when it is cold, is this normal?

Generally speaking I lose no coolant over thousands of miles. Rarely do I add any.
When I do top it off, I bring it up to the max level rod reading. Over time as it decreases, it moves down slowly rather than falling to the min level.

Originally Posted by Zell

Sooooo does anyone else have their coolant always stay at the exact minimum level? Every time I've ever topped it off, it just goes eventually moves down to the exact minimum but never goes any farther. Seeing as every car I've ever had seems to have the coolant at the exact minimum when it is cold, is this normal?

Interesting theory. I always suspect I had a slow leak somewhere, even after I changed almost everything... So I keep topping up to the max before it got a chance to drop to min. Will refrain from topping up to see how it goes.

Depending on temp, my coolant either moves from min to max. keep it in that range and you'll be fine

I'm convinced that its time to replace my cooling system on my 2004 325i that now has 75K miles. However, my car is a SULEV with the M56 engine and I'm wondering if the parts shown in the E46 Cooling Guide are applicable to my vehicle. One of the on-line retailers told me there is SULEV specific radiator and that the standard M54 part will not work. However, I haven't been able to find a definitive answer on that. Are there other parts that may be specific to the M56? How do I go about identifying which (if any) parts are unique? Thank you.

Have you plugged your VIN into www.realoem.com and seen what part numbers come up on the search?
Check to see if they're the same as the general numbers for common e46's.