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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-04-2012, 09:25 PM   #21
Acrono
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Could be the e-brake system failing, check out my thread. My passenger side e-brake completely deteriorated. Making the car un-drivable until I removed the system.

So next time your car is up, take off the rotor and inspect the system. It will be obvious if it is at fault.

Scroll to the bottom of the thread:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...545&highlight=

Last edited by Acrono; 08-04-2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:33 PM   #22
Stanleyf233
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Cheers for the input Acrono, but already had the e-brake (hand brake to us in the UK) off, inspected cleaned and replaced and then reset iaw manual. i will however being having another close when i change the output shaft.
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanleyf233 View Post
OK, second hand drive-shaft (output shaft) purchased and on its way, anyone know how difficult it will be
to fit it?
The e30s were easy, the hardest bit was undoing the 30mm hub nut - 1/2" drive plus a breaker bar.

After that, the nuts attaching the shaft to the diff are numerous but easy! E30 was 8mm hex IIRC. A quick tip for these is to have someone in the car putting the car in gear to stop the output shaft from spinning as you move around all 6 bolts. Take it out of gear as you rotate the shaft to a convenient point to undo the next bolt. But this only works if the other rear wheel is on the floor or you have a strong handbrake!

Good luck, and I'm liking your perseverance and logic with he whole frequency detective work!
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:41 PM   #24
Stanleyf233
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Talking

Cheers mate, not worried by the 30mm nut as have the socket and 300Nm torque wrench etc. thinking more about the splined shaft as it locked with loctite 270 if its original. i make all my own presses etc on lathe at work so i will be able to fashion something i have no doubt. just hope this is the answer as it is getting on my **** now, but i wont be beaten!!
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:14 AM   #25
ChrisE46330ci
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Just wondering how you got on with the replacement of your drive shaft, did that solve the knocking? Just ordered mine hoping to replace it next week
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:37 AM   #26
Stanleyf233
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Right, where did you get yours from? got mine of eBay at 80 delivered, new 43mm bolts were 11 from BMW. should have been all good and i am now 99% it is one of the CV joints. discovered on removal of the old shaft (which is not completely removed yet) that there are two different types of output flange on the diff. An 86mm and a 94mm one. mine is fitted with the 86mm one and the replacement is a 94mm one so will have to get to diff output flanges at approx 65 each and another drive-shaft for the opposite side!

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=output+flange

So a bit of a nightmare at the moment! car looking a bit sorry with its arse up in the air!
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:40 AM   #27
ChrisE46330ci
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Ordered mine from eurocarparts.com, it was 221 but if you send your old one back your returned the 72 surcharge so 150. Haven't ordered bolts yet, need to phone around. The 330ci is definitely 94mm.

I used realoem to find out all the details and part numbers.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...69&hg=33&fg=25

It might be cheaper to reorder than have to start changing out flanges but suppose it depends on how long you are wanting to keep the car to justify the investment.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:39 PM   #28
Stanleyf233
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Just out of interest, PM your id for you car, the last 7 of the VIN so i can check, because that would make three types now, i definately have the 86mm type fitted which makes it a ball cage joint, my new one is a slip sleeve joint but i have a cousin that works at eurocarpart. its in section 331-2 of the service manual it describes both parts.
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:09 PM   #29
JasonSmithed
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I have the same problem with my car under hard acceleration. I put my car on jacks and my flex disc was shredded to pieces. They are cheap so ill prob replace center mount bearing too while I'm there. I'm trying to avoid buying a complete driveshaft.
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:44 AM   #30
Stanleyf233
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Already have a new guibo ready to go on as i agree it was the favourite to be be broken, till i timed it and have had a sound meter at different points in the car (i.e my 9 year old) to tell me where it was loudest. guibo checked anyway and appears fine but will be replaced soon anyway. 99% sure it is the outer LHS CV joint.
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:32 PM   #31
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I had a similar sound that you had under heavy torque, but when I out it on jack stands I couldn't hear it til I let the clutch out in 5th. I could hear a more defined sound from where the noise starts along with vibration origin.
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:13 PM   #32
Stanleyf233
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having some real issues getting the splined shaft to move out of the hub now. next step is an SDS drill set to hammer only!
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Old 08-19-2012, 04:42 PM   #33
Stanleyf233
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still having snags with the splined shaft! used a clarke hub puller but it only lasted one go!
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:44 AM   #34
Stanleyf233
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This has turned into some pretty major surgery!
Initial problem, left outer CV joint suspected to be tits up. Solution, remove drive shaft and replace. New drive shaft received but flange is too big, (94mm vs. 86mm). Two new flanges ordered at 94mm and a RHS drive shaft. RHS removed with no problems other than I bent my torque wrench shaft undoing hub nut. LHS, had splined shaft completely seized within hub. Removed the trailing arm to remove hub, had to cut handbrake cable as also seized likewise ABS sensor (probably knackered by now anyway). Driveshaft put in 10ton press to no avail. Assume bearing will be knackered with much more pressure if it's not already. New trailing arm, ABS sensor and handbrake cable ordered.
Just waiting for stuff to turn up now!! Pics to follow.
I hope this cures my knocking noise!!!!!!
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:09 AM   #35
Stanleyf233
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a now bent torque wrench
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:06 PM   #36
JasonSmithed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanleyf233 View Post
a now bent torque wrench
That's nasty what did you do
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:27 AM   #37
Stanleyf233
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That was done with wrench set to 320nm to undo the hub nut. i had a bar on the end of it to make life easy! But i can say that that nut was on much tighter than 300nm! it off now and I'll check calibration at work on Tuesday but it should be OK.
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Old 09-02-2012, 05:20 PM   #38
Stanleyf233
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OK, all bits back together now and from the little test I have done so far I appear to have cured the problem knocking.
I now have no speedometer and the DSC and ABS light lights are on. So all though the car is driveable I have fallen foul of design changes made between 06/2000, 09/2000 and 2003. Firstly I spotted on installation that the ABS ring (reluctor ring) on my old shaft is 94mm dia, the one on the new shaft is 79mm this means that my old sensors could not detect the windows on the reluctor ring and thus indicate an error. I then got hold of the sensors on the car that my shafts came from. A very tight fit, but fitted and found out that the plugs are different, spliced the new sensors on to my old plugs, still no joy. Turns out that the new sensors are Hall effect sensors (34526752702) and I require inductive (34521164652). So two new sensors ordered to match the originals. I will now have to get my ass on to a lathe and knock up some adaptor rings to go from 79mm dia to 94mm dia and either try and refit my old rings or by new.
The saga continues.......

Last edited by Stanleyf233; 09-06-2012 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:02 AM   #39
Stanleyf233
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Problem knocking noise is now finally solved! the initial diagnosis of the CV joint was correct. to sum up, the CV joint is not repairable or changeable, it does necessitate changing the drive shaft. BMW over the course yr 2000-2001 changed the numerous items at the back of the car. firstly the drive shaft itself was changed. from an item of equal diameter over its exposed length to possibly a stronger/improved version which has a larger diameter at either end. this also changed the type of CV joint on the diff end. this can be identified by how thick the drive shaft flange is and what size bolts you have fitted i.e. 23mm or 46mm. This also means that the diff output flanges are different. early model 330ci's will possibly have a flange that has an 86mm PCD where as later shafts require the flange that has a 94mm PCD. next at the wheel end of the drive shaft, the reluctor ring which is what generates the the square wave signal proportionate to speed is also a smaller at 79mm but still creates 47 pulses per rotation. The reluctor rings can be removed if you are careful with a punch and hammer see pics to further explain. next, the late model drive shaft with the small reluctor ring uses a sensor that works using the Hall effect. early model use a sensor that uses induction and therefore the two are not interchangeable also. Hope this helps anyone. Rule one is check twice buy once!!
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Last edited by Stanleyf233; 10-06-2012 at 07:07 AM.
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