* What did you do to/for your E46 today? *

Originally Posted by Beamer Creamer

Dont foget to use lube. Its kinda rough in there. There should only be brown half way up your dipstick just jokes

Haha thanks i won't forget. My arms currently look like i got in a fight with a cat and lost miserably.

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Did mechanic bounce your car when he did alignment? Prob not but it helps sometimes then you can tell if something else is wrong in system? It might keep going back into same place though i guess , then it wouldnt matter but yeah it does kinda sound like rtab is the area

Originally Posted by 325CiMaN

Right now i an currently balls deep in my engine bay replacing O2 sensors, but am having issues with the wiring,

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O2 sensors are probably one of the easiest things to do on an e46. Perhaps easier than your standard oil service. What issues are you encountering?

Originally Posted by tock172

O2 sensors are probably one of the easiest things to do on an e46. Perhaps easier than your standard oil service. What issues are you encountering?

The wiring is messed up, when i swapped the motor i made sure the o2's where in the right spot, but i have a random misfire while cruising due to engine ruining too rich, and o2 sensors not working properly, while inspecting wiring with my new snap on Digital multi meter i noticed that a few wires were shorted together. So now i am repairing the wire harness and am having issues with rerouting the harness to get to the spot thats shorted out

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Originally Posted by Beamer Creamer

Did mechanic bounce your car when he did alignment? Prob not but it helps sometimes then you can tell if something else is wrong in system? It might keep going back into same place though i guess , then it wouldnt matter but yeah it does kinda sound like rtab is the area

I don't know if he bounced the car but I'll be sure to tell him to do that next time.

Originally Posted by 325CiMaN

The wiring is messed up, when i swapped the motor i made sure the o2's where in the right spot, but i have a random misfire while cruising due to engine ruining too rich, and o2 sensors not working properly, while inspecting wiring with my new snap on Digital multi meter i noticed that a few wires were shorted together. So now i am repairing the wire harness and am having issues with rerouting the harness to get to the spot thats shorted out

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Damn I did not know you did a swap. Wiring and electrical issues are a pain in the ass. Hope you get it sorted out soon!

Ya 3.0l swap, it was pretty smooth process, but now little gremlins are starting to show there faces. Thank god my minor for college is electrical engineering! They are a pain but a challenge so it makes it fun.

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Ya thats how i feel about electrical. Is that a sniffer or what is special with the snap on? Or do you need engineering degree to knownthings to use it for? Also what is the scientific explanation for why you can get really low ohms test on positive wires sometimes? I mean when testing with no power in wires, ground shows near 0 and pos. wire is under 100 ohms? Just as example cuz i cant remember what ohms were but i thot way lower than 100. System worked fine but is that measuring through battery? I duno

Thought I had a washer fluid reservoir filter leak.... As it turns out the rubber gasket that attaches to the stem which inserts into the filter was just in a bunch. Straightened it up, re-attached, added fluid and voila! I mean the pump is still not working, But I got rid of the "washer fluid level low light"...

At 165450 miles, I have no alarms on my dash! Thank you lord!

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Originally Posted by KaliVertBoy

I don't know if he bounced the car but I'll be sure to tell him to do that next time.

Ya just get him to bounce front and rear after alignment then look at numbers after again of course. Can prob bounce harder without wreckin paint if push underhood and inside of trunk near trays

Originally Posted by jpbutler1983

Thought I had a washer fluid reservoir filter leak.... As it turns out the rubber gasket that attaches to the stem which inserts into the filter was just in a bunch. Straightened it up, re-attached, added fluid and voila! I mean the pump is still not working, But I got rid of the "washer fluid level low light"...

At 165450 miles, I have no alarms on my dash! Thank you lord!

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Pump is only $18. Replaced mine 2 weeks ago when it leaked all of my fluid onto the ground.

Originally Posted by jpbutler1983

Thought I had a washer fluid reservoir filter leak.... As it turns out the rubber gasket that attaches to the stem which inserts into the filter was just in a bunch. Straightened it up, re-attached, added fluid and voila! I mean the pump is still not working, But I got rid of the "washer fluid level low light"...

At 165450 miles, I have no alarms on my dash! Thank you lord!

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Is washer not seperate fuse from wipers? Coulda pulled? But still have leak i guess, but no light. How much is pump $30? Nevermind, youre prob workin on it. Good to see youre still runnin with 165k. No alarms but how is it otherwise?

Originally Posted by Beamer Creamer

Ya thats how i feel about electrical. Is that a sniffer or what is special with the snap on? Or do you need engineering degree to knownthings to use it for? Also what is the scientific explanation for why you can get really low ohms test on positive wires sometimes?

A digital multi meter aka dmm is a tool to test volts, ohms (resistance), and amps. The snap on one i bought is specifically made for automotive world, it can be hooked up to a lap top and it has a ociloscope, aka oscope. Which helps out diagnosing sensors, intermittent issues, it gives you the wave form of the sensor/actuator and you can watch wave form and compare to a known good sensor, or a known good wave form, and determine what is wrong. On my moms m3 i used it diagnose a intermittent missfire, i checked the coils, i noticed when the coil reaches a temperature of 230 or higher it misses until it cools back down below 230. It's an amazing tool i think everyone should have one and learn how to use it.

Are you testing for ohms with power applied or not? Cause with it applied it it isn't accurate, and a good wire, doesn't Matter if it's positive or negative or signal, should have low ohms like .001-.002ohms.

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Originally Posted by 325CiMaN

A digital multi meter aka dmm is a tool to test volts, ohms (resistance), and amps. The snap on one i bought is specifically made for automotive world, it can be hooked up to a lap top and it has a ociloscope, aka oscope. Which helps out diagnosing sensors, intermittent issues, it gives you the wave form of the sensor/actuator and you can watch wave form and compare to a known good sensor, or a known good wave form, and determine what is wrong. On my moms m3 i used it diagnose a intermittent missfire, i checked the coils, i noticed when the coil reaches a temperature of 230 or higher it misses until it cools back down below 230. It's an amazing tool i think everyone should have one and learn how to use it.

Are you testing for ohms with power applied or not? Cause with it applied it it isn't accurate, and a good wire, doesn't Matter if it's positive or negative or signal, should have low ohms like .001-.002ohms.

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The ground for the circuit was disconnected so positive would have just been run from battery pos. but no flow. I def need to learn more but as all these things go it is surprising what people know and can not figure out easy shtuff. Ya oscope and the rest sounds good. I always just looked at prices of $3000 and got turned off and didnt look into anymore. How much was yours?

I paid a reasonable 377 for mine brand new, and also Even tho the negative is disconnected and there is no flow threw the positive, the positive electrons are still going crazy in that wire.
I learned electrical from my father add he it's a electrical engineer for Intel and designed the pentium processors and is lead on all the new stuff he isn't allowed to talk about, lol he has taught me everything he knows, which is a God awful amount, the surprising thing, I'm only 20yrsld

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Originally Posted by 325CiMaN

I paid a reasonable 377 for mine brand new, and also Even tho the negative is disconnected and there is no flow threw the positive, the positive electrons are still going crazy in that wire.
I learned electrical from my father add he it's a electrical engineer for Intel and designed the pentium processors and is lead on all the new stuff he isn't allowed to talk about, lol he has taught me everything he knows, which is a God awful amount, the surprising thing, I'm only 20yrsld

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Ok. Thanks. I kinda figured, so i should really have battery ground disconnected for testing any unknown wires for ohms.

Originally Posted by Beamer Creamer

Ok. Thanks. I kinda figured, so i should really have battery ground disconnected for testing any unknown wires for ohms.

Correct, if you have the bently manual there is a HUGE wiring schematic section. It has helped me out a million times.

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Installed new slotted rotors and Hawk HP plus pads. Bedded in and ready for the track next weekend!

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Also i had issue after i put amp wiring behind carpet, i had to use same colored 4 guage wires for ground and one for positive, i was testing with test light and it lit on both wires. It shouldnt matter that both wires were run through loom together or does magnetic field mix somehow. Amp still worked fine so i had no idea. I spent alot of hours running all wires perfectly so i cant think of anything but them running too close to each other but they are close at the amp hookup also, or does that not matter because the magnetic field isnt as strong as over a 4 foot stretch?