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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-22-2012, 01:46 PM   #121
e46bmwlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
You've really bitten off much more than most others advise. The manifold removal is supposed to be extremely nasty. Do you confirm that?

And If I were going to do the manifold, I think I'd not want to face that again. I'd throw in new knock sensors and new plastic coolant lines that sit under the manifold. And unless you'd recently done the full CVV replacement, I'd think about that. I guess you could really go crazy replacing stuff there just to be sure!
I went fairly slow and piece by piece making sure I knew I would be able to put back what I took off. I didn't think it was that bad a all. Very doable.
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Old 09-22-2012, 02:14 PM   #122
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Very interesting and encouraging.
Still and all, I hope to never see this part of my car in pic below.


I see how easy to access the starter this makes things. Without the manifold, can you easily do both starter bolts from the top?
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:21 PM   #123
Mhnd
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I replaced my car starter last weekend on a 2004 330xi automatic transmission all from above without removing intake manifold, total work of 7 hours. It's a very difficult job but it's doable and require a lot of patient.
I will post some pictures soon. Followed this DIY and other Forums. Thanks to all who provided feedback and hints.

thanks

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-03-2012 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:33 AM   #124
dreznana
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I did this DIY starter motor on my 2003 320ci manual tranny last month and everything went smooth and well. Took me about 8 hrs to complete the job but can be much longer if I didnt read this DIY beforehand. So thanks to whoever have done this comprehensive picture and step-by-step pics.
Be patient and have the correct tools you'll get the job done with no dramas.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:32 PM   #125
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I'm in the middle of this on a 325xi right now, starter is off, wires disconnected, hands bleeding, but I can't get it out of the engine bay!? The drive shaft is in a brutal spot. Any tips?
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:33 PM   #126
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Nevermind, got it 2 minutes after posting that... haha. For others reading this in the future:

-Don't even bother trying this unless you get a flex head ratchetting wrench. It's worth whatever you have to pay. I can't believe some of you did it without. You're machines.
-On the XI no way the starter comes out the bottom. I still opened the bottom as you need to free that Vac canister and also for wiring/maneuvering the starter. I pulled the top of the air box and upper intake boot/MAF/Vac lines (broke the F connector of course). You have to jimmy it around the brake reservoir area down below, past all the heating hoses, then you can get it up.

What a PITA. Worst thing I've ever done in my life. My hands hurt soooooo bad. I have giant hands, and am a mechanical n00b though and could still do it, so anyone can... says the guy who still has to hook up the power wires and test it... haha.

I also love how most replacements are quite a bit longer... you know, since there is so much room to work with to start off.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:49 PM   #127
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Very nice report with info.
Thanks for taking the time.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:22 PM   #128
bob Lineman
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Just did this today on my wife's 330cic. It went EXACTLY as newtuner wrote.


From a teacher's point of view, you nailed it!!! You should get a job writing textbooks. BTW, if anyone reading this tries to do this, make sure you have plenty of Advil, or beer around... your hands are gonna hurt like hell.
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:11 AM   #129
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your hands are gonna hurt like hell.
They have been THROBBING all night! I wish I had the time to finish up the job today before the pain set in

Can anyone confirm the wiring? I read a post that seemed exactly opposite of what I thought. Yellow striped wire sits just counter clockwise of the big positive terminal (I think up when the starter is installed) and the plain black wire is just clockwise of the positive terminal (down when the starter is installed).
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:09 AM   #130
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They have been THROBBING all night! I wish I had the time to finish up the job today before the pain set in

Can anyone confirm the wiring? I read a post that seemed exactly opposite of what I thought. Yellow striped wire sits just counter clockwise of the big positive terminal (I think up when the starter is installed) and the plain black wire is just clockwise of the positive terminal (down when the starter is installed).
On my 2004 330xi Automatic:
1- Yellow black ( thin wire ) goes on smallest bolt
2- Black solid ( little thicker ) goes on small bolt (a little bigger) than no.1 above
3- 2 big bolts: one you don't touch it's attached to solenoid, and the other has two big power wires attached to it.

See picture below of starter face up when in the process of removing from top.
After removing two power wires on big bolt.

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I removed the starter all from above without removing the manifold. Actually all work from above.

Good luck

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-14-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:23 PM   #131
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Thanks! Had hit right. Phew. The problem was the + post on the new starter wasn't high enough and the large + connection was touching where the yellow wire goes, firing the starter as soon as the battery was hooked up. Put a nut on to space things up, and now it works, but about 1 in ever 4 starts I get a bit of a whirring/clicking, almost as if the starter isn't fully disengaged? Any tips? The thought of pulling it again makes me want to cry. Can I just leave it? It doesn't sound overly violent and usually only lasts a couple minutes. Unless there is something else I could have screwed up, but mechanically this repair is straightforward, its just a b*tch.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:04 PM   #132
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One last question for you guys (thanks again for all the help!). I realized I forgot to clip the fuel return line or whatever that is back onto the bracket on the starter bolt. Is this a big deal? Should I be getting back in there to clip it back on, or will it be ok?

As for my other issue, the last 3 starts have been totally fine. Weird. Fingers crossed, but would still appreciate input on that one as I'm sure I'll hear it again.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:33 PM   #133
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Unfortunately I'd want to see that line clipped in properly.
Unintended consequences of an unrestrained line can be the abrading of the line over time to the point of failure. Peace of mind dictates that it be fastened correctly.
How difficult would it be to tighten it in?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:33 PM   #134
b spot
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How difficult would it be to tighten it in?
If I give my hands a couple days to heal, not that bad. I just have to yank the cabin air filter housing and probably pull the dam that goes around the brake resevoir/booster. You're right, I'll sleep better with it clipped back in.

Last edited by b spot; 10-15-2012 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:36 PM   #135
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If I give my hands a couple days to heal, not that bad. I just have to yank the cabin air filter housing and probably pull the dam that goes around the brake resevoir/booster. You're right, I'll sleep better with it clipped back in.
You're not the only one who missed that, I broke the bracket in pieces in order to get access to the bolt from the top. Thanks for the reminder though Now it's about a month on my new starter but I have to go back and put that bracket for the fuel line in place. The problem is I can't locate the part anywhere, it's not listed anywhere on realoem.com neither the dealer has been helpful recognizing the part. I will probably end up building a custom one. Any insight on the part number for that bracket that hold the fuel line or maybe a helpful picture?!

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-18-2012 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:02 PM   #136
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Your not the only one who missed that, I broke the bracket in pieces in order to get access to the bolt from the top. Thanks for the reminder though Now it's about a month on my new starter but I have to go back and put that bracket for the fuel line in place. The problem is I can't locate the part anywhere, it's not listed anywhere on realoem.com neither the dealer has been helpful recognizing the part. I will probably end up building a custom one. Any insight on the part number for that bracket that hold the fuel line or maybe a helpful picture?!
Unfortunately I can't help you with a part number, but when I went back in that fuel line was hanging very, very close to its original position, and there doesn't seem like much that can cause danger to it back there unless you are working on the car.

My clip that fits in the bracket was a bit mangled, so it's not overly snug in there, but seems good enough.

If I was you I'd grab a cheap L-bracket from a lumber store (the sheet metal kind used for fence construction etc) and modify it with some snips and a drill to make a new one. Maybe just file down any sharp edges on it. It should do the job, you could even just zip tie the fuel line straight to the bracket.

An update on the starter noise (sorry for spamming the thread, I just know when I do this stuff I love finding someone that had my same issues and how they solved them. Noise is going. Did it only on maybe 3 or 4 starts. Maybe some grease just had to work around the pinion shaft, but it starts like a champ!
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:32 PM   #137
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Unfortunately I can't help you with a part number, but when I went back in that fuel line was hanging very, very close to its original position, and there doesn't seem like much that can cause danger to it back there unless you are working on the car.

My clip that fits in the bracket was a bit mangled, so it's not overly snug in there, but seems good enough.

If I was you I'd grab a cheap L-bracket from a lumber store (the sheet metal kind used for fence construction etc) and modify it with some snips and a drill to make a new one. Maybe just file down any sharp edges on it. It should do the job, you could even just zip tie the fuel line straight to the bracket.

An update on the starter noise (sorry for spamming the thread, I just know when I do this stuff I love finding someone that had my same issues and how they solved them. Noise is going. Did it only on maybe 3 or 4 starts. Maybe some grease just had to work around the pinion shaft, but it starts like a champ!
I'm glad that it's working just fine for you. On the other issue I do remember that the fuel line was bundled with a bunch of other cables from the top, I agree with you that it will never move out of its original location but I just want to put everything back to the original condition and to have a peace of mind. Last night I started building my custom made bracket using sheet metal after I made a small sketch (see picture below) what I could remember.
Attachment 474571
Hopefully this is how it looked like but I'm not sure though. Question, how did the clip attached to the fuel line looked like? ... I'm sure this one I can find in the part store and if not I can always use a plastic tie wrap. Thanks for your help trying to figure this thing out.
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Last edited by Mhnd; 10-19-2012 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:09 PM   #138
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Big hole is 10mm (starter bolt thread size)
Smaller about 3 mm (fuel line clip)
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This is the custom bracket/clip kit I decided to use. Hopefully it will be a help to someone else in the future.

Thanks.

Last edited by Mhnd; 10-19-2012 at 06:03 AM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:54 AM   #139
klixtokw
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Main computer re-program needed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by newtuner View Post
Step 20:
Now you can take your new Starter and hook it back up to the wires. It's a tight fit but I found if you have the gear end pointing up it will fit back in. Try not to force the starter in with the bolts. Seat the starter in place then slide the bolts on. I didn't have a Torque spec for these bolts, but I made sure they were tight. Make sure the electrical connections are tight you don't want them working loose. Here is a picture of what mine looked like, the problem was most likely due to all the Carbon build up. Plans are to rebuild my old one and have it as a back up.





Here are the tools I used, as you can see this repair can be done with mostly common tools and some time. It took me a day and a half to do this, but that was with not knowing what to take off or how to get to the part. I would say with this guide this DIY should only take 4 to 6 hours.



Step 21:
Once your done putting everything back together you can reconnect the battery cable. If you happened to open the doors while the battery was disconnected you will see the window will no longer pop down when you open the door or roll up when closed. You will have to reset this feature once the battery is reconnected. For each window roll the window all the way down, then all the way up. Hold the window button up for 20 seconds after the window has finished rolling up. This should reset the cracked window feature, just repeat for each window. The only thing left is to reset the clock, but that is in your owners manual. Have fun!!!

Let me know if I have missed anything or left anything out.
New turner AWESOME!!!!!
Man you have done all of us a great service and have done a great effort writing this DIY that is greatly appreciated. THANK YOU!!!!

Did you have to re-program the main computer with the original factory software to replace all the functions due to having no poer for such a long time?
I have an e46 325Ci and will be trying to do this but i'm afraid to lose all the programmed functions since I have a vert.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:55 AM   #140
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I benefited a lot from this Forum and the different DIYs that it offers and would like to contribute back to show my thanks and appreciation. The following thread contains a PDF document (DIY) that explains how to complete a starter removal on an XI model automatic all from the top and without removing the Intake Manifold.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=952329
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