Placing Jack Stands Under Car

haha you guys.

BTW, BMW mentions in several places to NEVER lift the car using the differential. So barnyard boys can put their capes on and soar like eagles to their nearest barnfest and share ideas amongst eachother.

Originally Posted by E46Mango

So lets say the above is true (which it's not) what's with the need for hipster lifting points? Why not use those things called "jack pads"? It even has the word "jack" in the name!

Oh brother. You're seriously going to argue that pinch welds are NOT a safe place to put jack stands? Really? Call any mechanic right now and ask them if pinch welds are okay to use. In fact, the other night I called BavAuto about this same question, and they said pinch welds are a valid jack stand location and jack point with an adapter.. They also said that even though the reinforcement plate square crushes, it is under the subframe and is more than enough to handle the weight of the car. They've got over 200 years of BMW experience. I trust their word.

What's the reason for hipster jack points? Because I can't find any other way to slide a jack stand under the rubber jack pad. That's why. I need a way to lift the car up high enough to put a jack stand on the rubber pad.

Whether you like it or not, that is a safe jack location, and pinch welds are also a safe jack location.

All it took was a few days, talking to some engineers and mechanics, and a little research to figure this stuff out.

It's not designed for jacking, but it can still work safely. That's all that matters. I don't care if I'm using something that it's not designed for: it's safe and it works.

You've yet to provide me with a compelling argument other than "BMW said so.". They've gotta save their own asses too - of course they're not goin to say "You can use these other points that aren't specifically designed for jacking but joe work anyway." They're going to say to use the exact places designed for it. The dealer does stuff by the book.

Originally Posted by Zell

Oh brother. You're seriously going to argue that pinch welds are NOT a safe place to put jack stands? Really? Call any mechanic right now and ask them if pinch welds are okay to use. In fact, the other night I called BavAuto about this same question, and they said pinch welds are a valid jack stand location and jack point with an adapter.. They also said that even though the reinforcement plate square crushes, it is under the subframe and is more than enough to handle the weight of the car. They've got over 200 years of BMW experience. I trust their word.

What's the reason for hipster jack points? Because I can't find any other way to slide a jack stand under the rubber jack pad. That's why. I need a way to lift the car up high enough to put a jack stand on the rubber pad.

Whether you like it or not, that is a safe jack location, and pinch welds are also a safe jack location.

All it took was a few days, talking to some engineers and mechanics, and a little research to figure this stuff out.

It's not designed for jacking, but it can still work safely. That's all that matters. I don't care if I'm using something that it's not designed for: it's safe and it works.

You've yet to provide me with a compelling argument other than "BMW said so.". They've gotta save their own asses too - of course they're not goin to say "You can use these other points that aren't specifically designed for jacking but joe work anyway." They're going to say to use the exact places designed for it. The dealer does stuff by the book.

Nope. Not buying it. Again, why are you trying to get creative and make up your own jack points? Do you open your door with a coat hanger? Fill your tires with garlic-infused air? Start your car by push-starting it?

Why are you even considering alternative methods for tasks which are so easily carried out by methods that are easily and readily verifiable as safe? Are you on a mission to create some sort of alternative jacking league?

Please.

Please. Lets go more off topic.

Originally Posted by E46Mango

Anything that crushes or deforms means your lifting platform isn't stable. Instability can result in injury or death. (or just plain old property damage.)

My advice is: don't.

Lifting the rear so high to get a stand under the front seems pretty dangerous though...imo

And i'm missing one of my rear jackpoints

Originally Posted by FenderGuy05

Lifting the rear so high to get a stand under the front seems pretty dangerous though...imo

Lifting any car in general in any way is potentially dangerous. You're talking one and a half tons at LEAST.

I've never encountered a problem. If you guys feel you have a better way, knock yourself out. Nobody is stopping you! Just proceed with caution and know that any mistake you make while lifting a vehicle (regardless of method) is your own doing.

Originally Posted by FenderGuy05

Lifting the rear so high to get a stand under the front seems pretty dangerous though...imo

I lifted my car today using Mango's method. I did this because last time I bent my front reinforcement plate using that spot. It worked, but I don't want to try it again. Anyway, Mango's method works, but it was sketchy at one point

First, I lifted the rear right and placed a jack stand under the front right pad. I then lowered the car onto the jack stand. Second, I lifted the left rear of the car. I lifted it to the limit of my jack and the front tire wasn't off the ground. I realized I was actually lifting the entire rear of the car instead of just the left side. Luckily, I merely had to pull up with about 30 lbf on the front fender and the car slowly tilted and put the right rear tire back on the ground (it was almost perfectly balanced). I put the jack stand under the left front, then I lowered the car. It was safe, but the seesawing I did was strange. I had to rock it back to remove that same jack stand later. With a full tank of gas, this would not happen probably, but neither the front or the rear of the opposite side will have much load on it until you lower the rear back down.

I would also recommend not applying the parking brake. Honestly, I would just put it in neutral w/ no brakes and double chock (front and back of the rear wheel) the wheel on the side opposite of your current lifting point. I recommend this because the rear suspension needs to be able to settle and the rear wheel needs to rotate to allow it to do this. If you leave any brakes on, then release them when the car is on the stands, it will shift itself backwards quite a bit.

My final conclusion on Mango's method is that it works just fine. The lateral forces on the jack stands are kept to a minimum provided you don't have on any brakes. I didn't lift the rear, but Mango just recommended the same place everyone else knows to use. As a side note, your jack needs to be capable of at minimum 16 inches of lift for this method to work. 16 inches at the rear will give you about 12 inches at the front. Luckily I could do 18 inches with the jack I bought.

I thought maybe I'd include some credentials though I won't prove my claim. I am a Mechanical Engineer who works in the automotive industry. I do have a very deep understanding of forces, both static and dynamic. In this scenario I simply visualized the applied forces and it seemed safe to me, so I continued (even with the seesawing action).