Wheel Bearing Job

Glory22 · 10-15-2012, 10:31 PM

I need to replace one of my wheel bearings in my 323ci with 185,xxx miles.

I'm planning on keeping the car till it dies!

What would you do, I can't imagine the stock wheel bearings lasting too much longer...would you:

Fix just the bad one
Fix both at the same time for preventative maintenance?

lucky_doggg7 · 10-19-2012, 04:05 AM

Replace both bearings. Since you it will be required to remove the kingpin, you might as well install this: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...ts/ES2225925/# because the entire suspension will be disassembled in any event. If you haven't replaced your dampers, they are sure to be blown out out so invest in some Bilsteins, or Koni's.

From the vendor's website the following is provided:

Control arms and brackets, tie rods, and stabilizer end links for a more complete front suspension rebuild
For vehicles with production date up to 11/2003
ECS Tuning's Level 2 suspension rebuild kit for the E46 addresses all the symptoms related to the included components in the front suspension.
Symptoms include a loose and imprecise feel to the steering, as well as excessive shaking and vibration through the steering that increases with speed and braking. Individuals may also experience squeaking, whining or grinding from the front when turning at slow speeds. Other symptoms include a knocking or "clunking" in the front over rough road related to the sway bar bushings and upper strut mounts.
With the proper tools, replacement of these components will take approximately 1 day.
Kit includes:
OEM BMW control arm assemblies (left and right)
OEM BMW control arm bushings
OEM BMW front stabilizer link
OEM BMW tie rod assemblies (left and right)
OEM BMW front strut mounts

cposk · 10-25-2012, 12:19 PM

I replaced my front wheel bearings without touching the suspension... Me explain why those need to be disassembled? (not saying they shouldn't be replaced)

subieworx · 10-25-2012, 08:54 PM

The op doesn't mention front or rear bearings. The suspension does not need to be changed if there are no issuers with it.

xfixkaos · 10-26-2012, 06:00 AM

True it doesn't but def worth looking at while u have it up. I did both my front bearings and tie Rods. Next is control arms.

But not to thread jack but how hard are the rear bearings to replace?

pawelgawel · 10-26-2012, 06:22 AM

OP. normally Id say do both sides. How long have you had it? Do you know if any other sides have been done?
I would just replace one right now. Don't touch the other side till it begins to show wear and asking to be replaced.
No point in spending extra cash and time on the other side if its good and/or if it was replaced already.

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Bimmer App

cityjohn · 10-26-2012, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawelgawel

I would just replace one right now. Don't touch the other side till it begins to show wear and asking to be replaced.

I agree. Unlike brakes and struts (a must); and headlights and taillight bulbs (recommended); wheel bearings can be mixed new/old with no consequence.

Glory22 · 10-26-2012, 08:21 AM

I originally wanted to change both rear wheel bearings only, since I want to keep the car for a while...figured it would be a smart idea while I was under the car and in the mood for the job.

What a PITA!! The half shaft was frozen into the hub and would NOT break free with any tools, even specialty tools. I needed to remove the entire trailing arm and spring, so the hub assembly could be brought to a machine shop and pressed out.

I now understand why you guys suggest only one at a time...it's a job!

Will I need an alignment now that I've removed the trailing arm?

10-15-2012, 10:31 PM	#1
Glory22 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 209 My Ride: 323ci View My Garage	Wheel Bearing Job I need to replace one of my wheel bearings in my 323ci with 185,xxx miles. I'm planning on keeping the car till it dies! What would you do, I can't imagine the stock wheel bearings lasting too much longer...would you: Fix just the bad one Fix both at the same time for preventative maintenance? Last edited by Glory22; 10-15-2012 at 10:32 PM.

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10-19-2012, 04:05 AM	#2
lucky_doggg7 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: OC Posts: 282 My Ride: 2005 M3 View My Garage	Replace both bearings. Since you it will be required to remove the kingpin, you might as well install this: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...ts/ES2225925/# because the entire suspension will be disassembled in any event. If you haven't replaced your dampers, they are sure to be blown out out so invest in some Bilsteins, or Koni's. From the vendor's website the following is provided: Control arms and brackets, tie rods, and stabilizer end links for a more complete front suspension rebuild For vehicles with production date up to 11/2003 ECS Tuning's Level 2 suspension rebuild kit for the E46 addresses all the symptoms related to the included components in the front suspension. Symptoms include a loose and imprecise feel to the steering, as well as excessive shaking and vibration through the steering that increases with speed and braking. Individuals may also experience squeaking, whining or grinding from the front when turning at slow speeds. Other symptoms include a knocking or "clunking" in the front over rough road related to the sway bar bushings and upper strut mounts. With the proper tools, replacement of these components will take approximately 1 day. Kit includes: OEM BMW control arm assemblies (left and right) OEM BMW control arm bushings OEM BMW front stabilizer link OEM BMW tie rod assemblies (left and right) OEM BMW front strut mounts

10-25-2012, 12:19 PM	#3
cposk Registered User Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Maryland Posts: 453 My Ride: 08' E90 M3 View My Garage	I replaced my front wheel bearings without touching the suspension... Me explain why those need to be disassembled? (not saying they shouldn't be replaced)

10-25-2012, 08:54 PM	#4
subieworx Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: cincinnati Posts: 63 My Ride: ZHP, 335, E53, E30 View My Garage	The op doesn't mention front or rear bearings. The suspension does not need to be changed if there are no issuers with it.

10-26-2012, 06:00 AM	#5
xfixkaos Registered User Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Philly Posts: 93 My Ride: 00' 328i View My Garage	True it doesn't but def worth looking at while u have it up. I did both my front bearings and tie Rods. Next is control arms. But not to thread jack but how hard are the rear bearings to replace?

10-26-2012, 06:22 AM	#6
pawelgawel Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: This is LONDON?? Posts: 791 My Ride: 330CI View My Garage	OP. normally Id say do both sides. How long have you had it? Do you know if any other sides have been done? I would just replace one right now. Don't touch the other side till it begins to show wear and asking to be replaced. No point in spending extra cash and time on the other side if its good and/or if it was replaced already. Sent from my SGH-I727R using Bimmer App

10-26-2012, 08:21 AM	#8
Glory22 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: New Jersey Posts: 209 My Ride: 323ci View My Garage	I originally wanted to change both rear wheel bearings only, since I want to keep the car for a while...figured it would be a smart idea while I was under the car and in the mood for the job. What a PITA!! The half shaft was frozen into the hub and would NOT break free with any tools, even specialty tools. I needed to remove the entire trailing arm and spring, so the hub assembly could be brought to a machine shop and pressed out. I now understand why you guys suggest only one at a time...it's a job! Will I need an alignment now that I've removed the trailing arm?