Revisiting an old issue.. Vibration/Jerk in the rear

^Yes, that needs to be replaced. The rubber is pulling away from the metal core that the bolt runs through.

I did that job this summer- everything went smoothly until I went to the parts store for literally 10 minutes for an exhaust stud and my buddy decided to "nudge" the bushing in the last few mm's with a BFH. The aluminum casing around the bushing snapped. He bought me a nice used TC. And is making me an awd go-kart with the other.

every time I see the subject heading I naturally think "well ask the jerk to get out"

good stuff though

Originally Posted by Kubica

^Yes, that needs to be replaced. The rubber is pulling away from the metal core that the bolt runs through.

I did that job this summer- everything went smoothly until I went to the parts store for literally 10 minutes for an exhaust stud and my buddy decided to "nudge" the bushing in the last few mm's with a BFH. The aluminum casing around the bushing snapped. He bought me a nice used TC. And is making me an awd go-kart with the other.

What symptoms did you have? Also how difficult was it to replace that thing?
How did you press it in? How long did it take?

I would just hate to replace this thing to come with a conclusion of nothing.

Originally Posted by bikesandcars

every time I see the subject heading I naturally think "well ask the jerk to get out"

good stuff though

What?

If the Jerk in the rear is causing the vibration I would kindly ask him to stop kicking the seat or exit the vehicle

Originally Posted by bikesandcars

every time I see the subject heading I naturally think "well ask the jerk to get out"

good stuff though

Lol.

Vibaration/jerk in the rear....sounds like my ex trying to get herself off...

Originally Posted by bikesandcars

If the Jerk in the rear is causing the vibration I would kindly ask him to stop kicking the seat or exit the vehicle

Sweet, thanks.

Originally Posted by Kubica

Lol.

Vibaration/jerk in the rear....sounds like my ex trying to get herself off...

Lol thanks for the input.

Still stuck with my issue..

Originally Posted by jeepo23

Still stuck with my issue..

Hey I'm having the exact same issue as you. Any new updates on this? Did you figure it out? I'm about to replace my transfer case mount and see if this solves my issue.

How about your center support bearing on the drive shaft. Just curious how many mile on the drive train? Also is there any up/down and side to side play in your front output flange on the TC. I suspect in my car that this is a cause of a vibration coming from the area you describe. Also be warned the TC rubber bushing is a beyatch. Anyone with advice on installing that.

Originally Posted by Sean McClellan

Hey I'm having the exact same issue as you. Any new updates on this? Did you figure it out? I'm about to replace my transfer case mount and see if this solves my issue.

No further luck.. still not fixed. Please let me know if your transfer case mount helps. I highly doubt it will to be honest.

What I have noticed lately however is tho, I have a rental for work so the BMW stays put a lot of the time. When I get back on the weekends and take it for a drive the first bit of the drive you can feel the vibration a fair bit. More than before, so this has to be something that is affected by the car staying put and colder climate. Once I'm into the drive 5-10minutes its not as noticeable.

So the car staying parked for a while, and the colder temperature seems to have an affect on this exactly as I described in the previous page somewheres.

Originally Posted by 325xittt

How about your center support bearing on the drive shaft. Just curious how many mile on the drive train? Also is there any up/down and side to side play in your front output flange on the TC. I suspect in my car that this is a cause of a vibration coming from the area you describe. Also be warned the TC rubber bushing is a beyatch. Anyone with advice on installing that.

The CSB was done like 5k ago sam with Guibo. The car has 217,000KM (135k miles) on it.

Do you feel the vibration in the front or in the rear? Because mine I'm 99% sure it's the rear end where its coming from.

Originally Posted by jeepo23

Do you feel the vibration in the front or in the rear? Because mine I'm 99% sure it's the rear end where its coming from.

I'm feeling mine in the rear. It's the exact same symptom as yours: I can clearly feel the vibration from the rear through my driver's seat. None of my passengers can feel the vibration either. I have recently replaced my CSB and guibo about 500 miles ago. I'm putting my money on either the transfer case bushing or an imbalanced rear driveshaft. Either way I'll let you know what my findings are.

Originally Posted by Sean McClellan

I'm feeling mine in the rear. It's the exact same symptom as yours: I can clearly feel the vibration from the rear through my driver's seat. None of my passengers can feel the vibration either. I have recently replaced my CSB and guibo about 500 miles ago. I'm putting my money on either the transfer case bushing or an imbalanced rear driveshaft. Either way I'll let you know what my findings are.

Exactly my passengers think I am crazy when I tell them this. I had to get a buddy of mine to drive my car in order to realize I wasn't nuts.

I am starting to think its the driveshaft, but then this wouldn't be affected by weather. This would be constantly like this.

Because I know during the summer I do not feel it this bad, but now that its gotten colder and the car is actually parked for periods of time its quite noticeable.

Keep me updated!

It only does it in second gear between 2-2.5k revs? lol, that is so easily avoidable. Do what i do, always redline first gear and problem sold. I'm always above 3.5k in second gear, don't drive it like a hearse.
I currently have five different annoying rattels and squeaks, yet they dont bother me because i drown them with engine noise.

Originally Posted by e46alfonso

It only does it in second gear between 2-2.5k revs? lol, that is so easily avoidable. Do what i do, always redline first gear and problem sold. I'm always above 3.5k in second gear, don't drive it like a hearse.
I currently have five different annoying rattels and squeaks, yet they dont bother me because i drown them with engine noise.

LMAO? To each his own. So you do this first thing in the morning when you start the car and its -10C out and the engine is cold you rev'er up to 3.5k huh?

Keep the revs low for 5 min until it warms up, but after that hellll yea rev it. Youll have problems if you don't rev high.
You sound like the type of guy who lets his car warm up for 15 min before driving it . Aint nobody got time for that.

Originally Posted by e46alfonso

Keep the revs low for 5 min until it warms up, but after that hellll yea rev it. Youll have problems if you don't rev high.
You sound like the type of guy who lets his car warm up for 15 min before driving it . Aint nobody got time for that.

LOL! Nah not really but like I said to each his own. I can see your the type of person that remedies his issues by turning up his music to not hear any bangs/squeaks or rattles. So let's get back on topic.

..I'll get this back on topic! I haven't seen any updates, anything new?

I would like to add that your drive shaft u-joint could be bad.. did you look over it? A bad u-joint will cause these issues.. I have the same issue, but haven't replaced anything yet. I think I may just replace the entire drive shaft right away to avoid false diagnosis. My guibo looks good, I'll drop the exhaust and look at the u-joint and CSB. I'll keep updated, but I would recommend testing your u-joints by lifting your car, putting it in neutral and trying to twist your drive shaft. If it has ANY play in the u-joint, that is supposed to indicate failure.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX

It's not the drive shaft or the vibration would be more constant. It's prob the u-joints. Don't you have a tuner you could go to? I'm all for fixing it yourself but this is a little ridiculous don't ya think.

Well, in our cars the u-joints are welded to the drive shaft.. you must replace the entire drive shaft. Only other way is to pay an Indie to cut them out and bolt on greasable, open-end u-joints, or have them try to weld new ones on.. both most likely won't work.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX

This is what im thinking about doing:
http://driveshaftspecialist.com/Impo...FZGiPAod6TkA6w

They apparently refurbish the u-joints, CSB, and CV joints. All you need to do is send yours in so they can refurb yours to sell to someone else. Also, 1 year unlimited mile warranty!

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX

Originally Posted by Weste46

..I'll get this back on topic! I haven't seen any updates, anything new?

I would like to add that your drive shaft u-joint could be bad.. did you look over it? A bad u-joint will cause these issues.. I have the same issue, but haven't replaced anything yet. I think I may just replace the entire drive shaft right away to avoid false diagnosis. My guibo looks good, I'll drop the exhaust and look at the u-joint and CSB. I'll keep updated, but I would recommend testing your u-joints by lifting your car, putting it in neutral and trying to twist your drive shaft. If it has ANY play in the u-joint, that is supposed to indicate failure.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX

Yah wish I had known to look at my driveshaft ujoints while doing the guibo and CSB. Since it requires complete exhaust removal to just get to it to inspect I guess I'll have to wait.

But how exactly then is my thing affected by temperature? During the summer months I didn't feel it, now that it's gotten colder and I certainly feel the vibration a lot more.

Originally Posted by AudiEtr

It's not the drive shaft or the vibration would be more constant. It's prob the u-joints. Don't you have a tuner you could go to? I'm all for fixing it yourself but this is a little ridiculous don't ya think.

What's ridiculous? Taking it to a tuner and have them check the things I can check? I've asked around and took the car into the garage only to come back with saying couldn't find it. They also assumed before that it was the rear axles so I took care of that and now nothing still got the issue.

If I had taking it to my tuner and let him do my axles I would of walked away $$$ poorer only to still have the issue, so no I don't think its ridiculous trying to find the problem myself.