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Old 09-24-2012, 05:44 PM   #381
AlexD330
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If I just have an intermittent p0174, only 174, not paired with the 171. What would you think about that? I've changed both the upper and lower boots, sprayed the maf probably 8k ago, new plugs 3k ago, etc. I haven't changed the disa or looked at it but do you think this could only effect bank 2? Or is maybe an injector clogged?

Ay ideas?

Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:44 PM   #382
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:56 PM   #383
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Blown DISA diaphram and/or broken SAP vacuum hose can cause a bank 2 problem. Not sure if the 2003 330 has the MAF for the SAP or the vacuum controlled SAP like the 323/325?

Also check the CCV lower oil return line as well. Sometimes your O2 sensors are not the same sensitivity so you can only trigger a lean condition on a single bank.

Simple answer for many of the typical problems is vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks!
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:06 PM   #384
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I had these symptoms before doing the VANOS seals over a year ago. Ever since then, it progressively got worse with the surges during accelerations and now idling it bounces up and down. VANOS helped a significant amount, but soon after, it just started stuttering and accel was awful. Last month, the fuel filter was replaced, and one coil pack replaced as well. It worked great for about a week or so after that and the problems returned.

One thing to note, upon using Techron multiple times in the fuel tank, the problems went away completely...until the tank got low or i refilled with gas. Techron no longer works as of about two weeks ago. I replaced upper and lower intake boots today, but that didn't do a thing. The worse part was I was able to pull off the smaller inlet tube on the lower boot with my bare hands without loosing the clamp beforehand.

Autozone codes ran back cylinder 1 and 3 misfiring, while coil 4 was replaced a month ago along with EVAP leak detection P0442. Fuel pump was replaced about 3 years ago and intake boot as well. I also found out last month from my mechanic that my SES/CEL was 'disabled'. It hasn't lit up in years. Turns out after dismantling the gauge cluster that someone (presumably the shop from 3 years ago that did the fuel pump replacement and intake boot) disabled the LED for the SES and covered the hole with a rubber cement substance. See picture below. I was furious, but there's nothing I can do now.

Anyway, any help on what to do next? Spark plugs, replacing 1 and 3 coils, new fuel pump? Really just looking to get this thing back in working condition so I can get rid of it.

141k miles
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:06 PM   #385
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Also, I've tried to push the car to redline once or twice, but as soon as it shifts, the transmission goes into hardcore limp mode.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:45 PM   #386
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Man, the dash with the silicon or epoxy is not good!!

VANOS usually seems to help warm weather performance from what I have seen.

You need to get all your codes read, log the codes, date & mileage. Clear the codes the see what codes pop first.

Sounds like the MAF may be suspect for the high RPM limp mode?

You may have a valve cover leak or other vacuum leaks if you are showing lean codes. You need to really check the CCV lower oil return line and vacuum hoses for the fuel pressure regulator.

Be careful about the misfire codes and changing coils, usually your coils will trigger other codes. What you really need to have is good spark plugs and good coil boots before you condemn coils.

Also sort your Evap code if it is still present.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:53 PM   #387
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Question about the MAF...

Is it a myth that disconnecting the MAF will do anything? Once I disconnect it, my transmission symbol comes up on the gear selection on the dash and limp mode is the only thing it does. I've cleaned it before, but I'm not sold on that as something that really helps.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:58 PM   #388
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Little update, after driving a little more today, the problems are now mostly at idle and take off. The power is mostly back after 3k RPM. But idle is rough and take-off is sluggish. DISA looked like the flap was fine, it had resistance on the flap when moving it and the orange O ring looked fine as far as I could tell, but it was definitely dirty around the seal.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:27 PM   #389
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Did the DISA hold vacuum? This is important.

Also disconnecting the MAF puts the engine fuel map in a fixed, slightly richer, program, so disconnecting the MAF many times covers up problems with vacuum leaks as it runs richer.

Also as you have seen, many times disconnecting the MAF may put the engine in limp mode.

Have you resolved the Evap code?

What codes does the engine have now?
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #390
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EVAP code has been there for years and no one was able to figure that one out yet. Haven't gotten a chance to run the codes, but I plan on cleaning the ICV tonight and possibly the O-ring/gasket on the DISA valve.
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:39 PM   #391
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EVAP code should be easy. Could be a simple as a bad gas cap. Only about 5 things could cause issues, EVAP solenoid, gas cap, vacuum hoses, charcoal canister or some cars have a EVAP pump. But most often the problem is gas cap, vacuum hoses or EVAP valve. Only other issue is if someone replaced the fuel pump and did not install the gasket correctly, but these leak fuel with a full tank.

Get your codes read and cleared, then see what codes pop first.
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:37 PM   #392
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Cleaned the ICV last night and changed the O-ring gasket on the DISA valve as well. Those helped a fair amount, but the idle is still very rough and take off is only slightly better. Still some stuttering on WOT, but the power feels like it is back compared to before. I bought a new gas cap a year ago, as well. Where is the EVAP solenoid located? Should I steer clear of buying a new fuel pump right now?
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:35 PM   #393
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Should always buy a new fuel pump regardless. Same for the fuel filter and fuel pump relay.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:26 PM   #394
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I'm having an issue with my 2003 330i ZHP.

Current mileage is 210xxx

Maintenance (might be missing a few things, let me know if you suspect anything that I forgot to put)

- Spark plugs 170k
- Engine air/cabin filters 207k
- ICV, TB, MAF, DISA cleanup 208k
- Intake boots inspected for cracks 208k
- O2 sensors 200k
- Battery 1 month
- Fuel filter 170k
- VANOS 170k
- VCG 170k
- Cooling 170k

I was told that the following were done at 155k but I don't have any receipts: fuel pump, CVV w/ hoses, ignition coils, starter. CCV checks out on the "plastic bag over oil fill hole" test. No lights on dash. I have no records on alternator and voltage regulator, so I plan to replace them in the near future as I'm seeing some very minor headlight flickering at idle. DISA didn't have any loose part and seemed pretty recent - was replaced between 120 and 140k under recall.

Car has no mods except from Borla exhaust and 3.46 differential.

When my car sits for more than 2 hours in relatively warm (65-70F) environments, the idle jumps up and down like this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/52v04zw6eo...%2027%20PM.mov

On 'warm' starts where the car ran within the last 2 hours, it's super smooth: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qpx31xli4q...%2044%20PM.mov

Notice how the red oil light stays on longer in the 1st video than in the 2nd. What do you guys think ? I've been trying to diagnose this since August, and now that the maintenance is pretty much up-to-date I don't know where to look next.

Let me know. Thanks a ton for your help.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:07 AM   #395
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:30 AM   #396
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Personally your problem is not really that bad. I know you would like the cold start to be like the warm start.

With the kind of mileage you have, I would expect possibly a lot of carbon build up on the back of the intake valves. Dry carbon on the back if the intake valves and in the intake path acts as a sponge to lean out the initial cold start fuel mixture until the carbon is fuel saturated again, then on immediate restart the problem will not usually be there. I used to see this back in the late 80's where some of the GM V6 would start and stall on once, then upon restart, they were fine. We used to trick the coolant sensor to enrichen the mixture for start up and the stalling would not happen. Walnut shell blasting the intake valves with the head still on was one solution along with different fuel additives.

The problem with higher mileage engines is the valve seals start to leak oil down the valve stems, then the carbon is hard to combat.

You should see how the Audi/VW 1.8 motors with 3 intake valves are on cold start!!

Although claimed you cleaned the DISA, if the DISA is original, it needs to be replaced. The DISA O-ring is a big leak spot and the DISA diaphragm also leaks.

You may also have a leaking intake where it meets the cylinder head.

Unplug the MAF and see how it starts cold. Unplugging the MAF will trigger a MAF code, as expected, however, it will force the engine to run in a slightly richer fuel map which may cover up your issue??

But in the big scheme of things, you are dealing with a very minor problem that will be hard to isolate.
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:26 PM   #397
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Wow, thanks for the super detailed answer!

Yeah I'm really not prioritizing this as it doesn't affect anything. Only thing that scares me is that it seems to take a bit longer to build oil pressure, and I don't want to wear out the engine.

The DISA isn't original, as I said it was replaced under the ZHP 4k rpm power dip recall - prior to updating DME's, they replaced DISA. Current DISA has about 50k miles on it and didn't have any loose parts when I took it off. What are the symptoms of a worn out DISA ? Car accelerates super smooth through all the RPM range and idle is basically flawless apart from those cold starts.

I tried your MAF suggestion after the car had sat for 24h and it still had that rough startup. I'm leaning towards a leaky fuel injector, so I'm gonna pull the fuel rail in the next few days and check that out. Would putting key to pos 2 without starting (to prime the fuel pump) make a leaky injector drop a bit of fuel ? How else can you test this ?
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:27 PM   #398
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The DISA O-ring is crap on the 325/330 DISA. If the DISA falls out of the intake, replace the O-ring. See the first link in my signature, DISA section.

As for oil pressure, engine idle is not really the issue, you do have a lot of miles, however, how much sludge was in the engine when the valve cover was off??

You may need AutoRX?? Also what weight oil are you running?

Cracked valve cover or leaking valve cover can be an issue as well.

I doubt you injectors are leaky or at least this likely will not be your problem. But replace all the injector and IAT O-ring when you are in there.

You may also try the Brakleen test. I found a leaky intake on a Chevy V6 that had cold start issues after thinking I had leaking injectors, replaced a few, same issue. Started car, still ran rough, frustrated I had a can of Brakleen handy and started hosing the intake area. Engine speed up in a few spots, turned out to be a leaking intake gasket.

The intake gasket was actually rather high tech, silicon sealer printed neatly on the gasket, however, 5 or so years of the engine warming up, compressing the silicon and then heat setting the silicon in the compressed state, the silicon would not "spring" or expand back to fully seal the intake once the engine was cold.

Pulled the intake, $16 OE gasket set, problem solved!!! Wish I would have tried the Brakleen test first, would have saved me a lot of time, money and frustration.

What was interesting is once the engine worked past the initial unstable idle, 30 seconds or so, the Brakleen test was still able to pinpoint the leaking intake. I expected I could only find the problem in the first 10-30 seconds, but this was not the case.

Do not rule out compression and cylinder leakage test to make sure you do not have a major mechanical issue that you are not likely to want to fix or possibly a soft failed fuel pump as outlined in the 2nd link in my signature.

I doubt your MAF has anything to do with the problem, just thought it would be worth trying to pull the connector to see if there was any different.

The absolute best way to determine if you are running up against a lean condition is to spoof the coolant sensor to make the engine think it is 10-20 degrees colder with a resistor and see what happens. The problem is you cannot leave the resistor in the circuit as then engine will run rich all the time. I used to use Diesel glow plug sensors that screwed into the cylinder head and closed the circuit after a few minutes so the resistor was bypassed.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 11-02-2012, 06:50 PM   #399
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Has Auto-RX been proven or is it like Seafoam where most of the testimonials are people who seem high on placebo ? I've never actually seen under the valve cover - I bought the car with most "book" maintenance up to date. There are no leaks though, I verified when I changed my O2 sensors. I'm running BMW Castrol 5W-30. I bought the car with M1 0W-40 in it and it still had that issue. I verified all the intake boots when I cleaned the ICV and no cracks anywhere. My DISA is the updated P/N with the built-in o-ring, I haven't seen a way to replace that ? Fuel pump/filter were replaced 40k ago. I know engine compression/leakage can definitely play a part in that... Just checking on the usual routes right now. Only reason I'm thinking injectors is that the same happened to another 330 owner on zhpmafia, and that was the reason. How do you test those ?
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:57 PM   #400
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Last time I am going to state this, READ THE FIRST LINK BELOW IN MY SIGNATURE.

If you are using a smart phone you will not see signatures, you need to use a computer.

Once you are finished reading the first link in my signature for about the 3rd time, you will start to understand!

DISA built in O-ring seal is garbage!!

AutoRX is no Seafoam.

You might just want to replace your oil pressure sender first. I have had half a dozen cars with oil light/low pressure and every one of them was a bad sensor/sender. I even had one that would show no oil pressure for the first mile on cold start below 50F. I knew from the sound of the engine this was not the case. Once I hit the 1 mile mark the gauge jumped from 0 to the half way point. Changed the sensor after 2 years as I was lazy and it was hard to reach and no more 0 oil pressure on cold starts!
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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