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Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 10-31-2012, 11:09 PM   #21
rcsummers
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I run drilled and slotted rotors by StopTech and PosiQuoet Pads, and mine only squeak when their cold on early winter mornings. Other than that, no problems.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by rcsummers View Post
I run drilled and slotted rotors by StopTech and PosiQuoet Pads, and mine only squeak when their cold on early winter mornings. Other than that, no problems.
Do you remember what you paid for just the PosiQuoet pads?
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:19 PM   #23
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I just had those, they look dumb
DING DING DING! We have a winner for the "Brakes need to look cool, its alright if they don't work as long as they look cool" competition. Why would you install old brakes anyway? The whole point of brake work is to newify your brake system, and have better stopping power. This reminds me of the qutoe someone said here, More or less it was: As our luxury European cars gain age, what used to be crafted by world class engineers, is now being modified by high school morons.
PS. Any picture with your middle finger up, says nothing but "UnderAged."
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Spends $2000 on car DVD + stereo -> Running 25000 mile oil changes and 87 gas with blown shocks
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:22 PM   #24
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Just saying, I'm running slotted rotors, and akebono dustless. the OEM pads were driving me insane.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:27 PM   #25
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Stock BMW pads shouldn't squeak. Now if you have some aggressive track pads then yes, they'll make tons of noise until they are heated up.

You're quiet pads will be your street pads (even some street performance pads); Hawk HPS, Akebono Euro Ceramic, EBC RedStuffs, Mintex Red Box, and the like will be quiet during normal operation. If you need new pads, HERE is a link to my pads.

Due the the fact you bought used rotors, something to think about is usable thickness. When the rotors wear down they become too thin and are no longer fit for use, the minimum thickness should be stamped on the rotor hat.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:00 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by aahmed2016 View Post
DING DING DING! We have a winner for the "Brakes need to look cool, its alright if they don't work as long as they look cool" competition. Why would you install old brakes anyway? The whole point of brake work is to newify your brake system, and have better stopping power. This reminds me of the qutoe someone said here, More or less it was: As our luxury European cars gain age, what used to be crafted by world class engineers, is now being modified by high school morons.
PS. Any picture with your middle finger up, says nothing but "UnderAged."
You drive a 325i, settle down bro...

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Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
Stock BMW pads shouldn't squeak. Now if you have some aggressive track pads then yes, they'll make tons of noise until they are heated up.

You're quiet pads will be your street pads (even some street performance pads); Hawk HPS, Akebono Euro Ceramic, EBC RedStuffs, Mintex Red Box, and the like will be quiet during normal operation. If you need new pads, HERE is a link to my pads.

Due the the fact you bought used rotors, something to think about is usable thickness. When the rotors wear down they become too thin and are no longer fit for use, the minimum thickness should be stamped on the rotor hat.
Thank you! ok so if I get any of those "street pads" then that should eliminate the squealing that im having? And ill look into the rotor hat. Thanks again for the info and the link for the products.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:01 AM   #27
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The pads need to get hot enough to re-deposit on the rotor. You only need to turn them if they have too much surface deviation, as long as there are no grooves. Sometimes if I need to bed pads on a used rotor I give it a good brush with abrasive scotch brite just enough to scratch the surface up and break up the old surface coating.

My usual drill is to drive down a mile of steep hill riding the brake and holding the power on. (no speed really required.) or It takes me about 2 hot laps at the track to bed race pads. (6 miles ish) You need to get them hot, then cool them off, don't let the car sit keep moving, if at all possible don't apply the brakes for 10 minutes. This allows the coating from the pads to bond to the rotor. If you park a car with hot brakes (Track hot) it can warp the rotors.

BTW most high performance track level pads will squeak when cold.

My personel opinion many will differ: For normal driving Slotted/drilled rotors don't change stopping distance in most cases, they are better on track when you need more gas relief to keep the out-gassing from the pad from floating the pad off the brake rotor surface. I wont even use drilled rotors on track on the cars I maintain. Too many broken cars from cracked rotors. Porsche Brembo rotors are the best out there and they still crack. Slots work without the cracking issues.

I swap out from race to street pads on my play car all the time, I only swap rotors when they develop checking (micro cracking on the surface) or when they measure too thin.

BTW good high performance pads are about 200 bucks.. Good street pads about 100.. give or take and how hard you shop..

Cheers
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:22 AM   #28
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Calmed down a bit, and back to be helpful. Sorry if I offended you, but y'know. Anyway, since you ARE going to do a pad swap, I would suggest you get Akebono dustless, or just go to a parts shop, and get the highest quality pads there. They come with the pads and some anti squeak. pretty much squirt some on your finger, and rub it onto the BACK of the bad, like the part that doesn't touch the rotor. You should be squeakless. LOL I haven't wrote the word squeak in so long i forgot how to spell it. YMMV, but good luck.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:24 AM   #29
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Jordan - quick question when you work the brakes hard and heat them up does the squealing you're hearing go away? Just trying to figure out if instead of stock pad you tossed in some aggressive track pads my mistake.

And to answer you're question, if the squeal is in fact due to you have some seriously aggressive pads on the car then yes switching to a more street friendly pad will quiet the squealing.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:33 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx View Post
The pads need to get hot enough to re-deposit on the rotor. You only need to turn them if they have too much surface deviation, as long as there are no grooves. Sometimes if I need to bed pads on a used rotor I give it a good brush with abrasive scotch brite just enough to scratch the surface up and break up the old surface coating.

My usual drill is to drive down a mile of steep hill riding the brake and holding the power on. (no speed really required.) or It takes me about 2 hot laps at the track to bed race pads. (6 miles ish) You need to get them hot, then cool them off, don't let the car sit keep moving, if at all possible don't apply the brakes for 10 minutes. This allows the coating from the pads to bond to the rotor. If you park a car with hot brakes (Track hot) it can warp the rotors.

BTW most high performance track level pads will squeak when cold.

My personel opinion many will differ: For normal driving Slotted/drilled rotors don't change stopping distance in most cases, they are better on track when you need more gas relief to keep the out-gassing from the pad from floating the pad off the brake rotor surface. I wont even use drilled rotors on track on the cars I maintain. Too many broken cars from cracked rotors. Porsche Brembo rotors are the best out there and they still crack. Slots work without the cracking issues.

I swap out from race to street pads on my play car all the time, I only swap rotors when they develop checking (micro cracking on the surface) or when they measure too thin.

BTW good high performance pads are about 200 bucks.. Good street pads about 100.. give or take and how hard you shop..

Cheers
Dave
Thanks for the information Dave, the link that the ECS tuning guy gave me has a set of front and rear pads for like $140. I think im going with those and see how they do. I also just picked up a bit of anti squeal from pepboys and ill put that on there as well.

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Originally Posted by aahmed2016 View Post
Calmed down a bit, and back to be helpful. Sorry if I offended you, but y'know. Anyway, since you ARE going to do a pad swap, I would suggest you get Akebono dustless, or just go to a parts shop, and get the highest quality pads there. They come with the pads and some anti squeak. pretty much squirt some on your finger, and rub it onto the BACK of the bad, like the part that doesn't touch the rotor. You should be squeakless. LOL I haven't wrote the word squeak in so long i forgot how to spell it. YMMV, but good luck.
Not offended just shocked that you went off out of nowhere. It was odd, but all is fine! And ya the link that I was looking at are the Akebono euro ceramic! I think im going to try those out. I got the anti squeal and ill put some on like you said to hopefully eliminate the sound.

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Jordan - quick question when you work the brakes hard and heat them up does the squealing you're hearing go away? Just trying to figure out if instead of stock pad you tossed in some aggressive track pads my mistake.

And to answer you're question, if the squeal is in fact due to you have some seriously aggressive pads on the car then yes switching to a more street friendly pad will quiet the squealing.
Its usually under hard braking that the squeal will come out. Light breaking for a longer period of time doesn't make the noise. I think I had the stock pads, unless the previous owner put on aftermarket pads with stock rotors
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:36 AM   #31
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Humm... have you tried to re-bedded the pads? LINK to our pdf that talks about how to do that.

Stock pads shouldn't be squealing under heavy braking. Fading maybe, squealing not so much.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:40 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
Humm... have you tried to re-bedded the pads? LINK to our pdf that talks about how to do that.

Stock pads shouldn't be squealing under heavy braking. Fading maybe, squealing not so much.
Should I do that now? or after the new pads and anti squeal is on?
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:45 AM   #33
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If the pads have never been bedded with the rotors you can get some squealing. I'd do it with the current setup and see if that quiets your brakes down.
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:57 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
If the pads have never been bedded with the rotors you can get some squealing. I'd do it with the current setup and see if that quiets your brakes down.
alright I'm going to do it this weekend! thanks again
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:21 AM   #35
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First you need to turn the rotors (or resurface them) after that you install new pads and fallow the proper brake in procedure in order to bed in the brakes as you should... old rotors with old pads... I am surprised the car even stops...
Don't turn rotors that you'll use on the track fyi, less material+increased heat from high speed braking/frequent braking = bad news pretty quick. It will increase heat fade and can collect pad material build up more easily. I destroyed my oem rotors with just Hawk hp+ pads after turning them. I know this thread has been old for a while but figured I'd throw that out there for the ages in case future searchs for Porterfield pads like I did come up again.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:23 AM   #36
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Do you remember what you paid for just the PosiQuoet pads?
no idea. i got a sweet package deal from ICONZ when they were around.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:00 PM   #37
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I recommend ECS Slotted Rotors with PFC Z-Rated Pads. I have it all around my car and am very happy. Topbrakes.com has the pads at a decent price.

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Old 03-13-2013, 11:01 PM   #38
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no idea. i got a sweet package deal from ICONZ when they were around.
Your Iconz Kit was BimmerBrakes Kit...
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:52 PM   #39
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