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Old 11-04-2012, 10:28 PM   #21
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I remember Vik "Taza" used a Tilton triple carbon disk with some special release bearing. It was somewhere around like 6k if I remember correctly.

Definitely try finding out who UGR uses for their lambos, that would be a good starting place
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:25 PM   #22
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I remember Vik "Taza" used a Tilton triple carbon disk with some special release bearing. It was somewhere around like 6k if I remember correctly.

Definitely try finding out who UGR uses for their lambos, that would be a good starting place
Vac makes the release bearing for the tilton, and its I requirement with their triple carbons. Vik (Taza) will be the first to tell you he hates driving that clutch on the street.

Ps: the ugr Lambo's use tilton clutches. Those clutches are good for about 10k of average street driving at best. Then you need to rebuild them.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:53 PM   #23
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With HPF's access to John Reed, you'd think they could ask.

Just sayin...
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:01 PM   #24
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Yes, I started Googling and saw that Tilton triple was what Lambo FI uses.

I am liking the OSG that Marcus is using more and more. It is too bad the custom RC4 does not fit your car. There is not a ton of research on BMW's running 1200hp and 1000 ftlb of torque. That is an estimated figure Tom, isnt it? Your max so far has been 1000hp/800tq. Why build something so powerful that is just wont be any fun to drive(Tilton)?

You CAN always go auto like so many of the Supras and the HPF drag car. But you will loose so much in the drive train you will back where you started..maybe.. Rebuilding a super expensive, notchy clutch every 10k miles sounds like more trouble than its worth.

Did you ever PM that guy in Sweden who has so much power and runs a clutch? There may be an answer yet.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:30 AM   #25
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just curious, did you ever once take the car out on fully boogey (full boost with nitrous) before you took it back to SP?
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:13 PM   #26
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just curious, did you ever once take the car out on fully boogey (full boost with nitrous) before you took it back to SP?
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:53 PM   #27
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Nope Iboost 3 out of 5 was the highest which was about 22 psi and I tried nos but I had a random loud popping noise at 4k which I notified Larry about and he told me that's the traction control kicking in? I wanted to try Iboost 5 4/5 but the car also shakes to the point I don't feel comfortable going high speeds and im pretty sure it's the driveshaft, I want everything perfect before I go all out
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just curious, did you ever once take the car out on fully boogey (full boost with nitrous) before you took it back to SP?
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:11 PM   #28
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Nope Iboost 3 out of 5 was the highest which was about 22 psi and I tried nos but I had a random loud popping noise at 4k which I notified Larry about and he told me that's the traction control kicking in? I wanted to try Iboost 5 4/5 but the car also shakes to the point I don't feel comfortable going high speeds and im pretty sure it's the driveshaft, I want everything perfect before I go all out
Oh, right. The shaking. Yeah, drive shaft and solid motor mounts are not helping exactly. I guess keep the mounts while you swap out drive shafts.
I assume that is your plan? I dont blame you concerning the boost level.
Smart thing to do was hold back!
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:20 PM   #29
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the only reason I ask is because you need to be realistic on what power you will actually use the car with. Dyno queen is cool, but once you go to a big boy clutch that will hold 900 ft-lb of trq reliably, plain cruising around goes to shi1. Stop and go traffic can be a nightmare. Speaking from personal experience.

It coulda been traction control or you coulda been hitting a fault action. Only when I hit a fault action with my Proefi, does the car make loud popping noises because it is set for a hard cylinder cut. Solid motor mounts will not contribute to shaking. That is very concerning as something is way outta alignment/balance.

Good luck with your choice on clutches. I told myself when my clutch goes, a gear vendor equipped TH400 is going in.

Regardless, Larry will get everything perfect over the winter!!
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:40 PM   #30
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Ya I am most likely going to swap the oem drive shaft in unless they can fix my one piece drive shaft
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Oh, right. The shaking. Yeah, drive shaft and solid motor mounts are not helping exactly. I guess keep the mounts while you swap out drive shafts.
I assume that is your plan? I dont blame you concerning the boost level.
Smart thing to do was hold back!
Ya I feel you, but there's no way I'm putting a automatic transmission in my car... I am sure Larry will perfect the car over the winter
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the only reason I ask is because you need to be realistic on what power you will actually use the car with. Dyno queen is cool, but once you go to a big boy clutch that will hold 900 ft-lb of trq reliably, plain cruising around goes to shi1. Stop and go traffic can be a nightmare. Speaking from personal experience.

It coulda been traction control or you coulda been hitting a fault action. Only when I hit a fault action with my Proefi, does the car make loud popping noises because it is set for a hard cylinder cut. Solid motor mounts will not contribute to shaking. That is very concerning as something is way outta alignment/balance.

Good luck with your choice on clutches. I told myself when my clutch goes, a gear vendor equipped TH400 is going in.

Regardless, Larry will get everything perfect over the winter!!
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:58 PM   #31
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you still can shift a TH400 and even easier with a 4L80e

otherwise tilton triple carbon for 900ft-lbs
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:24 PM   #32
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Nope Iboost 3 out of 5 was the highest which was about 22 psi and I tried nos but I had a random loud popping noise at 4k which I notified Larry about and he told me that's the traction control kicking in? I wanted to try Iboost 5 4/5 but the car also shakes to the point I don't feel comfortable going high speeds and im pretty sure it's the driveshaft, I want everything perfect before I go all out
My one piece drive shaft shakes around 100mph+.. it shakes more on decel then accel.. it seems when its unloaded it shakes more. If I decel with the clutch engaged its not as bad as if I depress the clutch after a big 130mph+ pull.

I'll be swapping my two piece back in for the event... just as you mentioned, I also am not a fan of 'shaking' at 130mph+.

The loud popping you heard is the traction control when its trying to hard to maintain traction. If you're just loosing a bit of traction its only barely audible.. but if you blow the tires off it you can get a back fire/popping sound sometimes. If I run level 4 (30lbs) or more I get that same loud pop.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:22 PM   #33
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Hmmm, I never get a loud popping sound and I absolutely kill my traction control. 30 psi and hankook tires and I literally paint black lines in 3rd and 4th gear pulls. Car goes arrow straight though. Need to step up and get some decent rubber on this car. Also, I have the OS Giken triple and love it.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:56 PM   #34
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Hmmm, I never get a loud popping sound and I absolutely kill my traction control. 30 psi and hankook tires and I literally paint black lines in 3rd and 4th gear pulls. Car goes arrow straight though. Need to step up and get some decent rubber on this car. Also, I have the OS Giken triple and love it.
Weird, not sure why ours does the loud pop.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:36 PM   #35
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Weird, not sure why ours does the loud pop.
Maybe mine isn't dialed in?? All videos I have seen of the tc in action show short little strips of tire marks, mine lays solid lengthy strips..but the car pulls hard at the same time. Hell if I know, it is fun as **** though.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:12 PM   #36
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thats why I said you guys are probably hitting a fault condition causing a hard cylinder cut. Mine doesnt pop on TC either. I'd bet everyone one of us still has the stock TC values.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:43 PM   #37
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thats why I said you guys are probably hitting a fault condition causing a hard cylinder cut. Mine doesnt pop on TC either. I'd bet everyone one of us still has the stock TC values.
I threw a cam degree code last time it did the pop thing. :\
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:47 PM   #38
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chances are if u threw a cam code, your cams went to zero and your tune was way off triggering a fault in the proefi. but there mighta been something else like lean limit or something that caused the proefi to cyl cut which may have triggered a cam code.

sorry for the ot
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:33 PM   #39
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chances are if u threw a cam code, your cams went to zero and your tune was way off triggering a fault in the proefi. but there mighta been something else like lean limit or something that caused the proefi to cyl cut which may have triggered a cam code.

sorry for the ot
Thats very possible, I've been meaning to review my iBoost settings but haven't got around to it. I seem to be overboosting on iBoost 3+.. on iBoost 1/2 it seems to target boost properly.. but for iBoost 3 I am targeting roughly 25lbs.. but making close to 31lbs (then I let off.. maybe its a surge.. but its definitely exceeding the targeted kpa of about 275, and hitting around 320).
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