Suspension Refresh Guide. Information w/ complete parts list.

I just received my Meyle bushings and will be filling the voids with liquid urethane and setting them aside to cure. I've done similar fillings to engine mounts on FWD's with great results.

Originally Posted by zhp43867

Funny that you say they've never been better. With the amount of money you spend maintaining your car you'd be well on your way to having one.

Having said that, BMW's new cars are fvcked. BMW used to have the best mix of luxury/quality and sporty qualities, now they may as well be badged Lexus. Lexus isn't a bad brand if that's what you're looking for- but its not what I'm looking for. The F30 is shiit. The F10 looks like a Buick. both of them have steering lifted from something more akin to a Ford Fusion than sports car. They are incredibly imprecise and frustrating. Why did they delete both the fill and drain plugs on their new diffs? To make the cars disposable, not to keep them running. You are starting to seem less intelligent than I thought.

Since when were BMWs sports cars?? Start looking at BMWs for what they are. Not what you want them to be.

Originally Posted by E46Mango

Since when were BMWs sports cars?? Start looking at BMWs for what they are. Not what you want them to be.

because luxry track car

Originally Posted by E46Mango

Since when were BMWs sports cars?? Start looking at BMWs for what they are. Not what you want them to be.

E46 is a sports car, well to all of those who are fanatics out there. Because we most certainly drive them that way.

If I took basketball shoes and ran around a track, they would become running shoes.

Originally Posted by E46Mango

Since when were BMWs sports cars?? Start looking at BMWs for what they are. Not what you want them to be.

Since the E30 M3 and E46 M3 CSl, Z4M and 1M Coupe; these are all practical sports cars.

I said sports not sporty, but I made the point clearly before. Answer the previously stated questions Mr. Politician:

- If you like the F30 so much why aren't you driving one? Given the amount of money you've spent on your E46 you could afford one.
- Your choice of an E36 M3 manual and now an E46 330i manual do not align with your seemingly steadfast views. I see you in a Luxury Line Buick 328i... err I meant BMW.

So you've got the engine north of 3k and head into that curve. Can the Luxury Line 3er handle it? The car's initial reactions set off alarm bells. The body heels over and, if the pavement gets wavy, the nose also bobs considerably. Body motions are more tightly controlled in a Buick. But, what do you know, despite all the swaying and bobbing there's no weaving. The 3er adheres faithfully to your specified line.

How inspiring! Sign me up. I drove one just before I finalized my decision for my second E46. I could have one if I wanted. Guess what, I don't. It seems you are the one wasting your time on the wrong forum, and with the wrong car. I hear the F30s aren't selling too well, I'm sure a local BMW dealer would be more than helpful in assisting you with your newest mistake... err purchase.

Wtf? BMW's entire marketing line is "The ultimate driving machine". How is it NOT a sports car? Every BMW they have EVER made has been in some way a Sports Car, from the 116i to the 760iL, they have all been engineered with a measure of "sports" and "driving". Otherwise we would be driving Mercedes A-Class and S-Class (etc.), which are soggy buckets. Why do you think they refused to use FWD for so long?

It's like I had a guy at the local BMW Stealership try to tell me my Transmission was not designed to be driven in SPORTS mode because its not a sports car, that it was a luxury cruising car. Say wha..?

^Truth.

If the 3-Series is a sports car, then what's a Porsche 911? If the 3-Series is a sports car, then so is a Cadillac ATS, CTS, Lexus IS, Mercedes C-Class, Acura TSX. All sports cars... right?

And I'll largely ignore the trolling re the "Why don't you buy an F30." Just because I stand up for a car doesn't mean I will buy it. Otherwise I'd have to buy lots and lots of cars. Hell, I like all the cars mentioned above.

Originally Posted by Sweetness

E46 is a sports car, well to all of those who are fanatics out there. Because we most certainly drive them that way.

If I took basketball shoes and ran around a track, they would become running shoes.

I'll rent a minivan and run it hard on the nurburgring. Because sports car.

My fastest rental van ever rented.

This thread has been derailed. If mods see this, could you please clean it up?

I a little confused as to which bushings in the rear I need to change. Are these the lower and upper rear control bushings?

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10...FQSEnQodRR8Adg




and then it seems I need to also install




Is the below statent referring to the blue parts? what's the red part called?
Replace these at 60,000+ miles. Worn bushings will degrade rear-end stability and basically cause your rear wheels to excessively and unexpectedly to steer. You'll notice this especially when accelerating from a stop.

I'm trying to determine which bushings in the DIY the video below changed? did he just change the blue ones. Why would the red one not be changed at the same time?

Ok.I think I'm going attempt the RTAB . I'm reading about having to preload unless I get the powerflex.
Can someone tell me how the powerflex feels for normal day to day driving. I don't
want a hard feel every bump ride , will the powerflex give me this ride?
So preloading is pretty much tightening the center bolt while measuring from center hub
to top of fender which the DIY below explains. Doesn't seem like a big deal but if powerflex provides a good ride
I rather go with that. I was thinking of ordering the Meyle HD rears on BMA for like 18 bucks.

http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/b...placement.html

also the power flex below seem to not have that metal around the rubber bushing. I do see a slotted part.
where it be obvious where that slot needs to be lined up to the housing bracket?

http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerfl...-rtab-p91.aspx

Added differential bushing bolts because I'm about to do this job. Can someone recommend particular tools they've used for this job? (Pressing out the bushing and pressing in new ones)

Originally Posted by fanatic128

Ok.I think I'm going attempt the RTAB . I'm reading about having to preload unless I get the powerflex.
Can someone tell me how the powerflex feels for normal day to day driving. I don't
want a hard feel every bump ride , will the powerflex give me this ride?
So preloading is pretty much tightening the center bolt while measuring from center hub
to top of fender which the DIY below explains. Doesn't seem like a big deal but if powerflex provides a good ride
I rather go with that. I was thinking of ordering the Meyle HD rears on BMA for like 18 bucks.

http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/b...placement.html

also the power flex below seem to not have that metal around the rubber bushing. I do see a slotted part.
where it be obvious where that slot needs to be lined up to the housing bracket?

http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerfl...-rtab-p91.aspx

I may be late in my response but don't let the preloading thing put you off one bit. I overthought it for a couple years and when I actually went to do the job I realized it was largely paranoia. Just realign the carrier in the general angle it came out (mine in particular lined up PERFECTLY with a line on the trailing arm.) You'll have to rotate the bracket on the trailing arm slightly before applying final torque otherwise once you torque it down, the bracket will rotate slightly causing the final angle to be off. You'll see what I mean when you actually do it. no biggy!

Originally Posted by fanatic128

I a little confused as to which bushings in the rear I need to change. Are these the lower and upper rear control bushings?

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-10...FQSEnQodRR8Adg




and then it seems I need to also install




Is the below statent referring to the blue parts? what's the red part called?
Replace these at 60,000+ miles. Worn bushings will degrade rear-end stability and basically cause your rear wheels to excessively and unexpectedly to steer. You'll notice this especially when accelerating from a stop.

I'm trying to determine which bushings in the DIY the video below changed? did he just change the blue ones. Why would the red one not be changed at the same time?

Yes the red ones are the trailing arm bushings. The other bushings don't see the same forces/load/wear as the trailing arm does since the trailing arm bushing is at the end of a long arm. The other bushings are typically lifetime but is good to replace them anyways as you approach 200,000 miles. They require a special tool set and is best to do when the entire subframe is down. It's a big nasty job.

Ask CPOSK:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=914098&page=2

Can a mod please sticky this as with the cooling system guide? Things like this are great for quick reference for anyone who's looking to refresh their car or for their own knowledge. Granted, cooling system threads pop up every day irrespective of Mango's other sticky so... ehhh. Feels like I'm accomplishing nothing by posting this. *Shrug*

Originally Posted by Cyanide72

Can a mod please sticky this as with the cooling system guide? Things like this are great for quick reference for anyone who's looking to refresh their car or for their own knowledge. Granted, cooling system threads pop up every day irrespective of Mango's other sticky so... ehhh. Feels like I'm accomplishing nothing by posting this. *Shrug*

Thanks for the nice words and recommendation. I think Jake would say "there's too many stickies." He's probably right.

You are right though... every time I need a part number for myself or for someone else, I go to my own threads.

Mango, I've got a whole list of suspension parts to do on my 323i. Tell me what you think:



Also, what do you recommend for springs? I've been thinking about using OEM, but I wouldn't mind something slightly lower for a better look. Thinking H&R or Eibach. I still have to add the rear shock reinforcement plates and the strut reinforcement plates as well. For some reason when I type the part numbers in they don't show up on the website there.

Looks like I would need a shock/strut combo that accepts lowering springs, and the Bilstein Touring isn't one of them. I'll stick with my current springs. Going to be ordering all of this pretty soon. Looking forward to getting it on my car.