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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 11-03-2012, 05:11 PM   #21
Nico16
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Yup
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:14 PM   #22
dwtaylorpdx
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Idle should be under 1000 you have a vacume leak or you have the throttle cable too tight...

Cheers
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:16 PM   #23
Solidjake
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Idle should be around 650 or so
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:16 PM   #24
Nico16
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Yup, that's what it is, the cable is too tight, and its fix already, thanks
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:17 PM   #25
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Nice
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:25 PM   #26
Nico16
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Thanks guys
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:58 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico16 View Post
Hey guys, it's done. Thanks for all the advice, after 7 hours of pain plus adjusting the throttle cable, I'm idling at 2000rpm. The good part is I fixed it.
Good job man!!
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:45 PM   #28
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Hey guys- just wanted to add a thought for anyone else who is going to tackle this project- when I did mine I also had Vanos seals and aggregate oil housing on the list as well- I did the vanos a few weeks back while I did my CCV- my thoughts were this:
I did an oil change at the same time to make sure my oil was fine after the CCV went- this also helped with the vanos because I drained all the oil out- while there is still oil in the vanos pistons the amount in and around was less- I ran outta daylight when I tackled this project so I left the aggregate oil housing for another day- today I did my oil housing - if you look at any DIY ( one really good one on YouTube- PM me if You want the link) you have to remove the alternator ( belts were done at this time too) and once the aggregate housing is off...the CCV is perfectly exposed!!! That bottom drain tube which is a bi***h to put on ( even with bavauto's DIY tips on putting it on first and rotating it) if I had done the aggregate first I think the CCV would have taken half the time- usually the aggregate craps out around the same time-( mine was brittle as hell) so my advice after this novel is to just do the aggregate oil filter housing gasket at the same time you do the CCV it's $5 and even tho it takes a little to do having that area open will make the CCV a breeze- hope this helps anyone in the future!!!
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:45 AM   #29
FastCHAZ
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hey about how much was the damage done to your wallet after fresh ccv hoses?
im looking at replacing mines also. i actally have a list of things
to do since im almost at 140k now.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:59 AM   #30
Mcbridges11
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hey about how much was the damage done to your wallet after fresh ccv hoses?
im looking at replacing mines also. i actally have a list of things
to do since im almost at 140k now.
I paid 179 from bavauto for their cold weather kit- CCV included- hopefully the extra insulation helps because fitting that in is a wanker of a job- for just the hoses you're looking at $50-$60
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:14 PM   #31
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Not sure if you started already, but before removing the existing lines, mark with a silver sharpie where the connectors meet (while it is in the lock position) so when you put on the new lines it can at least guide you. This helped me when I connected the "canister" looking part. No bleeding for me =) Take your time.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:26 PM   #32
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Doing my CCV right now

Figured I would post here since OP received good tips and I have questions as I am doing my CCV right now.

It was cold (felt like low 60's)here in Fort Myers, Florida this morning so my fingers were not working right and I got a boo boo/1 band-aid so far.

Took some pictures and have some questions(I tried to edit pictures with information)

1. Is there any other substance we can use to wrap the hose on top of intake manifold since it turns into a brittle crumbled mess?

2. I have pic of I believe brake/vacuum line-should that seal tight? It popped off and goes back on but I can easily move it and it comes apart again. I can't tell if it had a glue like substance that sealed the 2 together.

3. I did not have a o-ring on the bottom of my dipstick! Future readers may want to have one handy.

4. Even though I did a visual of my upper and lower intake boots/once removed they showed me holes!!

5. With stuff removed(see pic)where is the other vacuum lines behind the engine I should inspect?

6. I ended up cutting the hoses to remove the ends/made it easier as the quick release stuff was tight!!!

7. What should I check for to determine if I need to replace the intake manifold gasket???

8. Doing OHFG while in there.

I know BMW and its R&D team is great but these oil separator hoses are flimsy. Obviously they last xxx thousands of miles. Wish I could extend the lines(with a different type of hose) to an alternate spot in engine bay but that is another thread.

Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:48 PM   #33
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Did you buy the OS as set? Or just the valve?
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:00 PM   #34
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6. I ended up cutting the hoses to remove the ends/made it easier as the quick release stuff was tight!!!

7. What should I check for to determine if I need to replace the intake manifold gasket???
I know BMW and its R&D team is great but these oil separator hoses are flimsy. Obviously they last xxx thousands of miles. Wish I could extend the lines(with a different type of hose) to an alternate spot in engine bay but that is another thread.

Thanks!
Wish we knew the mileage on your car so we had some perspective.

There is a DIY for removing the CVV. It replaces it with an oil can.

Unless you have problems, leave the intake manifold gasket alone. Nasty.

Hoses could be tougher, true. But with 88K miles on my car, as an exercise I removed all the old hoses without damaging a one. Could have reused them in a pinch.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:36 PM   #35
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Hey Stinger9, I am I believe just under 195k/2001 330ci <--- probably why the hoses were so brittle.

I have read numerous diy's on the oil can; I was thinking more along the line of different hoses. I even stopped by and checked out some Aeroquip hose(on my way to dealer-he matched prices for me on parts I needed) to see if I could at least replace the lower hose but the BMW specific fitting has me stumped. 3/8 socketless hose was $4.92/ft; I don't know jack about hose/pressure etc but figured I would learn a bit.

I know the BMW hoses have been researched and serve the purpose for the most part. I would like for each hose I have put in over the years to replace it with a higher quality hose/different color if the cost wasn't too much more than oem product. (of course PSI/type/fitting/etc etc )
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:08 PM   #36
Nico16
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Mine 150k on the body and 75k on the engine
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:29 PM   #37
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Hey Stinger9, I am I believe just under 195k/2001 330ci <--- probably why the hoses were so brittle.

(of course PSI/type/fitting/etc etc )
Any hose would work as the pressures are inconsequential. As long as it stands up to the heat of being in the center of the engine cradle there.
Fittings and connecting things in the tight spaces is the bugger.
Relax, put in oe hoses, and cruise your way to the end of life of your car because that's how long they'll last.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:04 AM   #38
love2drive330CI
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Nico16--I purchased the whole kit/all hoses included. Local bmw dealer priced matched so I got a good deal.

Thanks Stinger9--for the past 20+ years I have had to do job improvements/cost analysis etc...to the point that everything I look at my brain goes through the motions of what ifs/how to's etc. Appreciate your responses.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:15 AM   #39
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Engineers do the same thing.
Blessing or curse?
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:18 AM   #40
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Bavauto has a great DIY video. the vid is very comprehensive.

the only advice I have is that if you have an M52TU then your CCV needs a vacuum hose that connects from the CCV to the fuel rail. If your car is an M54 then the CCV vacuum nipple will be pluuged.
all CCV comes with the vacuum port but will be plugged up so you just have to remove the rubber plug.
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