$5 Alternative for Lock beep

Double post for content.

I redid the mod today, and what I did this time was (using the Piezo Siren 273-079 from Radioshack) I soldered a spade connector on the black and red wire of the siren. I also took both of the mating spade connectors that are currently not used, heated up the plastic casing of the connector with the soldering iron, and melted it off - leaving only the metal connector behind. I opened up the now-exposed portion of the currently unused part of the spade connector so I could easily crimp this on the wires on the connector on the car (wow lots of words!) Then behind the connector on the car, I stripped away about a 1/2" of both wires used (respective Hot and Ground connections) and crimped the spade connectors onto those wires. The spade connectors I just crimped were the ones I melted the plastic off. To finish up, I just slipped the spade connectors together and I had a hardwired but REMOVABLE siren that won't fall out in two weeks.

I mounted the siren inside where the connector was. This protects it very well from water. Its a bit quiet this way, but I don't mind. Others may want to add a second 102dB siren 273-079 and mount it in the same fashion. The real advantage of this procedure is you still get a hardwired siren instead of sticking it loosely in a plastic connector, AND you can remove it easily by simply pulling the spade connector apart (well both spade connectors, one on the black wire, one on the red wire).

Originally Posted by snitzl3

just tried this, with the same results as you, except for me i only get a good sound when i have the red hooked into the top left and black hooked into bottom right which is a solid brown wire, once i hook those in its a constant chirp no matter doors locked or unlocked. One thing i did notice is when i plug in the wires like the diy says, and once i lock or unlock the door the buzzer chirps very very faintly, like its not getting enough power. So looks like i might need a relay of some sort....however im too lazy and put everything back together, will try it later if i feel like it

Is there a solution to this problem? I'm having the same issues. My lights flash upon lock and unlock, and I've got the blinking clown nose. Still only produces a faint faint sound when I lock and unlock wired like the diagram, and a constant loud sound when wired like cowspoo's way.


Edit: Turns out it was the buzzer itself. I thought because it had managed to give a constant chirp when rewired it wasn't at fault, but I stand corrected. Went to Radioshack and bought the 102 db instead of the 90 db I had and guess what? It works like a charm. Wonder if it had to do with the fact that the 90 db buzzer had a gray wire for positive instead of red?

So I have a 2003 330xi, fairly stock, had it since 2005, and still get compliments often on it. I read about this lock beep mod. Yes my corners flash along with clown nose on lock and unlock. Had it activated when dealer was repairing melted wiring harness on tail light. But no beep. Trunk says per-wired for BMW security, but no beep. Figured was due to no alarm. No worries. Then I saw this and thought why not. $5 and 45 mins. I got both to spare. Got the 273-079 piezo buzzer from Radio Shack after work and got started. All went well until I pulled out the alarm harness. It wasn't wired with the same color wires. Top left red with black stripe. Bottom left blue with black stripe, top right, solid brown, bottom right black with red stripe. I tried same hole placement as the DIY showed and got nearly in audible two beep on unlock, nothing on lock. Then i opened door, turned key in ignition, put front window down, removed key, shut door and locked with key fob. I reached in to simulate a break in and hit e lock button. Nothing noise wise. But then when I went to remotely lock again, I got nothing. I opened the door, and the key in ignition buzzer was on but key in hand. Now every time drivers door is open, get key in ignition buzzer, and e remote lock/unlock has only worked three out of 20 or more attempts.

What did I do? Could it be a fuse? But if so, would not work at all did my reaching inside thru window somehow trigger something. Car has no alarm. It has never once failed when using keyfob to lock unlock. Has never made the key in ignition before either.

So now not only do I still not have a lock beep, (which is like $6.50 now) I no longer have keyless entry either. I have to put e key in the little tiny slit in the door like a schmuck and feel like an idiot because I am to blame.

Any help is really really appreciated. I've read this thread over and over. Some have said the two are coincidental, not related. They are 100% related. So about my wiring harness colors, what do I do. I tried diff configurations. I hooked e buzzer up to my cordless drill battery and it is not at fault. I should try to test current on the wires, and see what voltage ey put out I suppose. Could I have dislodged something while putting the cabin filter housing back? Help please. Please help.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by tranceasia8

Easiest way to test it is to roll down the driver side window. Arm the car, reach in and either unlock the door by pushing the button or just grab the handle. The doors should unlock, just open it and it should go off.

I did the put the window down and reach in to press the unlock button, and opened the door from the outside. Got nothing. Used key fob to lock again, and now it stopped working. Had car 7 years and had never once, ever failed to lock/unlock and flash the corners. So I'm freaking out and open the door and the key in ignition buzzer starts buzzing. Key is in my hand. Shut door, buzzer stops. Open door, buzzer on. Oh, and the mod never did work, AND NOW I REALLY FEEL DUMB because key fob and ignition buzzer thing is a result. Any ideas?

I did this DIY a few weeks ago. I LOVE it. I paid $6.50 for a random piezo buzzer. The unlock double chirp is very audible, but the locking single chirp is very faint. Any suggestions? I'm thinking I'll buy another buzzer with a higher DB rating.

OK Guys... THIS NEEDS A RELAY! For one it trips a fault in the GM5 that the siren wire is short circuited. These piezos may not be enough current draw to do permanent damage but connecting a real siren actually makes the windshield wipers go off when the alarm is triggered! The siren wire is a logic wire designed to run a relay in the factory siren, not to sink the current required to drive the alarm. Thats why that brown ground wire is in the harness. I just picked up a $5 SPDT "PC relay" from radio shack to fix this install on my brother's car.

Okay I tried this set up and it worked, but then all of a sudden my wipers went off and the clown nose stayed on, anybody have an idea?

*edit Got everything hooked up and now my clown nose doesn't light up at all and there's no beep from the buzzer. The parking lights still flash just now clown nose. Did the damn thing un code itself some how? I'm at a loss...

Originally Posted by USAF_BIMMER

Okay I tried this set up and it worked, but then all of a sudden my wipers went off and the clown nose stayed on, anybody have an idea?

Read my post right above yours...

Do you have a part number and a wiring diagram for it? Thanks

Originally Posted by thefrog1394

OK Guys... THIS NEEDS A RELAY! For one it trips a fault in the GM5 that the siren wire is short circuited. These piezos may not be enough current draw to do permanent damage but connecting a real siren actually makes the windshield wipers go off when the alarm is triggered! The siren wire is a logic wire designed to run a relay in the factory siren, not to sink the current required to drive the alarm. Thats why that brown ground wire is in the harness. I just picked up a $5 SPDT "PC relay" from radio shack to fix this install on my brother's car.

So how exactly do you wire this relay?

I'm gonna guess you went with a 1 amp SPDT Moro relay, because that's the only $5 pc relay they had, only question is how did you wire it into the buzzer and the connected for the alarm?

Good news I found this today while working on my car!

Ohhh nice nice! I still wish I could find out how to wire that relay I bought.

Originally Posted by USAF_BIMMER

Ohhh nice nice! I still wish I could find out how to wire that relay I bought.

While I was at RadioShack I asked em if they knew and his responses was "what's a relay?"

Wooow -_-

Originally Posted by USAF_BIMMER

I'm gonna guess you went with a 1 amp SPDT Moro relay, because that's the only $5 pc relay they had, only question is how did you wire it into the buzzer and the connected for the alarm?

Mine was 10 amp I think? But 1 amp is probably enough I would think, I don't really know how much power those buzzers pull but probably not a lot.

To wire it, connect the SIREN wire (the one you had connected to the negative on your siren) to one end of the coil on the relay. The other end of the coil goes to constant 12V (the wire you had connected to your + on the siren). The + on the siren stays connected to that same wire. But now connect the - on your siren to the Normally Open wire on the relay (labeled NO usually) and the other end of the relay to ground. (There is a ground wire in the alarm bundle, I forget what color. Look at the WDS).

I'll try to find the exact part I used for the relay and write up a more explanatory/detailed explanation when I get a chance

I did the install this past weekend (only lost 1 piece - i think this is a record for me.)

After reading the above posts, I think it might need a relay as mentioned. It works for both lock and unlock, but its not very loud. It sounds like you are running over a mouse and its yelling "Helllp"

I bought a 106db siren from Amazon. I tested it prior to install and it was super loud. I think since I am familiar with the dismantling of the area now, that I will just buy the OEM Siren/bracket and use that.

Originally Posted by USAF_BIMMER

Ohhh nice nice! I still wish I could find out how to wire that relay I bought.

heres a good place to start knowing how to wire relays http://www.the12volt.com


Weak Negative Output to Strong Ground Output
Often it is necessary to provide a stronger ground than the negative output of an alarm or keyless entry can provide. When this is the case, use the following diagram.


Weak Positive Output to High Current Positive Output
Often it is necessary to provide more current than the positive output of an alarm or keyless entry can provide. When this is the case, use the following diagram.


you will just need to test the weak signal out wire from the car... hope this helps

Just did this about an hour ago. Works great and I used the Piezo 102 dB siren.