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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 09-18-2012, 10:04 PM   #21
Dz1087
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I may jinx myself, but aside from a crank sensor, my jeep has been bulletproof. It also has 70000 more miles and 4 years on my BMW. I have also sank it up to the steering wheel a few times....

Just frustrated I suppose. This car was really not what I wanted when I bought it, I just saw the low miles and great body condition and thought it would not require much maintenance. If the dme is indeed the culprit, I'm not sure I can justify the maintenance cost in addition to the purchase price.

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Old 09-19-2012, 06:30 AM   #22
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Why are you so convinced your DME is the issue?? They rarely have issues and rarely need to be reflashed.

These cars are 100% predictable if you read and pay attention.

Just be glad you did not buy an Audi or Mercedes!

Suggest you start over with what you problem is and what has been done to the car so far.

Suggest you read the fist 2 links below in my signature.

If you do no want to do maintenance, suggest you lease your cars!
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 09-19-2012, 06:48 AM   #23
jfoj
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You may have a basic electrical problem feeding the DME or your meter is not accurate at lower Voltages??

Suggest you get fresh set of AAA or AA batteries and put 3 of them together to see if you get slightly over 4.5 Volts as a test of your meter low Voltage accuracy.

Also make sure you have 12 Volts feeding the DME and you may need to check http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/ for wiring diagram info.

Before you become committed to the car, if it is a manual transmission, suggest you search subframe failures on the forum and make sure your car is solid before you get a rude awakening!
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:40 PM   #24
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Well, starting over - I had the codes for bad intake and exhaust cam sensors. After Inspection II service, I changed out the sensors with BMW sensors from the dealer. While researching the change out, I came across the Bentley video showing how to test the sensors. They showed 5V in the video going to the sensor for the reference voltage - which should go to 0V when the lobes of the shafts pass in front of it.

Before and after changing them out, my sensors had 2.7V from the harness.

Before and after, I have very erratic acceleration from a stop, sometime it will take off like a normal car, other times it will almost stall out before revving quickly and jerking forward, and most of the time it will take off somewhere in between these two extremes (this is under any type acceleration - fast, granny).

It has not thrown any codes since I changed them out, however it has stalled out completely last week (I had just started and was moving forward when I remembered I needed something from my house and stopped, put it in reverse and pushed on the gas again and it stalled).


Mainly due to the voltage going to the sensors is why I think this is a possible DME problem. I have also heard that the fuel pump can cause similar symptoms, but with the codes and the voltage, I am still suspect of the DME itself. I tested my multimeter and it read exact-on for 2 different, known batt voltages below 5V, so it is measuring correctly. I will take a look at the harness termination for the two sensors as well as the power supply for the DME itself tonight or tomorrow and report back what I find.

BTW, the coupe is an auto. Did they have the subframe issues like the manuals? Might as well pour through that when I replace the right rear LCA.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:02 AM   #25
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If I were in your situation, the first thing I would do is check the reference Voltage at the crank sensor and see what you have there.

Then you need to figure out if there is a wiring connection problem or a hardware problem.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

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Old 09-20-2012, 08:28 AM   #26
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low 5volts

yyou may have some other sensor requiring 5 volts that is defective and loading the 5v down to the lower level. The dmc may then interpret the signal of that sensor and others incorrectly.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:23 AM   #27
Dz1087
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So, I haven't gotten under the car to test the crank sensor, but I have a little update.

Started the car yesterday morning and drove about .5 miles to the nearest stop sign on the street, stopped, and when I took off, the car died again. It seems to be much more fussy about taking off when it is warming up, although it still acts up when warm. Aside from the acceleration hesitation from a start, when it is cold it also seems to step the amount of acceleration - when I take off and hold the pedal steady it feels like I'm actually tapping the pedal until it finally gets above 10mph.

Any thoughts on the car acting up more when cold?
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:34 PM   #28
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So, I was pouring through the coder link and was trying to find the pin for the voltage supply for the DME.

It looks like it is pin 7 on X60001.

How would I test that? Should it have the power coming to it with the ignition off? I doubt it would be smart to pull X60001 off the DME and then turn the ignition on.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:08 AM   #29
Dz1087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
If I were in your situation, the first thing I would do is check the reference Voltage at the crank sensor and see what you have there.

Then you need to figure out if there is a wiring connection problem or a hardware problem.
Gonna check the crank voltage today. If it too is showing 2.7, could that still be a wiring issue?


Now, upon further inspection, I found I have cracks in my upper boot and in one of the 'f' connector lines that run out of the upper boot.

I realize these can also cause the throttle delay, but with my dme previously throwing codes for the cam sensors, and now seeing they have less than the required voltage, I still suspect it a dme problem at the bottom of this issue. Thoughts?

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Old 09-29-2012, 10:54 AM   #30
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So, just checked the crank sensor and it too reads 2.73V.

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Old 10-02-2012, 09:58 PM   #31
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Bump.

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Old 10-03-2012, 07:04 AM   #32
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So why are you bumping?

What else have you done to resolve your issue?

What other testing have you performed?

Have you had a chance to compare another car?

You will need to study the wiring diagrams, make sure you have proper power and grounds to the DME. You than may need to disconnect the cam and crank sensors then measure the reference at the DME connector.

You may then need to disconnect the DME connector when the sensors are unplugged and measure the resistance between connections and to ground to see if the harness is pinched somewhere?

Then you may need to remove the pin(s) for the reference from the DME connection and then measure the reference to see if the DME can actually put out the reference.

You may also need to check to see if have had water in the DME box and any corrosion.

Otherwise put a new DME in the car and hope is solves your problem??
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:41 PM   #33
Dz1087
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So, when measuring the v on the dme, can I use the chassis ground, or is there another ground I should be using?

Can I use a used dme if mine is bad?

Where is the physical location of the b+ distribution unit?



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Old 11-04-2012, 09:14 PM   #34
Dz1087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
So why are you bumping?

What else have you done to resolve your issue?

What other testing have you performed?

Have you had a chance to compare another car?

You will need to study the wiring diagrams, make sure you have proper power and grounds to the DME. You than may need to disconnect the cam and crank sensors then measure the reference at the DME connector.

You may then need to disconnect the DME connector when the sensors are unplugged and measure the resistance between connections and to ground to see if the harness is pinched somewhere?

Then you may need to remove the pin(s) for the reference from the DME connection and then measure the reference to see if the DME can actually put out the reference.

You may also need to check to see if have had water in the DME box and any corrosion.

Otherwise put a new DME in the car and hope is solves your problem??

Ok, so I tested the relay tonight and the volts coming off the B+ distributor was 12.3V with ignition off. I also tested the pedal assembly tonight and the reference voltage going to that was 4.998 which the spaghetti decoder site said was the absolutely required volts for proper gas pedal operation. I was afraid to disconnect the 60001 connector with the ignition was on in case it would do harm to the DME.

With the shape of the connectors, I'm a little confused on how to measure the imput voltage to the actual DME while the engine is running. Anyone got a trick to checking that?

I'll try to look at the continuity of the wires from the DME to the sensors tonight, but since they are ALL showing 2.73V exactly, and the pedal was showing almost exactly 5V, I'm still thinking my DME is FUBAR.

On another yet possibly related note, I took my 325 in for an alignment on Friday. Anyway, after the alignment, they had me sign the usual documents, and in one packet was the service history. I asked for a copy, but the service tech said BMW didn't allow that. Anyway, I saw on there that in 2005, this car had the exhaust CPS replaced.


What are the odds that an exhaust CPS would need to be replaced twice in the first 50k due to just sensor failure???

Last edited by Dz1087; 11-04-2012 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:49 PM   #35
Dz1087
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Here is my theory, if you think your fuel pump/filter is giving you problems, for the $125-$160 you should probably replace the pump & filter.

Even if it does not resolve your issue, you have eliminated a typical failure point in the car and can then focus on other issues. The pumps soft fail and many people are surprise on the improved performance with a new fuel pump.

Also make sure your fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines are in good shape, both under the car and at the F connector on the upper intake elbow.

DISA, VANOS seals and MAF can also cause issue, however, the fuel pump is probably the cheapest and easiest thing to rule out. VANOS seals are not expensive, but add the valve cover gasket and the time to do the work, it is the most complex repair out of the 4.

DISA is an easy check and is about $175 for a replacement. MAF is close to $200 depending on which one.

The car is 9 years old, it is worth refreshing sensors as they do not last for ever, but a refresh is probably much cheaper than a new car and if you can DIY, most of these tasks are not too difficult.

I forgot to add that I have replaced the fuel filter and the pump. Still drives exactly like before. I'm lost on how to measure the output voltage from the dme itself, I don't want to power the unit on with the harness in plugged to get probes to it and I really don't want to press through the wires to get the voltage either.

I will be taking the car out of town for about two months on business, so may be I can read up on it more while I'm gone.
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:45 PM   #36
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Back probe -
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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