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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 11-18-2012, 11:17 PM   #681
Stinger9
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Not unusual to have to do it a few times over heatup/cooldown cycles.
Repeat until you get no more air out.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:51 PM   #682
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I just added radiator fluid and bled the system however my coolant level indicator came on

Does this mean I didn't add sufficient coolant prior to bleeding the system?
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:57 AM   #683
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Coolant level indicator is strictly just an indication that the level in your ET is too low.
Check it manually and add to raise the rod to its uppermost position. Run car and bleed again and check again. Repeat until perfect.
May have to position car with front end raised compared to rear to get it right.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:37 AM   #684
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Yes your right. I pulled my car out of the garage which isnt level and let the vehicle cool down. Once cool I added radiator fluid since the level was low so i'll continue to bleed the cooling system until its correct. Fortunately for me I didnt observe any leaks so Im glad replacing the hoses did the trick.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:07 PM   #685
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For the people that aren't adventuresome DIY'ers, I just had an ECSTuning level 2 cooling system refresh kit (w/ the BMW parts), idler & belt tensioner installed by local indie BMW garage for about $1,100. The thermostat was not getting the engine warm enough so I figured I'd have the whole thing done. 2004 325ci w/ 99,300 mi.
Hope this info is helpful.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:24 PM   #686
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My leak is coming from part 22 and I'm not sure if part 23 (sensor) is involved.

https://www.trademotion.com/parts/20...iagram=1945090

To me it looks like it's coming from where the sensor meets the fitting.

I've never really worked on my own cars but I want to fix this.
If I just change out the parts (lower hose and sensor) then replace lost coolant will the repair be complete? Do I have to bleed air using the bleeder screw by the et cap after in this case? Anything else I should do, just with this repair? Thanks.

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Last edited by Nichts; 11-27-2012 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:43 PM   #687
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You have outlined the correct procedure.
Replace the two parts after lowering your coolant level. Bleed after filling with the bleed screw you described.
Screw may crack and necessitate replacement of upper hose too. Many have replaced this screw with the brass aftermarket one.
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:00 PM   #688
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Thank you. What is your recommended method of lowering the coolant level before beginning? I apologize for the amateur questions.

I’ve inspected the leak much more closely today. There are no leaks coming from any cracks or damages. The leaking is happening inside the fitting that the temp sensor sits in (at the end of the lower hose, by the radiator). On the fitting there are, for lack of a better term, “drain/vent holes”. One square hole on each side, which is where my coolant is escaping.


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Old 11-28-2012, 01:19 PM   #689
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There are no drain/vent holes on the fitting for the temperature sensor.
You could just buy a new sensor that comes with a new O-ring and correctly install it with lube (coolant can be used). This will stop your leak as described by you.
Some buy the O-ring separately, but dealer does not sell it that way. A new sensor will not hurt anyone. Is cheap.

Lower coolant by draining at the radiator bottom drain fixture. Careful as it is plastic.
Remove ET cap when doing this.


Are you known to your friends as "mr. nothing"?

Last edited by Stinger9; 11-28-2012 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:42 PM   #690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
There are no drain/vent holes on the fitting for the temperature sensor.
You could just buy a new sensor that comes with a new O-ring and correctly install it with lube (coolant can be used). This will stop your leak as described by you.
Some buy the O-ring separately, but dealer does not sell it that way. A new sensor will not hurt anyone. Is cheap.

Lower coolant by draining at the radiator bottom drain fixture. Careful as it is plastic.
Remove ET cap when doing this.


Are you known to your friends as "mr. nothing"?
Thank you for the detailed help! Sorry for the incorrect info about the holes. After looking again I was referring to the cutouts that allow the sensors clips to expand. Thanks again.
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Last edited by Nichts; 11-28-2012 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:42 PM   #691
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Let us know how things go!

no need to apologize. we all come here to ask questions about what we don't already know. me too.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:44 PM   #692
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Just replaced my ET how important is it to bleed the system? Is there an average time heatup/cooldown cycles, Can the bleed be done after its been driven? Thanks

Last edited by cgd; 11-28-2012 at 08:45 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:52 PM   #693
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Very important to bleed the coolant at the bleeder screw.
Takes all air out of the system which can greatly reduce the efficiency of the cooling system, and cause other problems. Potentially damage parts.

Yes you can bleed your system at any time. Bleed a couple/few times until you get no more bubbles.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:55 PM   #694
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Thanks, old time wrencher. First attempt at a BMW, recently replaced the oil, anti-freeze and spark plugs. Missed the need for the bleeding, could that have possible added to the failure of the ET? Had a large crack/break down the side of it. 2001 330CI w/107k, looked to be an original part.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:00 PM   #695
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Split ET not your fault. Just age takes them out; most sooner than yours.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:01 AM   #696
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Tensioner pulley replace question

I ordered a new tensioner pulley from BMA (along with Aux fan, thermostat, and plastic rivets) Forgot how the tensioner pulley goes back on the tensioner. Washer, pulley, socket head screw or pulley, washer socket head screw? I think it's the first one but should have taken pic or made notation. Thanks for any answers.
T C

Last edited by tcseadoo; 11-29-2012 at 01:02 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:12 AM   #697
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when in doubt, go to www.realoem.com

does this help: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...90&hg=11&fg=18
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:05 AM   #698
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That does help.
Thanks.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:36 AM   #699
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Is it okay to use ECS Tuning's $330 Level 2 kit, vs their OEM $480 kit?

Have there been any problems with their parts before? I know they have a 1 year manufacturing defect warranty.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2063862/
vs
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES263517/
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:40 AM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newman513 View Post
Is it okay to use ECS Tuning's $330 Level 2 kit, vs their OEM $480 kit?

Have there been any problems with their parts before? I know they have a 1 year manufacturing defect warranty.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2063862/
vs
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES263517/
I recommend you piece together a "kit" yourself. that "kit" barely scratches the surface. Replace everything or you are just inviting trouble. GL!
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