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Old 11-27-2012, 03:18 PM   #1
E462005
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Tools for a pulley and belt job

I've looked at several posts for the pulley and belt job. I know I'm going to need either a hex or torx tool. Not exactly sure. But if anyone wants to give me a list. Also I found this. I know that's just for the belt replacement.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:23 PM   #2
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You likely have two mechanical tensioners. If so you'll need a plain jane 15 or 16mm socket (forgot which) or a 5/8" works fine as well. Thats to release the belts. You may need a torx bit to remove the actual pulley from the tensioner. Either case, make sure you have a full socket set, torx set, and allen head set. you'll need all of them anyway to work on these cars. GL!!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:14 PM   #3
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You likely have two mechanical tensioners. If so you'll need a plain jane 15 or 16mm socket (forgot which) or a 5/8" works fine as well. Thats to release the belts. You may need a torx bit to remove the actual pulley from the tensioner. Either case, make sure you have a full socket set, torx set, and allen head set. you'll need all of them anyway to work on these cars. GL!!
If the pulleys are bad will I be able to tell just by looking at the belt while its spinning? Because the noise only happens in the morning. 4-5am then after I get off work 330pm. It's noisy for a few minutes then it stops. I looked at the belt while the car was on and it looked like it was running fine .

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Old 11-27-2012, 09:50 PM   #4
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Check the pulleys without the belt on.
A good pulley will spin 1-2 times by hand. A bad pulley will keep spinning.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:52 PM   #5
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Replace the pulleys every 50,000 miles or whenever they make noise. Whichever comes first.

no need to check or test anything.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:00 AM   #6
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Ok will try that before I do anything with this thks
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:27 AM   #7
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Since you're in there replace both idler and main belt tensioner plus both belts. Easy job just get good leverage when loosening up the tensioner to get the belt back on.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:49 AM   #8
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Since you're in there replace both idler and main belt tensioner plus both belts. Easy job just get good leverage when loosening up the tensioner to get the belt back on.
How good will the 36mm wrench and hammer work opposed to the fan clutch tool? I'd like to go the inexpensive route and get the wrench for the $30 fan tool
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:12 AM   #9
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How good will the 36mm wrench and hammer work opposed to the fan clutch tool? I'd like to go the inexpensive route and get the wrench for the $30 fan tool
Wrench is 32mm not 36mm. 36mm is for the oil filter housing cap. Don't hit it with a hammer, this will stress the already weak water pump bearing. Get a big long screwdriver to hold the WP pulley while you turn the fan nut clockwise (facing the car). I just got the fan tool. I'm just going to sell it after I convert to the electric fan.

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Old 12-05-2012, 07:37 AM   #10
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Wrench is 32mm not 36mm. 36mm is for the oil filter housing cap. Don't hit it with a hammer, this will stress the already weak water pump bearing. Get a big long screwdriver to hold the WP pulley while you turn the fan nut clockwise (facing the car). I just got the fan tool. I'm just going to sell it after I convert to the electric fan.
But will I be ok just getting the 32mm wrench and hammer?
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:39 AM   #11
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But will I be ok just getting the 32mm wrench and hammer?
I wouldn't do it with the hammer. Get a long screwdriver. The hammer method is asking for trouble.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:45 AM   #12
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I wouldn't do it with the hammer. Get a long screwdriver. The hammer method is asking for trouble.
I meant a rubber mallet not a hammer. Will that be better?
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:47 AM   #13
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I'm just trying to get this job done this weekend I'm buying all my parts tomorrow and all I'm missing is the wrench. I'm scared something will break while driving if I keep putting this off. I've had this noise going on for 2 weeks now.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:03 AM   #14
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I meant a rubber mallet not a hammer. Will that be better?
They'll both shock the WP bearing. Also the guy in that picture is hitting it the wrong way I'm pretty sure. Why can't you just go to Home Depot or AutoZone and get a big screwdriver if you're already getting the wrench.

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Old 12-05-2012, 08:16 AM   #15
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They'll both shock the WP bearing. Also the guy in that picture is hitting it the wrong way I'm pretty sure. Why can't you just go to Home Depot or AutoZone and get a big screwdriver if you're already getting the wrench.
Yea I can get the screwdriver. Has to be a long one?
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:17 AM   #16
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Yea I can get the screwdriver. Has to be a long one?
Long for leverage and thick for strength. Not too thick though or it will slip off the WP pulley nuts.

Last edited by WDE46; 12-05-2012 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:21 AM   #17
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Long for leverage and thick for strength. Not too thick though or it will slip off the WP pulley nuts.
That's what she....
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:58 AM   #18
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Let me add more stress to your life. Since you biggest issue is taking the fan off, you might as well change to WP and thermo. I have an 05 as well and just hit 90,000. My idler pulley was making noise for months till it finally exploded one morning. The WP and Temp usually go around 80,000 miles any ways, so if your up there in miles, change them!!! Good time to replace lower rad hose, which is a bitch to take off, I hear.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:08 AM   #19
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Let me add more stress to your life. Since you biggest issue is taking the fan off, you might as well change to WP and thermo. I have an 05 as well and just hit 90,000. My idler pulley was making noise for months till it finally exploded one morning. The WP and Temp usually go around 80,000 miles any ways, so if your up there in miles, change them!!! Good time to replace lower rad hose, which is a bitch to take off, I hear.
Damn that just made my day-__- I bought the car with 105,000 miles. It's at 114k now.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:09 AM   #20
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That's what she....
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