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General E46 Forum
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:49 AM   #1
alkazmalim
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Strange Overheating

Like a month ago my radiator was leaking and both the radiator and the sensor was changed. Since than after couple of minutes I start to drive my car, radiator light comes out but I just ignored it.
Yesterday my car is overheated. I checked oil and radiator fluid and they were all there in proper levels. When I wait some time engine cools down little bit and start to drive little bit and overheat again. I searched the forum, people talk about some fake overheat issues, I checked the radiator and it was literally boiling at the time so I believe it is not an issue with the temp gauge.
Any idea?

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:52 AM   #2
bostonsc4
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Inproperly bled system. Try to bleed it again and get the air bubbles out of it.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:06 AM   #3
alkazmalim
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They actually changed my radiator last time I was in the mechanic. Is there a chance that there can be bubbles in a new radiator as it is not bleeded?
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:13 AM   #4
bostonsc4
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Of course! A proper bleeding of the system is the only way to know 100% if you have no air bubbles in the system. Usually these air bubbles are the reason behind phantom overheats such as you're describing.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:15 AM   #5
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+1 Bleeding is a must, and some mechanics miss it.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:27 AM   #6
WDE46
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You have to bleed the system everytime you do work on the cooling system minus just topping it off. You can do it yourself in 10 minutes with distilled water.

Last edited by WDE46; 11-29-2012 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:33 AM   #7
BimmersGarage
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If your mechanic only changed out your radiator & sensor and did not bleed it thoroughly, it can lead to overheating later. Or, if you're still on your original waterpump... it's probably failing.
Or, if you may have another leak occurring else where that can allow air to be drawn into the system.. which would lead to your "random" overheating also.

I suggest:
You try and bleed your cooling system properly, usually takes 30 minutes or more (if it's your frist time) - search : DIY cooling system bleed

And, never over fill your expansion tank. Fill only to between the two bubble mark on the measure stick.

Last edited by BimmersGarage; 11-29-2012 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:45 PM   #8
alkazmalim
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Thanks guys, let me work on it and update
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:22 PM   #9
alkazmalim
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Hi again,

I tried to bled the system but actually it was a failure. When I loosen the bleeding screw neither air nor fluid is coming. I think water is not circulating at all. I checked the codes and I have 1622, 1421 and 1423. Also when I drove the car, first it overheats up to red temperature, after 20-30 seconds firstly the red light gets off and temperature starts to be down slowly back to mid temperature. After shortly it starts to get higher up to red area and in 30 seconds it starts to go down back. So it periodically does this...

The history of the problem is:
The radiator started to leak and I was about to blew the engine, I saw the white smoke(gasket is damaged probably)
The mechanic changed the sensor part, he said it is leaking from there. Then when he started after that radiator broke from another point. Then he changed the whole radiator as well. After couple of days this I got a check engine light but I ignored it because sometimes a warning about transmission causes this. Then maybe 30 days after it overheat again with the story I mentioned above. Ail and coolant is there but overeated..

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:24 AM   #10
WDE46
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Air and fluid will only come out when you start filling to ET to the very top with distilled water. I assume you're doing this, but you can't really assume anything on these forums.

Last edited by WDE46; 12-05-2012 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:37 PM   #11
alkazmalim
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for sure I did...
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:13 PM   #12
TurnersInOz
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Can you post please the exact steps taken to bleed the system then.
I can't see any way short of something terribly wrong that you wouldn't get anything out of the bleed screw.
Driving with a CEL and/or low coolant light on is not a good idea.

Last edited by TurnersInOz; 12-05-2012 at 03:15 PM.
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