E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > General E46 Forum

General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 11-30-2012, 06:54 PM   #21
willsbma
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: north babylon NY
Posts: 2,529
My Ride: 99 323i
Quote:
Originally Posted by topaz46 View Post
I had the same problem with a 330 at work, there is a valve that controls flow to the heater core located near the drivers side near the firewall, I forgettthe exact name of it but if I remember correctly theres 3 hoses that go to it, its kind of a pain to get but its there, if you follow the coolant hoses to the back of the drivers side of the engine bay you'll see it, that could very well be the problem
If that valve was stuck open or closed it wouldn't open/close while driving, it would always be stuck open or closed.

I think your water pump is failing, but that's just my .02 worth of experience with my cooling system. I would bleed properly and definitely keep an eye on the temp gauge and coolant level. The little hole just inside the ET fill neck should piss coolant when there is good flow. Maybe check that out while you're poking around.
__________________
Matte Black Kidney Grilles | Smoked Tails & Corners | Mtech II Bumper | Hotchkis Springs | ACS Roof Spoiler | M3 Spoiler | 20% Tint
WTB: Black sun visors & grab handles - PM ME!

I have P.A. Soft and a 20-pin adapter. Only used it a few times but pm me if you need anything coded!
willsbma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 05:10 AM   #22
Neotate
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 9
My Ride: E46
Just bled the system and I'm still getting the same problem with only getting hotter air once the revs are higher, when idling the air starts to turn colder so it may sound like I have a problem with the heater core valve, does anyone know how much a heater core valve costs and how hard is it to replace?
Neotate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 08:01 AM   #23
WDE46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Old Greg's Cavern
Posts: 9,015
My Ride: 2004 330Ci OBM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neotate View Post
Just bled the system and I'm still getting the same problem with only getting hotter air once the revs are higher, when idling the air starts to turn colder so it may sound like I have a problem with the heater core valve, does anyone know how much a heater core valve costs and how hard is it to replace?
I posted this previously:

Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
Sounds like your car is having a problem keeping water flowing through the heater core. It could be a stuck heater core valve (part #2 in this image):



Part Number: 64118369805 (at least for my 2004 330Ci)

Try bleeding the system before you take this part out to examine it.
TischerBMW actually has the best price I can find (getBMWparts.com). All vendors seem to have a very similar price ($70-75).

ECS has great pictures.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/64118369805/ES177235/

I'm not entirely sure that the valve is the problem. One person has suggested your water pump. I guess it's possible, but I feel it is unlikely since your car is not overheating and the waterpump doesn't fade out in terms of flow rates. It breaks the bearing and makes the belt jump off eventually but doesn't lose flow capacity. The problem would be with the valve assuming a valve can get stuck in a position b/w open or closed. If it's stuck partially open then it's just not letting enough water through at idle, but when you increase the RPM, the flow increases and gives you hot water to the core.

You need to inspect these parts above before you buy the valve. It could just be a hose with a kink in it.

Last edited by WDE46; 12-01-2012 at 08:04 AM.
WDE46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 08:04 AM   #24
Big Geek
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Aurora,Il
Posts: 45
My Ride: 2001 325i
It's your water pump/thermostat. Listen to what everyone is telling you. The water pump is moving more water when your revs are high. Hence the warm air when moving. If it was the control valve you would not have hot air at all. But its your money. Piss it away as you see fit.
Big Geek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 08:27 AM   #25
WDE46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Old Greg's Cavern
Posts: 9,015
My Ride: 2004 330Ci OBM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Geek View Post
It's your water pump/thermostat. Listen to what everyone is telling you. The water pump is moving more water when your revs are high. Hence the warm air when moving. If it was the control valve you would not have hot air at all. But its your money. Piss it away as you see fit.
I just don't see how it's the water pump or the thermostat. The water pump doesn't just fade out. The impeller always works. The thermostat doesn't control flow to the heater core at all. The heat works if the thermostat is closed or open. In my opinion it has to be the valve or something in that part diagram I posted.

OP, can you tell us your cars water temperatures while at idle warmed up and while driving (at say 60-70 mph) warmed up? This will tell us if your thermostat is broken.

Last edited by WDE46; 12-01-2012 at 08:28 AM.
WDE46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 09:02 AM   #26
Brinkley
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: asheville NC
Posts: 1,502
My Ride: 99 328i, 07 z4 3.0
Have you inspected your system, OP, as in getting under the car, making totally sure there are no coolant leaks, removing undertray, running car, making certain nothing is leaking? When I had this problem, it turned out to be a crack in the expansion tank, as I said earlier, that was very hard to find. I saw evidence of dried coolant nearby and after removing the tank I found the crack. I would think bleeding the system, without identifying the problem is pointless.
If you want to test the heater valve, then just bypass it temporarily, see if that fixes your problem. I'm still sticking with leak though. Air in the system will find its way to the heater core.
Brinkley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 09:12 AM   #27
willsbma
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: north babylon NY
Posts: 2,529
My Ride: 99 323i
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
I just don't see how it's the water pump or the thermostat. The water pump doesn't just fade out. The impeller always works. The thermostat doesn't control flow to the heater core at all. The heat works if the thermostat is closed or open. In my opinion it has to be the valve or something in that part diagram I posted.

OP, can you tell us your cars water temperatures while at idle warmed up and while driving (at say 60-70 mph) warmed up? This will tell us if your thermostat is broken.
Sadly mistaken I'm afraid, and this will lead to an overheating situation. My water pump (only 2 years old) had this "fade" problem, where it would circulate and then not circulate coolant. I was finally annoyed and pulled it. Here is a pic of what happened:


The impeller was just sitting there while the shaft spun freely. And to reinforce this even more, the bearings in the pump were quieter than a mouse, so there wasn't any indication that the pump had failed! I found a cheap replacement at Pep Boys for I think $60 made by Bosch with a metal impeller. Good luck with your problem.
__________________
Matte Black Kidney Grilles | Smoked Tails & Corners | Mtech II Bumper | Hotchkis Springs | ACS Roof Spoiler | M3 Spoiler | 20% Tint
WTB: Black sun visors & grab handles - PM ME!

I have P.A. Soft and a 20-pin adapter. Only used it a few times but pm me if you need anything coded!
willsbma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 10:10 AM   #28
WDE46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Old Greg's Cavern
Posts: 9,015
My Ride: 2004 330Ci OBM
Quote:
Originally Posted by willsbma View Post
Sadly mistaken I'm afraid, and this will lead to an overheating situation. My water pump (only 2 years old) had this "fade" problem, where it would circulate and then not circulate coolant. I was finally annoyed and pulled it. Here is a pic of what happened:


The impeller was just sitting there while the shaft spun freely. And to reinforce this even more, the bearings in the pump were quieter than a mouse, so there wasn't any indication that the pump had failed! I found a cheap replacement at Pep Boys for I think $60 made by Bosch with a metal impeller. Good luck with your problem.
Good insight. I've never seen that before. I guess it could be OP's problem, but he's not over heating.
WDE46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 12:52 PM   #29
willsbma
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: north babylon NY
Posts: 2,529
My Ride: 99 323i
Could be enough flow to keep it cool at idle, but not enough to push into heater core?

Sent from my DROIDX using Bimmer App
__________________
Matte Black Kidney Grilles | Smoked Tails & Corners | Mtech II Bumper | Hotchkis Springs | ACS Roof Spoiler | M3 Spoiler | 20% Tint
WTB: Black sun visors & grab handles - PM ME!

I have P.A. Soft and a 20-pin adapter. Only used it a few times but pm me if you need anything coded!
willsbma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 12:53 PM   #30
tks
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Online
Posts: 804
My Ride: slower than yours
Coolant flush


/thread.
tks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 01:20 PM   #31
Neotate
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 9
My Ride: E46
Had a new water pump put in last year so unless I'm really unlucky I don't believe that has broken down, going to try to replace the heater control valve tomorrow and see how that goes, if anyone has any tips on replacing the heater control valve please let me know
Neotate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 05:28 PM   #32
willsbma
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: north babylon NY
Posts: 2,529
My Ride: 99 323i
Dont replace it just yet. Pop the hoses off and keep the electric connected. Have someone turn the heat on and off while looking through the valve to see if the plunger is moving up and down. It only moves a little so keep a close watch

Sent from my DROIDX using Bimmer App
__________________
Matte Black Kidney Grilles | Smoked Tails & Corners | Mtech II Bumper | Hotchkis Springs | ACS Roof Spoiler | M3 Spoiler | 20% Tint
WTB: Black sun visors & grab handles - PM ME!

I have P.A. Soft and a 20-pin adapter. Only used it a few times but pm me if you need anything coded!
willsbma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 07:18 PM   #33
rizwan1377
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rockland county, NY
Posts: 1,777
My Ride: 04 M56,LC 100,RX300
Send a message via AIM to rizwan1377 Send a message via MSN to rizwan1377 Send a message via Yahoo to rizwan1377
There is probably air in the system, bleed the cooling system before you do anything else.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Bimmer App
__________________
rizwan1377 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 10:26 PM   #34
EmFiftyFour
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NY
Posts: 488
My Ride: 03' 330xi auto, 167k
How does a bad water pump sound? Im getting a high pitched whistle sometimes when I give it some throttle.. I know I replaced my water pump with a metal impeller (Graf) about 2 years ago.. Im also only getting heat when I rev to about 4k RPM its gonna be a cold winter.. no its not air. as a side note, due to a hole in between my head and block that shoots coolant out, i was forced to resort to a stop leak product. i was fine for about 2 years like this. looks like that crap has caught up and clogged all types of stuff up.
__________________

Last edited by EmFiftyFour; 12-01-2012 at 10:27 PM.
EmFiftyFour is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2012, 09:30 AM   #35
WDE46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Old Greg's Cavern
Posts: 9,015
My Ride: 2004 330Ci OBM
Quote:
Originally Posted by EmFiftyFour View Post
How does a bad water pump sound? Im getting a high pitched whistle sometimes when I give it some throttle.. I know I replaced my water pump with a metal impeller (Graf) about 2 years ago.. Im also only getting heat when I rev to about 4k RPM its gonna be a cold winter.. no its not air. as a side note, due to a hole in between my head and block that shoots coolant out, i was forced to resort to a stop leak product. i was fine for about 2 years like this. looks like that crap has caught up and clogged all types of stuff up.
I thought that a whistle is usually made by a torn intake boot. It varies with RPM (airflow).
WDE46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 12:45 PM   #36
nicoled985
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 35
My Ride: BMW 325i 2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
I thought that a whistle is usually made by a torn intake boot. It varies with RPM (airflow).
I believe you are right! I have a torn intake boot and I get the whistle and I also have the same problem as the threadstarter. Cool air when stationary and hot air when moving. I just had my water pump replaced with a metal one about lesd than a year ago! Im gonna replace my intake boot within the next week. I included a pic down below. Sorry if you guys get offended by the dusty engine. I definitely want to clean it but im new to this!


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Bimmer App
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1359657759366.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	12.1 KB
ID:	488734  

Last edited by nicoled985; 01-31-2013 at 12:46 PM.
nicoled985 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 02:14 PM   #37
sgoetz628
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 334
My Ride: 2002 330 CiC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neotate View Post
Had a new water pump put in last year so unless I'm really unlucky I don't believe that has broken down, going to try to replace the heater control valve tomorrow and see how that goes, if anyone has any tips on replacing the heater control valve please let me know

Your last comment was two months ago. What's happened since then and is the problem solved? As you know, other people may have your same problem, so please let us all know the outcome.
__________________
I love my car as much today as the day I bought it
sgoetz628 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 02:52 PM   #38
Neotate
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 9
My Ride: E46
Sorry haven't posted, went on vacation then came back to reassess the problem. I removed both pipes going into the passenger side of the engine bayland flushed it all out with a hose.. a load of brown gunk came out, put it all back together and still no heat but it cleared out the system. Replaced the heater control valve and flushed the whole system. refilled it and bled it and now i get heat, i also had a minor leak somewhere so i dropped in some leak repairer which stopped the leaking so it was probably a combination of things which caused the issue. All fun and games now i got a whirling noise from the rear offside wheel so it looks like I got bearing to replace when it gets warmer.
Neotate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2013, 02:59 PM   #39
WDE46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Old Greg's Cavern
Posts: 9,015
My Ride: 2004 330Ci OBM
Holy **** OP delivers!
WDE46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2013, 01:52 PM   #40
EmFiftyFour
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NY
Posts: 488
My Ride: 03' 330xi auto, 167k
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neotate View Post
Sorry haven't posted, went on vacation then came back to reassess the problem. I removed both pipes going into the passenger side of the engine bayland flushed it all out with a hose.. a load of brown gunk came out, put it all back together and still no heat but it cleared out the system. Replaced the heater control valve and flushed the whole system. refilled it and bled it and now i get heat, i also had a minor leak somewhere so i dropped in some leak repairer which stopped the leaking so it was probably a combination of things which caused the issue. All fun and games now i got a whirling noise from the rear offside wheel so it looks like I got bearing to replace when it gets warmer.
Why on earth would you use a stop leak product unless you were planning on trashing the motor? In my situation I had a hole in the block.. I didnt have much choice. But to use stop leak when you can just fix it, is beyond retarded, sorry.. That crap clogged my heater core as well.
__________________

Last edited by EmFiftyFour; 02-08-2013 at 01:52 PM.
EmFiftyFour is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use