Vanos seals solution

Originally Posted by IM328i

Has the replacement of the VANOS piston seals proven to remedy the idle jump and possible stall for the long term?

Yes!
If the vanos seals fail again it can return. But so far no one’s seals have failed and indications are they won't.

Thank you for taking the time to respond (and fast!). I will be replacing the seals and posting the results.

Noticed that in cold temps 45 or below I hear a metal clanking sound coming from the VANOS..... Goes away after the car warms up, oil levels are good.

Originally Posted by Solidjake

Noticed that in cold temps 45 or below I hear a metal clanking sound coming from the VANOS..... Goes away after the car warms up, oil levels are good.

What RPM?
Did you install the rattle kit? The 330 is susceptible to getting a vanos rattle.

I'm looking to do this soon since my VCG is leaking a tiny bit. The instructions look very straight forward. I'm curious why Besian System said to reserve 6+ hours for a DIY'er? I'm no where near being a mechanic, but that seems like a lot of hours for something that's very straight forward. How many hours did it really took you non-mechanics from start to finish? What was the most time consuming and most difficult part of the job?

What's the mileage on your car?

It's just a matter of many steps that all add up if done properly.
Remove the cabin air filter assembly.
Take the VC off.
Remove and clean the VCG and head surfaces.
Take the vanos out without losing any of the small parts. Disconnecting the elec connectors without breaking any parts.
Catching the spilling oil.
Working carefully to cut all the seals without nicking the piston walls.
Are you doing the rattle kit? Did not say. Adds a bunch of time and money for trial and error fitting for the thrust bearings to tolerance.
Putting the vanos back together. Reinstalling it with new gasket.
Installing new VCG with sealant in the proper places.
Getting connectors hooked back up.
So maybe not six hours, but if it's your first tme, it's all new territory.

Originally Posted by evo7

I'm looking to do this soon since my VCG is leaking a tiny bit. The instructions look very straight forward. I'm curious why Besian System said to reserve 6+ hours for a DIY'er? I'm no where near being a mechanic, but that seems like a lot of hours for something that's very straight forward. How many hours did it really took you non-mechanics from start to finish? What was the most time consuming and most difficult part of the job?

Most first timers do it in ~4 hours.
The E46 is a little simpler since the cooling system isn't involved and you don't need to get under the car. The most difficult thing if you haven't done it before is removing and installing the mechanical fan and shroud. If you have a manual transmission then you have an electric fan and that's easy.
Otherwise it's a lot of nuts and bolts. How much you clean will make a big difference in time.

Good luck on the repair!

I recently installed a VFE Supercharger. Prior to the install, my car would have issues hunting for rpm at idle and sometimes it would just completely die when coming to a stop.

Once the charger was installed, the situation got worse and it died coming to a stop much more frequently.

I did the vanos seals and the engine is rock solid! Thanks!

Originally Posted by TKC

I recently installed a VFE Supercharger. Prior to the install, my car would have issues hunting for rpm at idle and sometimes it would just completely die when coming to a stop.

Once the charger was installed, the situation got worse and it died coming to a stop much more frequently.

I did the vanos seals and the engine is rock solid! Thanks!

Congrats on the repair and results!
Thanks for the feedback!

My 2003 330i (140K miles) has a rough idle upon initial cold start and stays like that for a good minute before smoothing out. Every other day when starting it up cold, the engine will run rough for a second and stalls out and dies. As long as the engine is somewhat warm it starts fine and the idle is not near as rough. I did the CCV test where you lay a zip lock back on top of the oil filler hole and it sucks in about an inch so I'm assuming the CCV is good to go.

Is it possible my VANOS seals need replacing? Thanks.

How long has it been since you cleaned the throttle body and ICV?

What condition are your intake boots in?

Originally Posted by Stinger9

How long has it been since you cleaned the throttle body and ICV?

What condition are your intake boots in?

Brand new BMW TB replaced a month ago. Brand new intake boots. The ICV was cleaned thoroughly when installing the new TB.

Originally Posted by 2003silver330i

My 2003 330i (140K miles) has a rough idle upon initial cold start and stays like that for a good minute before smoothing out. Every other day when starting it up cold, the engine will run rough for a second and stalls out and dies. As long as the engine is somewhat warm it starts fine and the idle is not near as rough. I did the CCV test where you lay a zip lock back on top of the oil filler hole and it sucks in about an inch so I'm assuming the CCV is good to go.

Is it possible my VANOS seals need replacing? Thanks.

1" on the bag test is good.
Have you already replaced the crankcase vent valve and 4 hoses?

Here are things to consider.
1. Dirty idle control valve.
2. Crack in lower intake boot branch to idle control valve.
3. Crankcase vent valve and 4 hoses.
4. Failing DISA flap. Remove and inspect flap for excessive play.
5. Loose DISA fit to intake manifold. Wrap DISA base gasket with one layer 1/2 width electric tape.
6. Dirty or failing MAF sensor. Spray lightly with MAF cleaner and let dry.
7. Clogged fuel filter.
8. Very dirty engine air filter.

Failed vanos seals can affect cold start and might be causing this, but check all the other things first.
If you perform the vanos seals repair I suggest you also install the rattle kit as the 330 is susceptible to a vanos rattle.

Originally Posted by Rajaie

1" on the bag test is good.
Have you already replaced the crankcase vent valve and 4 hoses?

Here are things to consider.
1. Dirty idle control valve.
2. Crack in lower intake boot branch to idle control valve.
3. Crankcase vent valve and 4 hoses.
4. Failing DISA flap. Remove and inspect flap for excessive play.
5. Loose DISA fit to intake manifold. Wrap DISA base gasket with one layer 1/2 width electric tape.
6. Dirty or failing MAF sensor. Spray lightly with MAF cleaner and let dry.
7. Clogged fuel filter.
8. Very dirty engine air filter.

Failed vanos seals can affect cold start and might be causing this, but check all the other things first.
If you perform the vanos seals repair I suggest you also install the rattle kit as the 330 is susceptible to a vanos rattle.

No I have never replaced the CCV or corresponding hoses. DISA and air filter new. The DISA seal has no leak. MAF has been cleaned several times. I have never replaced the fuel filter, however wouldn't a clogged fuel filter have a rough idle the whole time the car is running?

EDIT: Let me clarify that this is not just some little rough idle. This is jolting, stumbling, bumbling rough idle.

Originally Posted by 2003silver330i

No I have never replaced the CCV or corresponding hoses. DISA and air filter new. The DISA seal has no leak. MAF has been cleaned several times. I have never replaced the fuel filter, however wouldn't a clogged fuel filter have a rough idle the whole time the car is running?

EDIT: Let me clarify that this is not just some little rough idle. This is jolting, stumbling, bumbling rough idle.

At 140k miles you should replace the fuel filter as a matter of course.
Do the crankcase vent hose blow test. Carefully remove the vent hose from the valve cover and blow hard into it, with engine off. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If not then there is a crack in the upper/lower hose. The lower hose that connects between the valve and oil dip stick cracks just below the valve.
At 140k miles you should replace the crankcase vent valve and 4 hoses as a matter of course.

Originally Posted by Rajaie

At 140k miles you should replace the fuel filter as a matter of course.
Do the crankcase vent hose blow test. Carefully remove the vent hose from the valve cover and blow hard into it, with engine off. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If not then there is a crack in the upper/lower hose. The lower hose that connects between the valve and oil dip stick cracks just below the valve.
At 140k miles you should replace the crankcase vent valve and 4 hoses as a matter of course.

I just did the CCV hose blow test and yes the oil is bubbling in the oil pan.

Originally Posted by 2003silver330i

I just did the CCV hose blow test and yes the oil is bubbling in the oil pan.

Will you blow mines!?!

Originally Posted by TrippinBimmer

Will you blow mines!?!

I will ;-)

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Bimmer App

Originally Posted by TrippinBimmer

Will you blow mines!?!

Sorry bro, your on your own.

I'm beginning to think my issue may be a bad fuel filter/regulator. After the car has been sitting all night the car dies immediately on first start. Second start it will idle rough as hell with multiple cylinder misfires. Third start it fires up fine with no misfire codes. I suspect the fuel filter/fuel regulator is losing fuel pressure slowly over night.

Originally Posted by 2003silver330i

Sorry bro, your on your own.

I'm beginning to think my issue may be a bad fuel filter/regulator. After the car has been sitting all night the car dies immediately on first start. Second start it will idle rough as hell with multiple cylinder misfires. Third start it fires up fine with no misfire codes. I suspect the fuel filter/fuel regulator is losing fuel pressure slowly over night.

Yes, but when you turn on the ignition, the pump should come on and pressurize the fuel rain within moments.

Does the car smell of gasoline when you get it started? Mine did that when my injectors leaked down over time. Spilled gas into the intake to flood the car. New injectors cured my problem.