BMW 323i rough idle, no power!!!

I also agree - it is not the VANOS seals

Had something similar on my '99 328i. I kept on getting codes 1189 and 1188, which mean there is a fuel mixture problem (caused by an air leak) - got worse and had a very rough idle that corrected itself somewhat when warm I examined the rubber intake boots that connect the MAF to the manifold and found that one was ruptured and letting in air. Replaced the ruptured ones and voila! no codes, no rough idle and improved fuel economy. Because the idle is so rough I would start there. If not there, check the plugs and the coils and the electrical to these points. Question - Did anything happen just BEFORE this problem occurred?

Good luck!

Help.
Ok this may sound like a stupid thing but my 1999 e46 loads up anytime below 1000 rpm. Plus it acts like this.
sometimes

A. I get a sound like a valve tappet sound and when this is happening the car runs ok at 1000rpm plus but if I let it sit at idle at a light after 15 secs it loads up. Then I have to restart and get it above 1000 rpm.
Also it does sounds a bit like a vacuum lead but...

B. sometimes it doesn't make the valve tappet sound but has very low end power and still will load up at idle.

original error was misfire bank 2, 3

Done Crank, Cam sensor, O2, plugs, two coils on those cycl.

spazek you ever find a fix

I have same issue. did you every get it fixed?
1999 328i with 130k started runing a bit rough at idle, then after a few weeks got worse. Now if let to idle for 10-15 seconds loads up, have to turn engine off and keep RPMs above 1000 to drive. Sometimes in one mode it pings a lot but has power, then sometimes is has no low end, but when punched acts fine and with no pinging.

HELP?

already done O2s, plugs, coils, crank and cam sensors

that sounds like you're getting unmetered air in so you're running lean. When you hit the pedal harder the ratio of unmetered air goes down so it acts more normal. Check your vacuum lines and intake boots for cracks. As our cars age those parts all get brittle.

Cleaning the MAF sensor seems to have fixed mine. I just did it yesterday and took it out for a short test drive and it was fine. I was going to go for a longer ride today to confirm it, but I am in white out conditions with no end to the snow in sight so I'm not going anywhere, but it is really easy to do and may fix your problem as well. On mine it was causing a misfire and even funny shifting due to the false signal from the MAF causing the trans to run too high of pressure. After seeing several similar threads I believe this may be a common but overlooked problem.

I bought 320i,6 cylinder,2.2L with 176k..I changed oil,plugs,MAF,lower intake hose which had a crack,fuel,air and oil filter but the car still idles rough or stalls in the morning and when i take out the MAF sensor it shakes very bad but it idles until the tempreture guage is above blue then i can plug back the MAF sensor then it can drive away smoothly like a normal car i do that everytime in the morning or when i park the car for more than 5hrs...Please help i believe in this forum

Check your DISA and clean your ICV.

You can make your own thread, we're pretty generous around here.

Since it only happens on cold starts, I would go into the hidden OBC menu and make sure your engine temps make sense. A bad temp sensor could theoretically cause those issues.

Thanks guys am going to take the car to the mechanic this weekend to have my DISA, tempreture sensor checked and clean my ICV and i will let you know guys.... @ ICOLEMAN at times if you post a new thread you get told there are a lot of threads on this issue so i thought i must stick to the nearest thread towards my problem lol

Originally Posted by Serassis

Thanks guys am going to take the car to the mechanic this weekend to have my DISA, tempreture sensor checked and clean my ICV and i will let you know guys.... @ ICOLEMAN at times if you post a new thread you get told there are a lot of threads on this issue so i thought i must stick to the nearest thread towards my problem lol

It can get expensive trying to figure out what may be wrong with your car if you have to go to a mechanic.

Before you do anything to it, check if your CEL (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT) is on. If it is on, read the engine codes stored. This may help point you in the right direction.

BMWCaptain!!! I have no CEL coming on when key is on key postion1 or 2, Only battry,oil,seatbelt,EML, ASC sign,brake pads,handbrake,seat belt lights come on and they switch off after 3 sec leaving handbrake,battry and oil lights only and when i start the car all the lights go out leaving handbrake light on ...dont give up on me boss

My 328i did that 2 months ago. It has done 230k KMs. The problem was when idling for 3 minutes or more, it went very low until 500rpm, then it bounced back and keep on doing this annoying thing.

Acceleration was sometimes slow(crawling actually), not always. Sometimes CEL light came on with the DSC(or ASC I can't remember) light. If they come, they come together that it seems like they are friends.

I did the followings(none of the followings have replaced/done in its life except the plugs):
- replace spark plugs and all six coils (found that not the source of problem)
- clean MAF, replace DISA and upper intake elbow (better but symptom still there, the evil friends still come back occasionally)
- check the CCV hoses ok
- replace lower intake elbow(it does not have crack), clean ICV, throttle body, replace throttle cable(328i still has the metal wire), - problem gone, the evil friends does not come back so far.

When I took out the ICV, it was so dirty that I put it back in and let my garage to do it altogether for ICV, TB cleaning and replace the throttle cable.

I don't know what he did but the throttle feels lighter. Could not be happier. drive like it was new.

Originally Posted by Serassis

BMWCaptain!!! I have no CEL coming on when key is on key postion1 or 2, Only battry,oil,seatbelt,EML, ASC sign,brake pads,handbrake,seat belt lights come on and they switch off after 3 sec leaving handbrake,battry and oil lights only and when i start the car all the lights go out leaving handbrake light on ...dont give up on me boss

Without an engine code, it just means it is harder to find it.

It could be an air leak or even a fuel issue.

Let us know what the mechanic finds.