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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 06-18-2012, 12:31 PM   #1
jjrichar
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Project ZF 5HP19 transmission

I'm starting a new project. I enjoyed pulling the engine apart so much I decided to go and buy the transmission that was connected to it. It's the ZF 5HP19, or in BMW speak, A5S 325Z.

Link to other parts of this project

Videos
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=934274

Oil Pan and Filter
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=928251

Selector Switch
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...0#post14551400

Valve Body
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...1#post14496905

Selector Shaft and Park Lock
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...0#post14551480

Oil Pump and C Clutch
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...9#post14524869

Clutch Disassembly and Tools
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...2#post14524872

Input Assembly
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...0#post14524880

Ravigneaux Gearset
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=930184

Tower
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...4#post14524904

Output Assembly
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=931953

Transmission Assembly
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...4#post14525174

For those who are interested in what an M54 engine looks like in about 500 pieces, here is the link to the last project.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=899347

I've been keen to pull apart one of these for a long time. It's the same as the one in my car back home, as well as in my wife's Audi. As background information, BMW don't make their own transmissions. They buy them from a transmission manufacturer, in this case ZF in Germany. There are a number of different transmissions fitted to the E46, depending on the variant and the year that it was manufactured. This was the auto transmission that was fitted to the earlier 2WD models prior to them using a GM transmission.

Be aware that the 5HP19 is a group of transmissions, not just one. There were versions for rear engine (Porsche Boxter), 4WD (numerous Audi and VW), and RWD like the E46 and other BMW models. For each of these groups, there are many different versions that are slightly different. To find out which version you have, look at the green plate at the back of the transmission. You will see the serial number at the top right, and below this is the transmission version. It should read something like 1060 000 005. The 1060 means it's a 5HP19. The three numbers after, in this case 000, mean it's a BMW RWD version. The three numbers after this say specifically which version you have. This transmission I'm working on is a 005, yours may be different. When ordering parts, make sure you quote this. Most of the parts are going to be generic across the range, but some are specific to that version.

I plan to do the same thing as what I did with the engine. Dismantle and assemble it a whole bunch of times to work out what is the best way of doing things, and come up with versions of the tools for the job. Not all of this is my own work. There are a few great DIYs floating about. One that was posted here recently regarding the reverse drum failure was fantastic. My thanks to those people. Like the engine project, if you know something that is wrong, please tell me. I'm no expert, just someone who is really interested in this stuff.

As soon as you pull apart one of these transmissions, the complexity of it is astounding, and how it all works, unlike an engine, is not immediately apparent. The intellect of the people who design these things is quite humbling. They clearly breed people with big brains in Germany. I've attached links below for some documents that are essential if you plan to seriously work on your transmission. Like most documents, they are full of specific tools and procedures that are a bit difficult to understand. They are really good at telling you what to do, but not how to do it. I guess the technicians get the "how to do it" in their training.

Whilst they are complex, working on them is not rocket science. Read as much as you can, but more than anything else go slowly, take lots of photos, and mark everything well so you know where it goes.

5HP19 repair guide.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/298157350...-Repair-Manual
This is the ZF document that describes how to dismantle and assemble the transmission. Unfortunately it doesn't describe the valve body.

Valve body
http://pdfcast.org/pdf/zf-4-5-speed-auto-valve-bodies
This document has the valve body description of the this transmission, amongst a whole lot of others. Click on the hyperlink on the first page and it will scroll down to the appropriate page. Beware that this description is for the 5HP19FL model, which is for a 4WD. The valve body is slightly different to what I'm working on, but even so it's a good starting point.

01V transmission description
http://pdfcast.org/pdf/01v-transmission-description
01V is the designator that VW/Audi give to the 5HP19FL. It's the 4WD version that is in a whole lot of their cars. This is a simple, but great read if you want to find out what is going on inside the transmission. The document includes some stuff that is specific to the 4WD system, which can be ignored. Otherwise it's pretty close to the mark.

Cleanliness.
This is essential. There are loads of tiny parts, especially in the valve body. When assembling, it needs to be spotlessly clean. It will take time to clean everything and get ready for assembly. You need to be prepared and organized. Keeping the parts clean, undamaged and numbered ready for the assembly process is essential. The nice thing about transmissions is they clean up well compared to an engine. I use ziplock bags and clingfilm. This is the method I use. It's certainly not the only way, but I found it very effective at keeping things clean, and not losing track of where things went.

Have two pots of cleaning solvent (I use fuel). One is for the initial clean and the next for rinsing. Blow off the excess fluid with compressed air and pop it into a marked, new zip lock bag. Now close up the bag nearly all the way and then blow it up like a balloon. Now close it all the way. The balloon will cushion the parts inside, as well as allow any excess solvent to evaporate. Pack it away until it's time to assemble.

When you initially dismantle a component, compare what you see to the photos and diagrams in the documents. They may be slightly different. If so, take photos, lots of them. It will save you a lot of heartache later.

When assembling components together, do it in the cleanest place you have. Work out what tools you need, and have them organized and clean. Pull the part out of the ziplock bag, give it a blow with compressed air, if required lightly oil with transmission fluid and fit. Once the piece you are assembling is complete, wrap it thoroughly in cling film. Put it aside until you are ready to assemble the whole transmission.

Here are a couple of photos that show what's on the outside of the transmission.








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Last edited by jjrichar; 02-05-2016 at 01:09 PM. Reason: additions
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:15 AM   #2
ilovebeemers
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This is really cool man, are you going to install in your car after as well?
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:56 AM   #3
jjrichar
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Sounds a bit crazy, but when I get home in a couple of years, I plan to buy a cheap 325i, and put the rebuilt engine and transmission in it and use it as a run around. If it works fine, I'll rebuild the engine and transmission that I pull from that car and sell them. That's just my plan.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:59 PM   #4
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great info, thank you!
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see my garage for pics

How a Rogue IKON should look on a M-Tech II Coupe
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=537372
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:26 AM   #5
bernie21614
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Awesome project, Thanks for all the good info
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:38 PM   #6
new61n
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Nice! Very detailed posting, thanks!

Are you able to tell me if my ZF tranny is okay? i've posted this a while back.... http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=971205 . Your opinion is greatly appreciated.

PS: My car is at 85,000km and i'm planning to do a oil and filter change soon with a full flush - never had it changed before. Also because i want to change the fluid to redline, hard to source Esso LT 71141.

Last edited by new61n; 04-06-2013 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:22 AM   #7
stefanhenchoz
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The transmission description you have quoted (http://pdfsr.com/pdf/01v-transmission-description) can most of it be carried across to a BMW 5HP19? Specifically I am looking at the "Solenoid logic" table on page 59 of that document. Do the solenoids in the 01V operate in the same way as the 5HP19 fitted to my '00 330i?

Last edited by stefanhenchoz; 03-02-2016 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 03-02-2016, 12:53 PM   #8
jjrichar
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Yes the solenoids work the same way.
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:15 PM   #9
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Alright jjrichar since you asked me to post here ill summarize my problem as best I can. When I first purchased my car I got the following error code when I scanned the OBD:
"[P0741] Torque converter clutch circuit Performance or stuck off ". People told me change the Gear Filter and ATF the problem might be gone. I changed the fluid, the previous fluid was not black or anything odd and then after clearing, rescanning and driving the car 200 kms later I still had the same error.

After asking on forums people had asked me to get a Dcan cable and scan my car more throughly using INPA to see what exactly is going wrong with this transmission. After scanning using INPA I found the following:

Error 49 Gear Monitoring happened once shifting from 2->3 this was only an error that occurred once.

Error 48 TC Excessive Slip this error occurred 3 times with a total of 6 times.

Now, people told me it could be a solenoid (If it is I truly have no idea which one because I heard there is 7 on this ZF transmission or something.) Others told me to replace the Torque Converter and others told me it is also the F drum.

After clearing and driving the car again I realized my car does 0-60 in 14 seconds or so and the transmission shifts very slowly with a big delay no errors or cogs on the dashboard though it is not in limp mode. [Note there is no engine misfire or any other strange thing going on besides the transmission]

After scanning again and again with INPA the transmission is not giving any codes but the transmission is definitely not working properly and still acting very odd.

Finally, some people told me to just switch the whole transmission with a used one.

Where I am currently located I am faced with the following options:

A. Buy a solenoid somehow figure out which of the 7 solenoids is the problem get that replaced and somehow it will magically fix my whole transmission gear monitoring and TC issue.
B. Buy a TC get that replaced and pray that it works and fixes my problem cost (400-500 USD total)
C. Get my whole transmission replaced with a used TC & a used transmission for around (850 USD), only comes with 30 days of warranty and I pray for the best.
D. Buy the TC & the F drum online with some rebuild kit for the ZF containing several O rings cost (800-1000USD).

Now whatever you can recommend or tell me to do I will go ahead and do it because im honestly fed up. Been driving the car like this since I got it and its been 3 months or more.

Thank you.

Last edited by ikarah; 03-30-2016 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:07 PM   #10
jjrichar
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Download the repair guide and valve body document from above. The solenoid in question is EDS4, which controls the TC. This can be tested using INPA, you will hear it click if being activated. You can also pull it out, apply compressed air to the snout via a tube and activate using a 12v Battery to check if it's sealing OK.

I don't know where the F drum info came from, but the F clutch is only activated in 3rd, 4th, and 5th.

The error 49 means the transmission was slipping in 2nd, and it changed to 3rd as a result of this. ie the transmission was slipping when engaged in 2nd gear, and moved to 3rd in an attempt to find a gear that would work ok. Nothing to do with the F clutch.

I think you need to do some testing in manual mode. Find quiet road so you can do what you like. Select each gear individually and give it some gas without changing gear. Have INPA selected so you can see what is going on. After each have a look at the codes and then reset them. This is the only way to find out what is going on and try to diagnose.

With regard to the TC clutch, it only activates in 3rd, 4th, and 5th, so I suspect a TC clutch issue is not the problem for the slow accel. If there is a TC mechanical problem (not the clutch) you would most likely hear this. If the impeller or turbine, this would sound like the world ending, but if the stator, it might be more subtle. If you give it gas in 1st and the engine revs really well, but the car doesn't accel properly with a TC slippage code, this might be your problem. However, without a bunch of testing and results, it's going to be difficult to diagnose.

Last edited by jjrichar; 03-31-2016 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 03-31-2016, 08:52 PM   #11
ikarah
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Can I just check the solenoid by dropping the pan and using a voltmeter? How much volts should it be outputting?

I dont mind doing testing in manual mode I have INPA but, I have absolutely no idea how to check if the TC solenoid is locking up. From what I remember because, I have it in German. Last time i tested the car in real time data there were 4 solenoids showing up on the solenoid page and not labeled they just showed as 1,2,3,4. Even though there are six. Second page showed something like constant gear, gear upshift, gear downshift. Please clairfy how I can test the torque converter on INPA technically speaking.

"If you give it gas in 1st and the engine revs really well, but the car doesn't accel properly with a TC slippage code" - How come since you just said the TC doesnt activate before gear 3?

Finally, I included a video of my car accelerating so you can have a better understanding of the whole 17 second time its taking.

http://sendvid.com/yxtvql8z

Please let me know if this reveals anything.
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:37 PM   #12
jjrichar
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When I say TC slippage, I'm not talking about the TC clutch, I'm talking about the interaction between the impeller (input from the engine) and turbine (output to the transmission). This is different to the TC clutch, which locks the two together and only occurs in 3rd, 4th or 5th.

Looking at the video however, I can't see anything going wrong other than it's slow to accelerate. The RPM v's gear seems normal. For example, I know that when accelerating hard, 80 km/h is reached at about 4800 RPM, which is exactly what is happening in the video. The ratio of engine speed to output speed seems to be correct, and there is clearly no slippage. If a transmission is slipping, the RPM will rapidly rise without a corresponding rise in speed. It's quite obvious, and when it starts, the only way to stop it to take your foot off the gas.

You accelerate to 100 km/h only using 1st and 2nd gear, so the TC clutch is completely uninvolved. There may be a problem with the TC clutch (solenoid), but it has nothing to do with the slow acceleration. Are you getting any engine codes? From what I see, the engine is being restricted for some reason. This can occur for a bunch of reasons when the system is trying to protect itself.

On the subject of testing the solenoid, there are three plain solenoids (MV 1-3). These are on/off solenoids. There are four PWM solenoids (EDS 1-4, with EDS 4 being for the TC clutch), which are sent an electrical signal that can adjust the solenoid's position, rather than it being just on or off like the other three. From memory, you test these in different places in INPA, and the names they call them aren't particularly intuitive, and if in German you have an extra hurdle. A bit of Google translate might be required to work out which is which. You can simply activate each solenoid from INPA (car not running) and you will clearly hear it clicking if you are under the car.

To see if the TC clutch is locking up, accelerate slowly in manual mode. Have it in 5th by the time you get to 70 km/h. Keep accelerating slowly. At approximately 80 km/h the RPM will drop from about 2200 to about 1800. The TC clutch will lockup and release at all manner of different times, but accelerating in a slow and controlled manner like described above I've found to be the most obvious way to find if it's working or not.

Last edited by jjrichar; 03-31-2016 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:21 PM   #13
Awtrace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
When I say TC slippage, I'm not talking about the TC clutch, I'm talking about the interaction between the impeller (input from the engine) and turbine (output to the transmission). This is different to the TC clutch, which locks the two together and only occurs in 3rd, 4th or 5th.

Looking at the video however, I can't see anything going wrong other than it's slow to accelerate. The RPM v's gear seems normal. For example, I know that when accelerating hard, 80 km/h is reached at about 4800 RPM, which is exactly what is happening in the video. The ratio of engine speed to output speed seems to be correct, and there is clearly no slippage. If a transmission is slipping, the RPM will rapidly rise without a corresponding rise in speed. It's quite obvious, and when it starts, the only way to stop it to take your foot off the gas.

You accelerate to 100 km/h only using 1st and 2nd gear, so the TC clutch is completely uninvolved. There may be a problem with the TC clutch (solenoid), but it has nothing to do with the slow acceleration. Are you getting any engine codes? From what I see, the engine is being restricted for some reason. This can occur for a bunch of reasons when the system is trying to protect itself.

On the subject of testing the solenoid, there are three plain solenoids (MV 1-3). These are on/off solenoids. There are four PWM solenoids (EDS 1-4, with EDS 4 being for the TC clutch), which are sent an electrical signal that can adjust the solenoid's position, rather than it being just on or off like the other three. From memory, you test these in different places in INPA, and the names they call them aren't particularly intuitive, and if in German you have an extra hurdle. A bit of Google translate might be required to work out which is which. You can simply activate each solenoid from INPA (car not running) and you will clearly hear it clicking if you are under the car.

To see if the TC clutch is locking up, accelerate slowly in manual mode. Have it in 5th by the time you get to 70 km/h. Keep accelerating slowly. At approximately 80 km/h the RPM will drop from about 2200 to about 1800. The TC clutch will lockup and release at all manner of different times, but accelerating in a slow and controlled manner like described above I've found to be the most obvious way to find if it's working or not.

I am unable to check the tag on my transmission at this time but I need to get a filter kit and fluid to do a flush on my transmission so I was wondering if the GA5S 325Z is the same transmission used in a 2004 BMW 325Ci M56 SULEV? I ask because my only source on identification without getting underneath the car is ALLDATA and that got the type of fluid to use but was useless for filter and pan gasket. If I remember correctly, the gasket was in the same shape as the transmission you are rebuilding in the first post but I am not 100% sure.

Also, I have a problem with my vehicle as well. I just bought it about a month ago and it didn't seem to have this issue at first, or at least I didn't notice it, but when cruising (so in 3rd, 4th, or 5th depending on the speed) the rpms fluctuate every few seconds with a range of about 300rpm. It'll drop about 300 or more but no more than 500 that I've noticed, and I'll hear a "groaning" type of sound that is kind of faint unless the car is quiet and the radio is turned down. Then the rpms kick back up to the original value and it'll repeat this as long as I am cruising. The problem is also much more apparent, worse, when going up a hill (under load) situations. I haven't done testing in manual mode to check if it happens in 1st or 2nd because it's only at cruise but I could try that to eliminate the clutch. Anyways, I took it to the bimmer dealer in SLC and the foreman had to take it after several days of other techs not knowing what it could be. The next day, I am told that the TCC is engaging and disengaging when it shouldn't be resulting in the rpm fluctuation. They also took a fluid sample, said it was black, smelled pretty burnt and had some metal shavings and that I needed a $5500 transmission. Now They didn't provide me with any of the fluid sample or pictures or anything and I'm a tech at a ford dealer and have some experience with automatic trannys and can say for a fact that just cause fluid is black and has a few (not a lot) of metal flakes in it DOES not mean the transmission is toast. Now chunks of metal is obviously bad but flakes isn't the end of the world. The vehicle has 117k miles on it and maintenance suggests a flush at 105k. I've had it since it was at 115k. I suspect the transmission can be saved or "improved" by a flush as I've read many other posters suggesting and remedying their problems. I would just like some input as you've dealt with, what I suspect is, the transmission in my car.

Thank you
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:51 PM   #14
ikarah
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My car is not acclerating normally. If you watch the video I sent again notice it only goes up to about 6000 rpm and when it drops it drops below the 3500 mark. [I had my foot down the whole way]

In this video for example:



You can see that it should be going to 6500 and it should drop back down to 4k when accelerating.

My car is giving absoluetly zero error codes from the engine its only giving me the code for the TC slipping. Could I have a faulty MAF sensor but its not throwing codes or camshaft or fuel pump? Im getting 5.6 L/100km when I should be getting about 9.5+. The thing is I highly doubt it because the car has huge delays in shifts in regular driving. For example right now I had just came back from driving the car. After reaching 100km/h and my foot is completely off the pedal itll stay in gear for a good 7 seconds before dropping back down. Its ridiculous. Itll remain in high rpm for so long.
Same with shifting up itll remain revving highly and then suddenly shift and i get thrown forward. To me it seems the transmission is faulty. Thoughts..?

Last edited by ikarah; 03-31-2016 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ikarah View Post
My car is not acclerating normally. If you watch the video I sent again notice it only goes up to about 6000 rpm and when it drops it drops below the 3500 mark. [I had my foot down the whole way]

In this video for example:



You can see that it should be going to 6500 and it should drop back down to 4k when accelerating.

My car is giving absoluetly zero error codes from the engine its only giving me the code for the TC slipping. Could I have a faulty MAF sensor but its not throwing codes or camshaft or fuel pump? Im getting 5.6 L/100km when I should be getting about 9.5+. The thing is I highly doubt it because the car has huge delays in shifts in regular driving. For example right now I had just came back from driving the car. After reaching 100km/h and my foot is completely off the pedal itll stay in gear for a good 7 seconds before dropping back down. Its ridiculous. Itll remain in high rpm for so long.
Same with shifting up itll remain revving highly and then suddenly shift and i get thrown forward. To me it seems the transmission is faulty. Thoughts..?

I'm gonna be honest here. Your video showed no signs of any acceleration issues. The rpm dropped to right around 4K when it shifted, not under 3500. And it accelerates great. The engine revs and shift engagements sound great. No if you can take a video of the deceleration issue you're facing then I might have input but everything looks good to me based on that video except the DSC and Brake lamp
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:13 AM   #16
ikarah
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Youre mixing things up:

http://sendvid.com/yxtvql8z

This is my video above. The youtube video I sent is to compare to how it should be.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ikarah View Post
Youre mixing things up:



http://sendvid.com/yxtvql8z



This is my video above. The youtube video I sent is to compare to how it should be.

Oh sorry about that! I thought I read that that was your video!
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:47 PM   #18
ikarah
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Thoughts jjrichar?
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Old 04-02-2016, 03:52 AM   #19
jjrichar
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I think the reason for it dropping to a lower RPM when shifting is due to the engine not producing as much power as it should. The greater the torque from the engine, the greater difference there will be between the impeller and turbine, which translates to a higher engine RPM to the same transmission input RPM. This also shows that there is certainly no slippage throughout the transmission in these gears, as this would be shown by a higher than normal engine RPM.

If it's still giving you TC codes, then you will have to chase down why, but I think the engine is the reason for the slow accel. The MAF sensor could definitely be the culprit (living in Qatar ie. very dusty this could the case). Camshaft problems would give you a code or two. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

On the holding high RPM and not down shifting when taking your foot off the gas, this is normal with the TC clutch engaged. It will hold the TC clutch engaged for a long time for engine braking, and won't down shift until quite slow. The slow shifts normally might be something to do with the engine output.
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Old 04-02-2016, 03:56 PM   #20
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My Ride: E46 330i
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
I think the reason for it dropping to a lower RPM when shifting is due to the engine not producing as much power as it should. The greater the torque from the engine, the greater difference there will be between the impeller and turbine, which translates to a higher engine RPM to the same transmission input RPM. This also shows that there is certainly no slippage throughout the transmission in these gears, as this would be shown by a higher than normal engine RPM.

If it's still giving you TC codes, then you will have to chase down why, but I think the engine is the reason for the slow accel. The MAF sensor could definitely be the culprit (living in Qatar ie. very dusty this could the case). Camshaft problems would give you a code or two. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

On the holding high RPM and not down shifting when taking your foot off the gas, this is normal with the TC clutch engaged. It will hold the TC clutch engaged for a long time for engine braking, and won't down shift until quite slow. The slow shifts normally might be something to do with the engine output.
Ok now that you have said this I scanned my car and there is no TC slipping codes. I am getting the following codes:

P0313 : Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

I am 100% sure I have no vaccum leak I have replaced both upper and lower intake boots and also the valve cover gasket and had the car smoke tested. Also my fuel filter was just changed about 200 km ago with a brand new one. Could it be the MAF or the Fuel Pump but, it just does not want to throw any codes? What do you think now?
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