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Old 12-02-2012, 09:44 PM   #2481
2003silver330i
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Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
Yes, but when you turn on the ignition, the pump should come on and pressurize the fuel rain within moments.

Does the car smell of gasoline when you get it started? Mine did that when my injectors leaked down over time. Spilled gas into the intake to flood the car. New injectors cured my problem.
The car smells of gasoline from the rear of the vehicle. I don't smell any gas under the hood if that helps. The injectors on my car are pretty noisy (not sure if that is the norm for these cars).

EDIT: I started thinking about what you said and injectors make more sense than an issue with my fuel filter/regulator. On start-up the car fires up right away, so that got me to thinking that it couldn't be the fuel filter/regulator like you said.

Last edited by 2003silver330i; 12-02-2012 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:29 PM   #2482
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Some finer points:
My car smelled of gas strong from the rear when it would start.

But mine (when flooded from sitting for and hour or so), would not start up for a few secs. Then it would run rough till it burned off the gas. Would not catch and then quit like yours.
So I guess it's worth considering as leaky injectors would not necessarily manifest themselves as the exact same set of symptoms.

I'm curious to know what solves your problem after you get it sorted. Please come back to explain.
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:17 AM   #2483
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I have been trying to track this issue down for so long that it just doesn't make sense anymore. These cars seem to create different symptoms for the same bad part. At first I thought blown head gasket but after owning the car since February and as much water that I have put in the car to top it off each week would have by now surely filled up the oil pan full of water or manifested some sign of oil in the coolant.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:34 PM   #2484
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I finally did this job on Monday. So far the cold idle jolts are gone. I feel like I have gained a little low rpm torque but can't say for sure. I changed spark plugs and vcg.
For a beginner like me I would rate the job 5/10. Not that hard but it takes time when you want to make sure you do everything right. Beisan instructions where definitely a must have, of course. Took me about 8 hours.

I have a question though: before the repair, my car would have a jolting idle when warming up, and would sometime hesitate when giving gas at lower rpms (taking off in 2nd gear for instance). Also, it once had a misfire on cylinder 5 after not using the car for more than a week. Clearing the code got the cylinder to fire again and it never happened again.

Now, after the seals replacement, idle is fine but the car still hesitates at lower rpm. And today coming back from work cylinder 5 misfired again (first time it ever starts misfiring when driving). I cleared codes and it runs fine. I thought well maybe I should reset adaptation values so that it starts from scratch with a fresh vanos. I reset them tonight and will report back.

If the misfire happens again I will swap the coil with another cylinder. Then maybe compression and leak down tests if need be. Intake has no leaks, boots are 2 years old, icv and disa are clean, air filter is new. Did a sea foam treatment two month ago (intake fuel and crank case) and changed the oil afterwards. It did improve idle but vanos was still to be done. Exhaust cps is new. I only use castrol LL-01 5w40.

If anyone has an idea please chime in!

Sorry if this post doesn't make sense. I am writing on a cell phone.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:46 PM   #2485
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I have no idea about your hesitation. All I know is I had my vanos and solenoid replaced it still had idle issues. The thing that fixed it is they replaced the whole camshaft also.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:49 PM   #2486
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Originally Posted by El Polo View Post
I finally did this job on Monday. So far the cold idle jolts are gone. I feel like I have gained a little low rpm torque but can't say for sure. I changed spark plugs and vcg.
For a beginner like me I would rate the job 5/10. Not that hard but it takes time when you want to make sure you do everything right. Beisan instructions where definitely a must have, of course. Took me about 8 hours.

I have a question though: before the repair, my car would have a jolting idle when warming up, and would sometime hesitate when giving gas at lower rpms (taking off in 2nd gear for instance). Also, it once had a misfire on cylinder 5 after not using the car for more than a week. Clearing the code got the cylinder to fire again and it never happened again.

Now, after the seals replacement, idle is fine but the car still hesitates at lower rpm. And today coming back from work cylinder 5 misfired again (first time it ever starts misfiring when driving). I cleared codes and it runs fine. I thought well maybe I should reset adaptation values so that it starts from scratch with a fresh vanos. I reset them tonight and will report back.

If the misfire happens again I will swap the coil with another cylinder. Then maybe compression and leak down tests if need be. Intake has no leaks, boots are 2 years old, icv and disa are clean, air filter is new. Did a sea foam treatment two month ago (intake fuel and crank case) and changed the oil afterwards. It did improve idle but vanos was still to be done. Exhaust cps is new. I only use castrol LL-01 5w40.

If anyone has an idea please chime in!

Sorry if this post doesn't make sense. I am writing on a cell phone.
Congrats on the repair!

You have another performance problem, so you won't receive the benefits of the new seals until this problem is resolved.
I've posted on this thread multiple times a list of common performance problems.

Thanks for the feedback!
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:26 PM   #2487
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Can't wait to do this mod. A little bit skeptical at first, but after some reading looks pretty straight foward. I believe I'm having some symptoms, lower end jerkiness in first gear, and loss of power in the lower rpms.. I've tried almost everything else, air filter, maf cleaning, new boots, tb/icv cleaning, disa, fuel filter, vcg, various o-rings...Hopefully this will do the trick...Anything to look out for or be careful with when removing the vanos?
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Last edited by E46Snowball; 02-24-2013 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:27 PM   #2488
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Nothing that has not been mentioned a thousand times before.

When instructions say threads are CW to loosen, it is still a head trip to get convention out of your head when you actually put the torx in there.

And never use a Victor Reinz VCG as a huge number leak oil after a correct install.

Last edited by Stinger9; 02-25-2013 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:51 AM   #2489
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Can't wait to do this mod. A little bit skeptical at first, but after some reading looks pretty straight foward. I believe I'm having some symptoms, lower end jerkiness in first gear, and loss of power in the lower rpms.. I've tried almost everything else, air filter, maf cleaning, new boots, tb/icv cleaning, disa, fuel filter, vcg, various o-rings...Hopefully this will do the trick...Anything to look out for or be careful with when removing the vanos?
The most important thing is to print the instructions and follow them step by step.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:56 AM   #2490
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The most important thing is to print the instructions and follow them step by step.
Will do!
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Last edited by E46Snowball; 02-25-2013 at 02:59 AM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:59 AM   #2491
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Nothing that has not been mentioned a thousand times before.

When instructions say threads are CW to loosen, it is still a head trip to get convention out of your head when you actually put the torx in there.

And never use a Victor Reinz VCG as a huge number leak oil ever after a correct install.
Well thats great, exact gasket I used for my vcg...what do you recommend then for vcg, do you know who is the oem supplier....? I guess I could just search but I'm lazy.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:29 AM   #2492
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I used victor reinz and mine started leaking at the front. I wish I read that before doing mine
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:43 AM   #2493
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Rajaie,

I purchased your VANOS seals kit w/ the anti-rattle kit for my 330i ZHP last year and have to say that my car has performed flawlessly ever since. I was amazed just how much low end torque I regained after installing your kit. The instructions were valuable and I can't thank you enough. One question I do have is should I be considering replacing my seals @ 60k intervals? I will say that this is an in-depth job but can be done in a day if you have all the right tools available and take your time. This was the first time I have ever taken my VANOS apart and I found it quite interesting. As for replacement gaskets I stayed with BMW OEM gaskets.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:58 AM   #2494
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Is there a reason that you chose vac motorsports for your vanos? I might be in the process of buying one and replacing mine. Does vac rebuild as many parts as dr. Vanos? Anyway let me know your conclusion after your research between the two.

Thanks
Sorry I missed this until now. A little late to reply, but better than never.

I went with VAC simply because I had some more parts to order and they carry stuff that Dr VANOS does not. VAC does rebuild all the parts within the VANOS that Dr VANOS does. They insinuate that they rebuilt to tighter tolerances, but I have no way of confirming that. They provide new VANOS gears, whereas Dr VANOS does not.

I'm happy with the end product, but I will never deal with VAC again. Their customer support was abhorrent. They provided no instructions with the kit and had none on their website. I had to use Dr VANOS' instructions, yet ran into a snag because VAC gives you new gears with their unit and Dr VANOS does not. I wasn't sure how to go about pulling the gears off, as they provided no instructions. It took 4 phone calls and 4 hours of downtime for me to get an answer out of them. The first "tech" I talked to was mixing up my kit with a single VANOS (despite taking my order number and looking up the product they sold me, and despite me explaining the situation to him), and telling me I had to have the car towed to a shop because I messed the timing up by pulling the VANOS unit off without cam blocks to hold things in place. I talked to 3 people before I actually found someone that understood the question I was asking. Even he wasn't much help. This all could have been avoided with some instructions provided for the end user.

When I pointed this out, they actually had the audacity to ask me to email them Dr VANOS' instructions so they could review them and put something similar on their website. It's not my job to help you rip off your competitors.

Then after the job was done it took me 6 week of prodding via phone calls for me to get the core charge refunded from them. Mind you, this is 6 weeks after they received the core part back (confirmed by FedEX tracking). Every time I called up, it was a different story. Someone is in a meeting..they looked at it, they haven't looked at it...they issued the refund and it takes a few days...oops, they made a mistake and hadn't issued it...what was that track number and order number again, we don't have a record of it? We've been short staffed, someone is on vacation, someone doesn't work here anymore and we cant find his files...etc.

Never again. If you want to get a rebuilt unit, go with Dr VANOS. I've dealt with him in the past and everything has always gone fine without any hangups. I determined that including downtime during the job, on hold on phone calls, and talking to VAC people trying to get all the problems sorted out, I wasted about 7 hours of my time. Not worth it. There are plenty of other vendors out there who sell BMW parts and don't make the experience like pulling teeth to deal with them. They may have some well engineered products, but i'm not willing to deal with their complete lack of organization and complete lack of customer service.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:00 AM   #2495
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Rajaie,

I purchased your VANOS seals kit w/ the anti-rattle kit for my 330i ZHP last year and have to say that my car has performed flawlessly ever since. I was amazed just how much low end torque I regained after installing your kit. The instructions were valuable and I can't thank you enough. One question I do have is should I be considering replacing my seals @ 60k intervals? I will say that this is an in-depth job but can be done in a day if you have all the right tools available and take your time. This was the first time I have ever taken my VANOS apart and I found it quite interesting. As for replacement gaskets I stayed with BMW OEM gaskets.
Congrats on the repair and results, and thanks for the nice feedback.

The seals are doing very well and so far we have not assessed an age limit. They are still working well on cars with very high miles. We suspect they will last the life of the car.
The rattle kit is a permanent solution.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:08 AM   #2496
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The valve cover gaskets OEM manufacturer is Gloeckler. But it is not usually available aftermarket.
A good place to buy OEM parts is www.getbmwparts.com. This is Tischer BMW in Maryland. They list MSRP and provide a 20% discount from that. Amazing!
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:44 AM   #2497
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Congrats on the repair and results, and thanks for the nice feedback.

The seals are doing very well and so far we have not assessed an age limit. They are still working well on cars with very high miles. We suspect they will last the life of the car.
The rattle kit is a permanent solution.
Now that is great news to hear! Appreciate all the work and feedback you continue to provide to the BMW community! Great job!
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #2498
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:21 AM   #2499
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I noticed that after about 50 km of city driving, the engine started to make a slight resonance / running rough kind of sound, when it has not yet reached the normal operating temperature. The sound comes and goes between 1000-1200 rpm under acceleration. The sound is not present if I just rev the engine while parking = no load. The engine gives full torque even though the sound is there, but the sound disappears after the engine becomes warm.
I quote myself here now, and still have the sound. It actually got even louder during winter (cold weather). I did the vanos seals last summer. This resonance sound under load at 1000 rpm still exist. I suspect several things incl. exhaust brackets, manifold, cats, engine covers etc, but could this kind of sound come from a vanos unit, if the nuts were not fully tightened? I actually got maybe 50 % of the sound away by removing the plastic engine cover on top of the intake manifold, but I believe the very source of the sound still exists.

When I installed the vanos unit to the engine head, I used a new vanos metal gasket. I did not have a torque wrench available, so I just used a 1/4" small wrench and tightened all nuts and bolts by feel. However, I was worried about snapping the long stud bolts, so I could only tighten the leftmost and rightmost nut/bolt to feel like it was fully tightened. The lower nuts had this feeling that they did not get any more tighter and I was afraid of snapping the studs, so I left them a little bit looser than the 2 at the ends. Can the new vanos metal gasket cause this kind of feeling that right at the end the nuts feel like the torque remains the same while the gasket shrinks and makes a better seal, like with torquing down new spark plugs? I am going to check the tightness of these nuts soon, but has somebody found a similar issue? Is it safe to tighten all these nuts so that you feel they are "fully tightened", or does the 8 Nm torque feel like they are still a little bit loose?

Last edited by F5D; 03-16-2013 at 05:23 AM.
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:04 PM   #2500
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I quote myself here now, and still have the sound. It actually got even louder during winter (cold weather). I did the vanos seals last summer. This resonance sound under load at 1000 rpm still exist. I suspect several things incl. exhaust brackets, manifold, cats, engine covers etc, but could this kind of sound come from a vanos unit, if the nuts were not fully tightened? I actually got maybe 50 % of the sound away by removing the plastic engine cover on top of the intake manifold, but I believe the very source of the sound still exists.

When I installed the vanos unit to the engine head, I used a new vanos metal gasket. I did not have a torque wrench available, so I just used a 1/4" small wrench and tightened all nuts and bolts by feel. However, I was worried about snapping the long stud bolts, so I could only tighten the leftmost and rightmost nut/bolt to feel like it was fully tightened. The lower nuts had this feeling that they did not get any more tighter and I was afraid of snapping the studs, so I left them a little bit looser than the 2 at the ends. Can the new vanos metal gasket cause this kind of feeling that right at the end the nuts feel like the torque remains the same while the gasket shrinks and makes a better seal, like with torquing down new spark plugs? I am going to check the tightness of these nuts soon, but has somebody found a similar issue? Is it safe to tighten all these nuts so that you feel they are "fully tightened", or does the 8 Nm torque feel like they are still a little bit loose?
The engine cover has rubber pads to prevent rattling. You can inspect these and get new ones if they are missing.
I don't have experience with your rattle, so I don't know what about the vanos could cause this.
The studs on the head for mounting the vanos can be easily stripped out of the head. Yours might be on the way. You can remove the loosening ones and install a helicoil in the head and that will make them stronger.

Here is a list of things that can cause a rattle.
Low engine oil level
Low power steering oil level or power steering pump
Alternator
Broken exhaust hanger at the transmission
Idler and tensioner pulleys
01+ 3.0l DISA
Hydraulic lifter
Loose sparkplug
Vanos
Water pump, but this is more of a churning noise than rattle.
Pre 01/00 M52TU production cars can have an oil pump rattle on cold starts.
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