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Old 11-26-2012, 08:49 PM   #1
tepps
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no heat

2002 330, customer brought in recently purchased. looks like it had been in a front end wreck. No heat, I have replaced water pump, reservoir ,T stat, trans Tstat,back bled and flushed heater core 4 times. flushed block from water pump to water valve.. consistantly get what I consider a poor flow to the water valve... sometimes I can get heat after bleeding and rev engine up to 4000 rpm, but then it goes away.. I can monitor heat exchanger with scanner and heater core is usually 75 degrees f. Disconnect water valve, always get codes 1c 1e and 18???? how can I get a description of the climate control codes???? cant find them anywhere..temp gauge always shows in middle and computer says about 204 F car never overheats.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:59 PM   #2
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One thing is that our cars seem to hate aftermarket therms, so if it wasn't wahler (OE) then that might be it.

Then, if you weren't a mechanic, I'd suggest you bleed again.

With car cold, fill ET to between min and max. Close cap and bleeder screw.

Key to position 2 (don't start), heater on highest temp, fan on, 3 red dots in center vent. Then start car, rev to 4K rpms for 20 secs. and turn car off.

Check coolant level...if it dropped, that's great. Fill again to between min and max and do this again.

There are a number of spots that get air bubbles.

It's possible the water valve is malfunctioning too...some have 'knocked' it to get it unstuck, but they do go bad on rare occasion.

Only other issue I can think of with the front end collision, is a damaged wire to therm. If you wanted to check the therm, you could just remove the therm from housing and try again. It'll be 'broken open' but that's better than stuck closed.

Oh, also, there've been times the belts were routed the wrong way too...nothing personal! That could affect wp enough to show your symptoms too, I'd think.

HTH a bit!

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Last edited by dmax; 11-26-2012 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:16 PM   #3
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This is not a bleeding or thermostat issue. What are you using to scan...that will help us tell you what the codes mean. Sounds like the heater valve if flow is poor and the core never warms up, though.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:53 PM   #4
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Possibly old wp took a **** and clogged something?

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Old 11-27-2012, 07:01 AM   #5
tepps
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no heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by lcoleman View Post
This is not a bleeding or thermostat issue. What are you using to scan...that will help us tell you what the codes mean. Sounds like the heater valve if flow is poor and the core never warms up, though.
Autel scanner, very good, gives codes and data, control of climate control flaps etc. but no explanation of climate control codes.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:07 AM   #6
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There have been a few posts lately where the heater control valve were clogged or defective.

You will get codes when disconnecting sensors or other control parts, this can be normal so I would not get too overly concerned.

I would say plan on replacing the heater control valve and hope this resolves your problem.

You may see obvious problems once you remove it??
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:31 AM   #7
tepps
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no heat

No heat, consistently get codes 1C 1E 18. ??? anybody know how to get info on these codes???.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:35 AM   #8
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why did you repost this? you already have a thread.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:08 AM   #9
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What type of heater control do you have buddy
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:59 PM   #10
tepps
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No heat

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Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
why did you repost this? you already have a thread.
I reposted this because I thought that I had asked too many questions before, and would focus on one issue, the cc codes that are present. Why are you asking me this ???? I am trying to find answers to specific car problems.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:27 PM   #11
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Can you try bypassing the heater control valve?
This will tell you if the problem is due to faulty valve / valve control or to clogged heater core / pipes or hoses to and from the heater core.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:54 AM   #12
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Thats what I was going to say Megalocnus is right... the little pistons inside these valves have rubber seats on them that rot over the years... this happend on my E36 M3// I had no heat and though ''head gasket'' engine temp stayed ok though. I opend up the heater contol valve and it was all falling to bits and just letting cold feed water through... I basicly connected the hot feeds together and as a result pure hot air...
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:47 PM   #13
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where are these heater control valves?
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:26 AM   #14
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https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...yjV7-4rSAdguNV
they look like this

and once open they may look like this...with bits of rubber all mashed up
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...j-hsnqBqVl-Ccg

The style of these unit change a little so the shape may not be the same... type into google 'BMW e46 heater control valve' and look at images.
hth

Last edited by Silverstalker; 12-02-2012 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:07 AM   #15
tepps
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no heat

I bypassedheat control valve last week. What I have is extremely poor circulation from water pump, cylinder head hose. I have removed hose from heat control valve and run it back into coolant reservoir,then rev up engine. almost no flow until 4000 rpm.. Since I am reluctant too remove intake manifold, and explore into cylinder head for blockages, I decided to remove heat valve and install a "booster pump" through heater core.THis works very well and customer now has heat.Albeit without help of control except for the blower fan..Financial considerations from the customer have limited further diagnoses.AS we have already installed Coolant reservoir(old one bondo patched) water pump, thermostat, transmission cooler T stat, old one broken and filled with silicone as gasket.Heater core return hose.I have back flushed heater core 4 times and inspected the results in large bucket. had thermostat on off 4 times to blow through cylinder head( no restrictions,likewise water pump. etc. etc. This is the second time I have installed a " booster pump to produce heat . either at Idle or low rpms. sometimes too much time and money to dig into engine or heater core replace. Tepps
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tepps View Post
I bypassedheat control valve last week. What I have is extremely poor circulation from water pump, cylinder head hose. I have removed hose from heat control valve and run it back into coolant reservoir,then rev up engine. almost no flow until 4000 rpm.. Since I am reluctant too remove intake manifold, and explore into cylinder head for blockages, I decided to remove heat valve and install a "booster pump" through heater core.THis works very well and customer now has heat.Albeit without help of control except for the blower fan..Financial considerations from the customer have limited further diagnoses.AS we have already installed Coolant reservoir(old one bondo patched) water pump, thermostat, transmission cooler T stat, old one broken and filled with silicone as gasket.Heater core return hose.I have back flushed heater core 4 times and inspected the results in large bucket. had thermostat on off 4 times to blow through cylinder head( no restrictions,likewise water pump. etc. etc. This is the second time I have installed a " booster pump to produce heat . either at Idle or low rpms. sometimes too much time and money to dig into engine or heater core replace. Tepps
Did you try cleaning the heater core itself before doing 'booster pumps'? what does a booster pump even look like?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverstalker View Post
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...yjV7-4rSAdguNV
they look like this

and once open they may look like this...with bits of rubber all mashed up
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...j-hsnqBqVl-Ccg

The style of these unit change a little so the shape may not be the same... type into google 'BMW e46 heater control valve' and look at images.
hth
thanks, i found it yesterday on my car
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:42 PM   #17
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Sounds like a case of a neglected, ghetto repaired car.
Glad you have a solution within the customer's budget to make the heating work.
I won't be surprised if the heater core is clogged either by a precipitate (improper coolant mix, hard water, etc.) or by a "magic" sealant (if they tried to fix a radiator leak in the past).

There is a lot of animosity on this forum about what mechanics charge us for car repairs, but we don't see what you guys have to deal with sometimes.
I don't think I'd like to work on cars like this one, no matter what they'll pay...

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