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Old 11-27-2012, 04:51 PM   #21
MarcusLSB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by str8dum1 View Post
like others have said, you need a taller tire not wider.
+1
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:54 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MarcusLSB View Post
+1
Thanks for all the inputs! Ok, so I have had good success with Nitto555's. Currently running 305 35, and the consensus is clearly taller not wider. Got that. I do hate a really high sidewall, but i guess the same consensus would say go 305 45; Nitto has a 305 40, but not sure how different that would be from a 35. Again, my goal is second gear rolling traction more than 1st gear out the hole. I don't do a lot of hard launches.

With that in mind, any consensus on 40 vs 45?

Thanks
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:02 PM   #23
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Gotta do alot of work just for the 295/45 so a 305/45 would be ever harder. 305/40 is doable with higher ride height

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Old 11-27-2012, 07:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeR View Post
Thanks for all the inputs! Ok, so I have had good success with Nitto555's. Currently running 305 35, and the consensus is clearly taller not wider. Got that. I do hate a really high sidewall, but i guess the same consensus would say go 305 45; Nitto has a 305 40, but not sure how different that would be from a 35. Again, my goal is second gear rolling traction more than 1st gear out the hole. I don't do a lot of hard launches.

With that in mind, any consensus on 40 vs 45?

Thanks
Nitto NT555r 305/35 ride height = 26.42"
Nitto NT555r 305/40 ride height = 27.72"
MT 275/40/17 ride height = 26"
MT 295/45/17 ride height = 27.2

Taza fit the MT 295/45 and said he had to do a lot of cutting. Would you be able to fit another .5" in height AND another .5" in width? Only way to tell is to try! If you fit it and you still have traction issues, I will be amazed!
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:12 AM   #25
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the M&H 275/45/18 work awesome as well. I used those for a season and they hook very good on the street.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:25 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by str8dum1 View Post
the M&H 275/45/18 work awesome as well. I used those for a season and they hook very good on the street.
Thanks. What set up are u running (turbo? whp? Etc). I had pretty solid traction in 2nd with older 67mm but the 6766 is different animal all together.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:54 PM   #27
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I have a set of R888 18 275 40 for the rears. I had them mounted and immediately unmounted during the summer because the car need to be raised a little to accommodate the larger diameter tire. Original tire was the R888 18 295 30. I have the original tires back on the car till I have time to raise the car and dial in the suspension. I MIGHT consider selling them. Still has the sticker on both tires. I'll be getting the 6766 during the spring so that's what's making me want to keep them for now.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:57 PM   #28
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This was not mentioned in this thread so . . . .
The inner fenders can provide a little more clearance via
the ol' "spray and bang" process as long as a rear strut bar
has been installed so that nothing moves. Every little bit
helps.

Jim
Outer fender lips cut every 2" and tucked flat and painted.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:51 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jim Murphy View Post
This was not mentioned in this thread so . . . .
The inner fenders can provide a little more clearance via
the ol' "spray and bang" process as long as a rear strut bar
has been installed so that nothing moves. Every little bit
helps.

Jim
Outer fender lips cut every 2" and tucked flat and painted.

I would NOT dare to hammer the chasis..... no way.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:06 PM   #30
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I would NOT dare to hammer the chasis..... no way.
I am NOT talking about any major movement of metal on the inner fender just enough for clearance (painted area does not get "touched") and only after a rear strut bar "closes the top of the open box" thus making the suspension geometry much tougher to move. And I always check the rear alignment (using 4 wheel process) afterwards as well. I have done this to many, many cars since the 1970's.

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Old 12-08-2012, 12:11 PM   #31
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Hey Jake,

check this out ...

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...ine_times.html

Quote:
Those that have found the limits of the NT555R will no doubt find the NT05R to be what they need; it should open the eyes of a great many who use other brands as well.

Read more: http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...#ixzz2ETuNrmwC
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:05 PM   #32
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Nitto NT05

Thanks. Very interesting! Will likely go with 18 315 40. Has anyone else with 6766 run these?
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:08 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeR View Post
Thanks. Very interesting! Will likely go with 18 315 40. Has anyone else with 6766 run these?
I dont think any m3 has ran a tire that size without some body work. I however want to run a 18/295/40. Just wish nitto made this size for the nt05

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Old 12-10-2012, 11:48 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by InDiGlOM3 View Post
I dont think any m3 has ran a tire that size without some body work. I however want to run a 18/295/40. Just wish nitto made this size for the nt05

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I'm currently running the 305 35. Only modification was pounding on back/center side of fender well b/c running deep offset (38). Looks like these tires are only .2" wider, and 1.25" greater in diameter/height. So unless I'm missing something - which is very possible - I just need to raise rear car -adjustable coilovers - by that much and shoud be good to go.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:20 PM   #35
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I'm trying on Thu. 555R's in 285/18/40 ... Let's see how these work. It's supposedly a taller tire than what was tried so far. My only aim is to just get some traction in 2nd and full traction in 3rd. Will update on the progress.
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HPF Stage 2.5 - 739rwhp & 581ft-lbs SAE
best 1/4 mile (ST2) 11.77'@123mph 1.9' R/T on Toyo R888 295/30/19
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:45 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by JakeR View Post
I'm currently running the 305 35. Only modification was pounding on back/center side of fender well b/c running deep offset (38). Looks like these tires are only .2" wider, and 1.25" greater in diameter/height. So unless I'm missing something - which is very possible - I just need to raise rear car -adjustable coilovers - by that much and shoud be good to go.
be careful with the raising of the rear. after a certain point it does work in a negative manner.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:06 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo_S54 View Post
be careful with the raising of the rear. after a certain point it does work in a negative manner.
What is the optimal height to avoid both positive camber (helpful on track) as well as negative camber (to prevent loss of traction on straight line pulls)?
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Pulled the trigger! Built engine + 6766 Dual BB + Open Dump + 15/23 PSI - Holy F#@$ this build is insane!

HPF Stage 2.5 - 739rwhp & 581ft-lbs SAE
best 1/4 mile (ST2) 11.77'@123mph 1.9' R/T on Toyo R888 295/30/19
Porsche Cayenne Turbo S - stock
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:59 PM   #38
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Rear Height

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo_S54 View Post
be careful with the raising of the rear. after a certain point it does work in a negative manner.
So Mert, attached is pic of my M. I'm not with car but woud estimate its about 1" above tire currently. I'd have to go up another 1-1.25 to clear. Thoughts?
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:03 PM   #39
JakeR
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Originally Posted by dragosid View Post
I'm trying on Thu. 555R's in 285/18/40 ... Let's see how these work. It's supposedly a taller tire than what was tried so far. My only aim is to just get some traction in 2nd and full traction in 3rd. Will update on the progress.
FYI, I have full traction in 3rd with 305 35's Nitto 555's. I have some traction in 2nd, but limited - maybe 1/2 throttle. Goal is full tration in 2nd. Are you running 6766?
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:10 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeR View Post
So Mert, attached is pic of my M. I'm not with car but woud estimate its about 1" above tire currently. I'd have to go up another 1-1.25 to clear. Thoughts?
Raising it will only help so much. The space constraint, as I would imagine and have been told will be where the tire meets the side skirt area and the rear bumper.
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