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Old 10-08-2012, 06:37 PM   #1
2003silver330i
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???s about removing/replacing throttle body

I have a couple questions about removing the throttle body. Is it necessary to pull out the dipstick tube to get the TB out?

Also according to http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/04/50 I will need to clear the adaptation values. I don't own a DIS tester so I was wondering if I can just clear the DTC codes with the Peake code reader and cycling the key a few times on and off for 10 seconds? Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:26 AM   #2
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I've had my TB off for maintenance while doing the CCV on both my cars now. I don't remember the dipstick needing to come off. Just the intake tubes, ICV, DISA. I can't comment on putting in a new TB all together, but just to remove your old one for cleaning and re-installing it, you shouldn't have any issues with codes.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:07 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. I'm installing a new TB because I believe the old one is bad that is why I asked about the adaptation process. I'm hoping I don't need to spend $400 for a DIS tester.

Last edited by 2003silver330i; 10-09-2012 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:19 AM   #4
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I have a TB for sale. Let me know. You don't need to pull the dipstick. Make sure you get a new gasket
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:27 AM   #5
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Thanks Mango. I already ordered one before I saw your post.

Anyone know of a way of adapting a new EDK throttle body without purchasing a tester?
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:36 PM   #6
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Just remove the screw that holds the dipstick (and screw the screw back in place to avoid losing it) and move the dipstick toward the driver side front tire.

That should give you plenty of room to work with.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:41 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 2003silver330i View Post
Thanks Mango. I already ordered one before I saw your post.

Anyone know of a way of adapting a new EDK throttle body without purchasing a tester?
Some say you don't need to. Just try it and see what happens.
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:26 PM   #8
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Thanks for the reply. I'm installing a new TB because I believe the old one is bad that is why I asked about the adaptation process. I'm hoping I don't need to spend $400 for a DIS tester.
Why do you believe it's bad? It's pretty rare to hear of one going bad...at least to me it is and I read a lot of posts.

Cleaning with tb cleaner...ditto the icv...replace gasket.

Clean icv like mofo on crack, doing it from every angle.

Do not reassemble and start car too soon...let it dry. Clean maf.

But all that said, you know you can talk with us, right? Just sit back and tell us why you 'believe' you need a tb...not arguing...just suggesting lots here know stuff and share it for free...practically free that is. If you say something stupid, we'll rip you to shreds!
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:05 PM   #9
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Why do you believe it's bad? It's pretty rare to hear of one going bad...at least to me it is and I read a lot of posts.

Cleaning with tb cleaner...ditto the icv...replace gasket.

Clean icv like mofo on crack, doing it from every angle.

Do not reassemble and start car too soon...let it dry. Clean maf.

But all that said, you know you can talk with us, right? Just sit back and tell us why you 'believe' you need a tb...not arguing...just suggesting lots here know stuff and share it for free...practically free that is. If you say something stupid, we'll rip you to shreds!
I understand dmax but if I'm going to remove it to just clean it I might as well replace it just in case cleaning the TB doesn't solve the issue. The car is stuck out in BFE and don't want to make several trips out there. I have already sprayed the TB on several occasions and it did not solve the issue. My issue is the car is in limp mode and won't even go 5MPHs. I keep getting variations of codes 73, 77, 87 and I believe one other code. It is either a bad TB (145K miles) or the engine wiring harness is fried would be my best guess. From inspection I didn't see any bad, burnt, or mangled wires so I'm going to assume it is the TB.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:16 PM   #10
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Here is a link to my original post. I only got a couple possibilities of what could be causing it but none of them panned out so the next logical thing was replacing the TB. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ight=eml+light

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Old 10-10-2012, 10:15 PM   #11
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I was able to get the car home tonight so I can work on it tomorrow. When you turn the key to the ON position (not start) the throttle body starts fluttering like crazy searching and searching for the adaptation values and it never finds it and just flutters the whole time the key is left in the ON position. I cycled the key on and off at least 15 times to get it to stop searching/fluttering long enough to start the car and drive it home.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:31 PM   #12
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New throttle body installed. Drove around for 15 minutes with no codes. Time will tell if that did fix the issue.

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Old 10-23-2012, 12:43 PM   #13
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New throttle body installed. Drove around for 15 minutes with no codes. Time will tell if that did fix the issue.
By any chance did this fix every thing?
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:44 PM   #14
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I have a TB for sale. $80 shipped works perfectly.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:03 PM   #15
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By any chance did this fix every thing?
Not sure what you mean by fix everything. If you mean did it fix all of my throttle body codes then the answer would be yes. I have not had an issue or code since replacing it.


EDIT: Wanted to add that I have put over 600 miles on the new TB.

Last edited by 2003silver330i; 10-23-2012 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:06 PM   #16
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Not sure what you mean by fix everything. If you mean did it fix all of my throttle body codes then the answer would be yes. I have not had an issue or code since replacing it.
I had faith in you. DMAX didn't. Sometimes dmax has doubts about fanatics intentions when replacing parts. i say just let them replace parts dmax. its better than sad face
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:30 PM   #17
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I understand dmax but if I'm going to remove it to just clean it I might as well replace it just in case cleaning the TB doesn't solve the issue. The car is stuck out in BFE and don't want to make several trips out there. I have already sprayed the TB on several occasions and it did not solve the issue. My issue is the car is in limp mode and won't even go 5MPHs. I keep getting variations of codes 73, 77, 87 and I believe one other code. It is either a bad TB (145K miles) or the engine wiring harness is fried would be my best guess. From inspection I didn't see any bad, burnt, or mangled wires so I'm going to assume it is the TB.
Just spraying the tb sometimes is not enough. Try spraying it and also scrubing it with a wire brush including the sides of the plate. When your done it will be working like new and you shouldnt have to worry about it for a while.

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Old 10-23-2012, 10:34 PM   #18
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Just spraying the tb sometimes is not enough. Try spraying it and also scrubing it with a wire brush including the sides of the plate. When your done it will be working like new and you shouldnt have to worry about it for a while.

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I cleaned it the best I could with a rag and sprayed it many times and the problem persisted. Believe me that thing was clean enough to eat off of. The TB was not stuck open or closed from dirt. It would flutter open and closed constantly. This was definitely an electrical EDK issue.

Last edited by 2003silver330i; 10-23-2012 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:37 PM   #19
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Sometimes spraying it or cleaning it won't solve the issue if the potentiometers are not working properly....In this case the whole tb does need to be replaced.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:40 PM   #20
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Sometimes spraying it or cleaning it won't solve the issue if the potentiometers are not working properly....In this case the whole tb does need to be replaced.
1000+ miles later and I have never had the codes again, so replacing the whole TB solved my issue where cleaning it thoroughly did not.
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