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Photography
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#1 |
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Registered User
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WTB: Camera for indoor hockey photos
I'm looking to get into a entry/mid level setup for shooting indoor hockey pictures. I am having no luck with basic cameras, most likely due to the low lighting in some cases and fast movement.
I'm looking to spend around $500-$1000 maybe more depending on what is needed. If someone could recommend a decent setup that would be great! LMK |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Canon G15 is great for low light (f1.8-f2.8) is a fantastic $500 crossover from point and shoot to dslr.
Otherwise, you will need a DSLR and lens rated at f1.4 or f1.8 ideally. Something like Canon T4i + 28mm f1.8 or 50mm f1.4 or 100mm f2.8 (needs more light) or 135mm f2.0 ($1000) depending on how close you are to the action and how wide you want to shoot. If you need more telephoto than 135mm, you are looking at big bucks for a low light (f2.8) tele lens ($1500+) You could do a Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 lens if you do not need real low light and want more flexibility. For $1700 you could do a Canon T41 or 60D and a Canon 17-55mm IS USM f2.8 which has a stabilizer. If I had to pick a system sight unseen, I would do a 60D+ 50mm f1.8 and 135mm f2.0 and go from there. ($799+99+999=$1900 retail) You can buy the 60D with 18-135mm for $999 and add a 50mm for $100 so $1100. The 18-135mm is not low light, but it is worth $400+ so for $200 great value as walk around lens outside of hockey.
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) Last edited by GlockMan; 12-13-2012 at 07:36 AM. |
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#3 |
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SensFan
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: [Ottawa | Canada]
Posts: 381
My Ride: 2012 Audi Q7 S-Line
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I would say the MINIMUM focal length you would want is 100mm, anything less is too wide for hockey. I shoot hockey with Canon 70-200L 2.8 IS II and it is unreal!
You will find though the range you will need is probably 135mm+, otherwise you will be cropping like crazy and losing quality IMHO.
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Canon 5D MKII Gripped | 17-40L | 35L | 85L II | 16-35L II | 70-200 2.8L IS II | 580EX II | 430EX II |
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#4 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
There's a Canon 200mm f2.8L that's cheaper than the 70-200 but you sacrifice the zoom. It can be had for ~$800ish. Try to buy used if you can. Otherwise, as has been said, get a Canon G series camera and call it a day. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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A P&S or entry level SLR is not going to keep up with the speed of hockey. The shutter lag will be too long, and you will miss nearly every shot.
Pick yourself up a used Canon 1DmkII/mkIIn, and start with an EF 85mm f/1.8 or 100mm f/2 lens. The 8.2MP file size will give you more than enough resolution for up to 13*19 prints. The 8.5fps will give you the frame rates needed to capture the perfect action shots, and the AF system in the 1-series will actually keep up with the action on the ice. Don't get caught up in the MP race. Pros were printing full page spreads with lowly 4.2MP 1D and D2h bodies long before the current high-MP cameras came out. Small local hockey rinks are very dark, and I doubt you will have access to strobes. Try ISO 800, and keep your shutter speeds at 1/500 to freeze action. This means you'll be shooting wide open with the two lenses mentioned most of the time. Meter off the ice, so your photos aren't all underexposed. Set WB and exposure manually, so your settings don't change under the mercury vapor lights. Buying everything used, you can pick up a decent condition 1DmkII for about $500-600, and one of the 85mm or 100mm Canon EF lenses for about $350. If you are going to be shooting team photos also, you can get away with something slower - as you can use a flash, and/or longer shutter speeds. I have a 28-105 USM II, and it's a terrific, horribly underrated lens. You can pick one up for about $150 used. Just make sure you get the one that says 'Macro' on the barrel, and not the one that has a picture of a flower- that one is crap. Try to shoot from the benches if you can, so you're not shooting through glass. You're welcome. Last edited by Adamo99; 12-13-2012 at 01:47 PM. |
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#6 | |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for everyone's input. I'll be searching tonight online for prices while i'm working....
Last edited by E46er75; 12-13-2012 at 06:11 PM. |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Er, the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II alone is over $2,000.
If you're throwing budget completely out the window, buy a 1Dx, and a 135L. Last edited by Adamo99; 12-13-2012 at 06:50 PM. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I will stick with my recommendation
60D with 18-135mm (can sell lens if you want for $300-$400) 50mm f1.8 135mm f2.0 $1000+$100+$900 = $2000 good for walking around, portraits, low light, indoor tele sell the 18-135 and its $1600-$1700
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) Last edited by GlockMan; 12-13-2012 at 07:31 PM. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I am still trying to stick within a budget. As with everyone, I'm trying to get the most bang for the buck.
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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The OP ideally wants to spend between $500-1000. The lens alone that you're suggesting is almost at the top end of his budget. Good luck taking any photos without something decent to mount it on.
OP, your best bet is to get some pro gear that is a generation or two behind (ie: what I recommended), then upgrade what you need to, as you are able to. |
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#13 | ||
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Registered User
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I understand you FF guys are in a different league and all, but a 60D is not a joke of a camera. Quote:
It is not like throwing $1000 into a vacation or old electronics or even a car. "L" lenses defy depreciation. item 251183288020 just sold for $964 USED on ebay. The lens is $989 new at B&H Photo. lol.
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) Last edited by GlockMan; 12-13-2012 at 09:55 PM. |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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If you think the AF system on a consumer body like the 60D is anything remotely comparable to an older 1-series pro body, you have obviously never shot extensively with one. There is much more to capturing sharp sports images than frame rate. For stationary images, or subjects moving slowly, sure- use a Rebel XT if you want. Any sport at a higher level, where action happens quickly, you need responsive and accurate AF tracking. It doesn't matter if you can shoot at 6.5fps, if your keeper rate is 20%. I'd rather have a 1DsII, with the 1-Series AF, and only 4fps frame rate over a consumer body with mediocre AF and a higher frame rate. While I agree that the 135L is definitely the premier lens of choice for indoor sports, it leaves the OP with no money left to buy a body. The best compromise is a decent fast prime, like the 100mm f/2, and a proper pro body. Bump up the contrast in post, and I'm willing to bet 99.99% of viewers couldn't tell the difference between the images anyway. The OP won't need the robust build or weather sealing of the L lens, as s/he will be shooting indoors, in a dry hockey arena- where there is no salt spray, sea water, fine desert sand, etc. I bought a 7D a while back, hoping to use it as a backup to the 1DmkIII I had at the time. It was practically useless compared to the 1DIII. The 7D is a phenomenal camera, with an excellent AF system, that offers tremendous customization- but AF performance (initial lock and tracking) were not up to the standard of the 1-series AF, which have dedicated separate Digic processors for AF and image processing. Borrow one for a day if you can- you'll see what I mean. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Check out these places for a used body and or lens
http://www.keh.com/ http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ http://www.adorama.com/
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#16 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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![]() Ranting about Panny plasmas, Canon cameras, Glocks, BlueNile, and HDMI cables on a BMW board since 2005. 2007 Chevy Suburban LT 4x4 with Nav/Bose/DVD/JL (works for me) 1968 Ford Mustang with Polk/ADS (my first car and runs strong) 2007 Lexus GS350 with every option (I loved it) 2000 BMW DINAN M5 (will be missed) 2001 BMW 330ci (will be missed) |
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#17 | |
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#18 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: 53°12'N/105°45'W
Posts: 48
My Ride: '12 Frontier Pro-4x
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shot a Hockey Game last night for a buddy I work with - 7D + 70-200 2.8L IS. worked awesome. I have never used a 1D series camera, so I cannot compare, but I had no issues following and tracking players - I only went through half my photos last night when I got home and they seemed to be sharp, only disadvantage is high ISO noise on the 7D.
I also learned that shooting hockey is a lot harder then I thought it was going to be, I was shooting from the players bench, so a lot of the shots are from behind, which sucks. the rink was not equipped with "camera holes" at the corners so I had to make due.
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#19 | |
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#20 |
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Registered User
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Id also look at Sigma HSM II 70-200. IS or OS in sigma is not really necessary with shutter speeds of 1/500+. The 2.8 is necessary for sure. Sigma goes for around $600 and thats hell of a deal for a sharp lens. This allows you to go into 60D or even 7D thats slightly used...
I use 7D and Sigma in indoor soccer, the results are awesome! |
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