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Old 12-10-2012, 06:08 PM   #541
eRock79
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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
No need to prime.

Cycle the key on and off 4 or 5 times.
Awesome. Thank you for the info & I only wish I had seen this post sooner. :/
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:23 AM   #542
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Thanks OP. Car hesitated and eventually died on me on my way to work. I could start it and it would run with a really rough idle, throwing out misc misfire and lean codes. It could barely keep idle. Once you put it into gear, it would die from the load. Fuel trim stayed at around +27 at any RPM. I spent a day looking for cracks near and around CCV, ICV, and the intake boots, checked the DISA to see if it was broken, changed the sparkplugs and fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. It was still beyond drivable with the way it was running with the same codes being thrown after resetting the codes.

Spraying starter fluid into the intake didn't do much to starting it since it would always run decent for a few seconds, then back to a rough idle with or without the starter fluid. So I bought myself a fuel pressure gauge, and finally saw the culprit. The fuel rail was only getting 25 psi. I ordered and replaced the fuel pump from BMA, and now it runs like a champ today.

Another fuel pump bites the dust. It was the original pump on a 2003 325i.

I hope it helps anyone suspecting the fuel pump as their issue, since I never thought a fuel pump could soft-fail in this way.

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Old 12-17-2012, 09:47 AM   #543
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'01 330i owner.
Car has exhibited the symptoms of the soft fuel pump failure, car ran out of gas still showing 1/4 tank. Put fuel in and it started right up.

Then sure enough my wife goes out to start it this morning and it cranks but no start.

Question, the O-ring for the Siemens / VDO fuel pump...says it needs to be ordered separately---did that---but it shows a "Sending unit O ring" in the description. Is that correct JFOJ?

Also, I ordered the Fuel pump relay and the Filter w pressure regulator.

Last thing, where is this F-pipe / hose you refer to in some other posts?

Thank you.
jfoj,
First off I want to thank you for starting this thread.

When our car starting exhibiting the signs of 'soft-failure', I paniced at the possibilities of what it could be.

Anyway, I did the job on Friday night. Filter and pump in just under an hour.

Just to share a bit of information---many here have talked about doing the job with a near empty tank. This is, of course, accurate if you are doing it as a preventive maintenance item. We didn't have that luxury.

Quickly, when the car stalled the first time it still showed "x" number of miles to empty and fired right up after putting just 2 gallons in it. My wife then drove to the gas station and filled 'er up.! Then the next morning the car wouldn't start.

Ordered the parts thru BMA,,,when they arrived went thru the procedure of replacing the filter, very little fuel spillage.

Then to the pump.
All was going along fine with removing the seat, the covering under the seat, the plug on top of the pump, the ring holding the pump down. Then I pulled on the pump and the car was so full that fuel leaked into the area around the top of the pump.

We simply packed some paper towels in around that area and the quickly installed the new pump against the new rubber seal and the "leak" was stopped very quickly.

My point is that if anyone is doing this because of a failure to the pump as opposed to preventive maintenance and if you have a substantial amount of fuel in the car, don't panic, just move a little quicker. Your hands will smell like gas for a bit,,,but once you seat the pump against the rubber gasket you're basically done.

Thanks to all for the information and the diy video as well as the pictoral diy.

Just a couple of notes that may help someone else.

1. When replacing the fuel filter, I did opt to cut the old gas lines.
2. I purchased fuel injection line at the local Auto Zone. It is $8 for 18".
3. Don't buy their "regular gas line" you can feel just how flimsy it is.
(It may work / hold up but I didn't want to chance it.) Their regular gas line says it's good to 175 psi. The fuel injection gas line is rated substantially higher.
4. Buy enough clamps. You will have six under the car and one will be needed for the hose that attaches at the top of the fuel pump. Soooo, you will need 7 total. FYI.
5. fjoj, did indicate that the rubber seal that goes between the pump and the tank can be re-used. That is good information. The rubber seal was (I'm doing this from memory) like $22. Imo, it is not needed. But, I wasn't sure so I purchased it.
6. I also purchased the fuel pump relay. It was not needed either. But I guess it can't hurt to have it.
7. I didn't use ramps, I jacked the car up and placed jack stands under the driver's side of the car. (Simply worked under a tilted car).
8. It has been said, cycle the key. We did this 6 or 7 times. You can literally hear the air being purged out of the lines. Car sputtered only a bit at start up, then ran beautifully.

Sorry for being so long winded. It's all in this thread, I just thought I'd share our experience with a "FULL tank."
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:48 PM   #544
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Can't get fuel pump to seat properly

Nice posts below. Followed these and some video instructions and it seemed like a piece of cake. Of course I know better by now. Thanks Murphy

Car is BMW 2004 325i. Unfortunately my tank had just been filled so there was gas where I didn't want it. Extracted the old fuel pump, noted the direction and tabs on the new pump and carefully inserted the new pump. It looked like it was in the right place but wouldn't seat down the last 1/8" - 1/4". It felt like there was something holding it up from the bottom, like it was too long. I took it out again and compared to the old one and they looked identical. After endless efforts to discover the offending piece of material I gave up.

Anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:57 PM   #545
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Where was the gasket? Was the gasket groove fit around the opening of the gas tank before you inserted the fuel pump? There is only ONE way to properly install the gasket, there are about FIVE ways to install it incorrectly.

Common failure is when you remove the original pump, the gasket comes out with the pump and many people think this is the way the new pump goes in but it is not the proper way.

You will see a small groove on the outer edge of the fuel pump gasket, again, this groove needs to be fit into the edge of the tank opening.

If you do not get the gasket in correctly you will get Evap codes and have fuel leaking and fuel smell.
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 12-18-2012, 09:20 PM   #546
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Then I pulled on the pump and the car was so full that fuel leaked into the area around the top of the pump.
I think when you were replacing the filter, and disconnect the fuel line, your fuel will come out. Use that as a way to drain your fuel tank you can avoid spills from when pulling out fuel pump.

Last edited by TonyJ; 12-18-2012 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:21 PM   #547
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And the winner is ...

You hit it right on the head jfoj! Took both pumps into the shop where I could see properly, took off the original gasket, carefully seated it around the groove in the tank and then carefully installed the pump again. The last little satisfying thunk and I knew it was seated properly.

Car started on first crank
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:23 PM   #548
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:39 PM   #549
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If you do not get the gasket in correctly you will get Evap codes and have fuel leaking and fuel smell.
Gotta admit I made the classic mistake on this one in order to comment.
Installed the gasket wrong and then drove from NY to LA and back again. Never had an odor or code the whole way!
Read a description one day and realized I had made a mistake. Bought a new gasket and installed it correctly, and all OK forever and ever.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:53 AM   #550
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Gotta admit I made the classic mistake on this one in order to comment.
Installed the gasket wrong and then drove from NY to LA and back again. Never had an odor or code the whole way!
Read a description one day and realized I had made a mistake. Bought a new gasket and installed it correctly, and all OK forever and ever.
Just curious...with no code / no odor,,,What description made you believe you had made a mistake? Or asked a different way, What was the issue with the original install of the gasket?

Last edited by 01330i; 12-19-2012 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:58 AM   #551
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I think when you were replacing the filter, and disconnect the fuel line, your fuel will come out. Use that as a way to drain your fuel tank you can avoid spills from when pulling out fuel pump.
Ok. I'm not well versed enough to know this, so I ask respectfully.
There was only a small bit of fuel that leaked when I removed the filter.
With the fuse out, how would more fuel continue to drain?
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:51 AM   #552
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Assume he is thinking it may siphon out?

I have never tried this, you would likely also need to remove the gas cap as well because the sealed system may hold a bit of a vacuum to kill or stop the siphon?
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:26 PM   #553
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Originally Posted by 01330i View Post
Just curious...with no code / no odor,,,What description made you believe you had made a mistake? Or asked a different way, What was the issue with the original install of the gasket?
I read a post on this board where someone described the correct way to install the gasket, and described the incorrect way to install it. I realized I had done it wrong when I thought back on it. And I had to struggle with the retaining ring to get it on and clamped down. When done correctly it goes on easy and tightens without all the effort I had to use the first time.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:45 PM   #554
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I read a post on this board where someone described the correct way to install the gasket, and described the incorrect way to install it. I realized I had done it wrong when I thought back on it. And I had to struggle with the retaining ring to get it on and clamped down. When done correctly it goes on easy and tightens without all the effort I had to use the first time.
Ahhh I see.

You know what I really like about this (and other) threads is the fact that when you realize what kind of ease that some of the "scary" stuff can be done,,,the limited number of tools really required,,,it makes owning these cars that much more enjoyable.

Off topic, I did the final stage resistor in the same car as the filter / pump.
I was quoted $400 plus the cost of the part which they wanted $150 for.
Part cost me in the neighborhood of $50 and about an hour and half of my time, very limited tools necessary.

My next project (still off topic) would anyone be so kind as to direct me toward a driver's seat diy....the seat adjustment will periodically stop working.

I've searched but haven't had any luck yet.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:29 PM   #555
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I did the final stage resistor in the same car as the filter / pump.
I was quoted $400 plus the cost of the part which they wanted $150 for.
Part cost me in the neighborhood of $50 and about an hour and half of my time, very limited tools necessary. And an experienced dealer can do the final stage in under 30 minutes, so compound the high hourly rate with outright dishonest quotes!

My next project (still off topic) would anyone be so kind as to direct me toward a driver's seat diy....the seat adjustment will periodically stop working.
Sounds like what you're looking to do is troubleshoot the seat. No DIY for something like that unless it was a chronic problem.
I'd go after a defective switch or connector first.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:32 PM   #556
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There was only a small bit of fuel that leaked when I removed the filter.
Well, when I changed my fuel filter, the fuel keeps coming out from the line. I thought it may stop in a while, but it didn't... I accumulated about 5 litres and it still kept dripping with no slowing. At the end of the day, I did not want to wait any loner and just connect the new filter to stop the drain

My tank was pretty full though, so I guess this way you can drain out quite a lot of fuel to make pump change easier.

And I jacked up the rear higher maybe that caused more fuel flow to the fuel filter?

Last edited by TonyJ; 12-19-2012 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:40 PM   #557
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It doesn't matter how high or low you jack up your car. The fuel tank is higher than the undercarriage where the fuel filter line is. If the line isn't pinched, you can drain your fuel tank! I used vice grip pliers to hold the fuel flow.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:42 PM   #558
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It doesn't matter how high or low you jack up your car. The fuel tank is higher than the undercarriage where the fuel filter line is. If the line isn't pinched, you can drain your fuel tank! I used vice grip pliers to hold the fuel flow.
Exactly. That's why I don't understand why 01330i said only a little leak?

Last edited by TonyJ; 12-19-2012 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:48 PM   #559
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He might have meant just the fuel filter. you'll probably dump about 250mL of fuel out of that. I fill up a medium sized yoghurt container!
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:52 PM   #560
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I used vice grip pliers to hold the fuel flow.
I delibrately avoided vice grip on the rubber line. I don't want to shorten its life.
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