No "check engine light" with headers!!!

I just did my headers and LC-1 last night...

everything is working fine so far; only have 20 miles on it.

Dont have any wiring pics; its not "clean" yet. I ran everything into the bin in the passenger side, then pushed some wires through the bottom into a hole right under the glove box. man that was a convenient place to put it too.

Ran the wires up to the center console and just have the wires poking out so i can plug in the gauge if i want it.

**Im running the resisters instead of using the o2's. Just used regular epoxy adhesive to stick them to the metal of the firewall

OH AND MY GOODNESS those stock manifolds are restrictive! The car isnt fast but it definitely feels night and day different

congrats on the headers!

200 Mile update...

NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

I have been going since I first posted about my installed LC-1 without a check engine light. Kudos to the pioneer of this fix!

Originally Posted by jonwrong

I have be going since I first posted about my installed LC-1 without a check engine light. Kudos to the pioneer of this fix!

how many miles total you think since you installed it?

I just got my LC-1 and headers this week. Hopefully I'll be as successful as everyone else.

Also, did you guys ceramic coat, wrap, or both for the headers?

I have put more than 10k miles on the car with no light. I have SS headers with no wrap or other coating. No cats. I also kept the stock rear O2 sensors for the heater circuit.

No wrap no coat, used felpro gaskets for their heat shields on them..

250 miles so far no issues.

I used the resistor's in place of the rear o2's with no problems. the only issue would be overheating the resistors, but these are large wire wound ones, made to handle the load. hopefully they keep up

Originally Posted by jonwrong

I have been going since I first posted about my installed LC-1 without a check engine light. Kudos to the pioneer of this fix!

Thanks, glad to see that it's working out well. Have you removed your sec. air pump and taken care of that monitor yet? There is another thread about it, and I think there is a guy selling the kit plug-and-play too.

Originally Posted by F1004fun

Thanks, glad to see that it's working out well. Have you removed your sec. air pump and taken care of that monitor yet? There is another thread about it, and I think there is a guy selling the kit plug-and-play too.

got a link?

Guys, is it safe to run headers without coating or wrap? You still have the heat shields for the headers at least?

found it, found the original author, and found the one who solved it!!



Good stuff thanks for all u do and sharing it with us F1004fun

**EDIT FOR HEADERS
I use felpro gaskets that have heat shields resembling those of the stock gaskets.

I dont have any heat issues with them.. Just make sure your wiring is ran and tucked properly.

Did need my exhaust guy to weld a little bracket in between the two exhaust pipes RIGHT after the headers.

The bimmerbrake headers i got had two o2 bungs that were rubbing on one another making an EXTREMELY annoying hum/buz sound around 1900rpm.

With the small brace in between the pipes its 100% noise free. Im almost suprised at how little it raised the exhaust note and how MUCH it raised the uuumph the car has

Do those variables work on an M3 too?

Originally Posted by mattfarrington

Do those variables work on an M3 too?

I would think that they would work on any car really. The voltage output curve is identical to a cat being installed. I have used this setup on a 135i and Mini S as well.

Originally Posted by F1004fun

I would think that they would work on any car really. The voltage output curve is identical to a cat being installed. I have used this setup on a 135i and Mini S as well.

Oh okay!
I didn't know if the computers worked differently from car to car.
Now, I am pumped.

Thanks so much OP!!!

Anybody can help with a correct interpretation for these 2 INPA screens I have while the car is idling ?

I am trying to figure out if the O2 sensors are working properly. Are 47%, 48% and 99% correct/ideal values? If not, what are they?

I have headers installed and the LC-1 simulator as explained in this post.

Any help, much appreciated.

Are you getting a CEL?

Wild program. Most of the bars are in the middle, that's a good thing. The hinter or maybe heater circuits are on, that's OK. I would look at cyl. 3, rough running values, they are kinda high.

Originally Posted by F1004fun

Wild program. Most of the bars are in the middle, that's a good thing. The hinter or maybe heater circuits are on, that's OK. I would look at cyl. 3, rough running values, they are kinda high.

Hey, great thread!
I'm ridiculously confused though, i want to do headers and put on an LC1 to lose the CEL, so what is the simplest way to purely do this. I feel like an arse for making you explain this again, but do you mind telling me exactly how to do this. Pictures would help greatly.
A few ?s

What are the resistors for and where exactly do they plug in?
How exactly do you wire in the LC1, do you have to splice or is it plug in?
What do you do with your second unplugged post O2 sensor?
Do you have any pictures? I cannot seem to get the diagrams through my thick skull.
I've went through the thread twice and still don't get it.
Any help at all would be great!
Thank you

Nope, I am not getting a cell ... however I get these errors (please see attach.).

One more thing ... anybody who has INPA and is able to take screen shots of their values and post them? Because after an immediate google search I ended up on wikipedia and what I read is somewhat scary (below are excerpts from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor):
....................
Operation of the probe
Zirconia sensor

The zirconium dioxide, or zirconia, lambda sensor is based on a solid-state electrochemical fuel cell called the Nernst cell. Its two electrodes provide an output voltage corresponding to the quantity of oxygen in the exhaust relative to that in the atmosphere. An output voltage of 0.2 V (200 mV) DC represents a "lean mixture" of fuel and oxygen, where the amount of oxygen entering the cylinder is sufficient to fully oxidize the carbon monoxide (CO), produced in burning the air and fuel, into carbon dioxide (CO2). An output voltage of 0.8 V (800 mV) DC represents a "rich mixture", one which is high in unburned fuel and low in remaining oxygen. The ideal setpoint is approximately 0.45 V (450 mV) DC. This is where the quantities of air and fuel are in the optimum ratio, which is ~0.5% lean of the stoichiometric point, such that the exhaust output contains minimal carbon monoxide.
.................

In my case, voltage reads values like 1.5 (way off) .... BRRRR. At his point I believe both values values should be 99%, instead of 47% and 48% for "wert Heizung Lambdasonden vor Kat1/Kat2" entries in the screens from my previous post (wert Heizung Lambdasonden vor Kat1 means Value heating oxygen sensors before Kat1).

I am going to toy around with INPA and increase the values to 90% for both banks and see if the voltage goes down.
(And yes, I changed fuel pump and pressure regulator, spark plugs and MAF is cleaned)