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Old 12-25-2012, 08:47 AM   #781
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I would have, had I known about this site and this thread in particular at that time. This should also make you cringe, I used green pre mixed antifreeze and just mixed it with what BMW antifreeze was left in there.
He won't cringe...I think it'd be a wry grin.

You should read more and plan on flushing out your system...rinsing a couple of times with distilled...drain each time from engine block plug until what you drain is clean. I drive around just a little bit...let it cool down before draining...and replace crush washer at the final fill.

There are coolants that don't intermix well and form a gunk. I don't believe this is an internet myth.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:10 AM   #782
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He won't cringe...I think it'd be a wry grin.

You should read more and plan on flushing out your system...rinsing a couple of times with distilled...drain each time from engine block plug until what you drain is clean. I drive around just a little bit...let it cool down before draining...and replace crush washer at the final fill.

There are coolants that don't intermix well and form a gunk. I don't believe this is an internet myth.
Thanks Dmax, I bought 6 gallons of distilled in anticipation of needing 2 if not 3 flushes.

Did you bottle up every bit of water that came out from flushes after the initial drain?
Is there a point when what you are draining out has been diluted enough that it's no longer and environmental hazard?
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:15 PM   #783
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Decided that because my upper and lower radiator hoses and expansion tank has not been changed for 60k miles to change it plus the thermostat.
Here is the problem......the lower radiator hose seems to be baked onto the radiator and will not come off when the spring clamp is released. Tried everything--but afraid that I will damage the radiator if I force it anymore.
Is this common---any suggestions, please........
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:20 PM   #784
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Decided that because my upper and lower radiator hoses and expansion tank has not been changed for 60k miles to change it plus the thermostat.
Here is the problem......the lower radiator hose seems to be baked onto the radiator and will not come off when the spring clamp is released. Tried everything--but afraid that I will damage the radiator if I force it anymore.
Is this common---any suggestions, please........
That hose can be tough to remove. Best thing to do is use muscle. screwdriver probably won't help much due to the position of the hose.. or you can slowly dremel it off
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:42 PM   #785
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That hose can be tough to remove. Best thing to do is use muscle. screwdriver probably won't help much due to the position of the hose.. or you can slowly dremel it off
This always work for me. All u do is wiggle and wiggle. Do this about 5 mins and the hose will come off.

If that doesn't work then Some people would wedge a flat head screw driver but that might damage the fragile plastic.

Wiggling always work for me. It is slow but very safe

I hope this helps. Good luck

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Last edited by flashmeow; 12-27-2012 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:38 PM   #786
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Awesome post!!!! Every E46 driver should know this !!
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:54 PM   #787
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Awesome post!!!! Every E46 driver should know this !!
Thank you, sir. This should be a pop up for every new member! Jake's working on this!
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:06 PM   #788
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Nope--did not come off in 5 minutes.. But the Lower Hose did come off in 1 hour (I exaggerate--about 20 minutes--even though it was 1 hour of aggravation )
Guys--thanks.........Now, new upper & lower hose, thermostat, expansion tank....that should hold me for another 60k. (I have a Steward water pump and decided not to change it until 150k--maybe)
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:50 AM   #789
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Thank you for the good information here. I plan to do this my 325ci. I have a question regarding the temperature gauge and wondering if anyone can validate this. I was told by a knowledgeable BMW owner that the coolant temperature gauge is either not accurate or nonworking on all e46s? I have two E46s, the 02 325i (automatic) gauge responds quicker than my 04 325ci (5-speed). The 325i's heater warms really quick, the 325ci takes time and the needle is barely in the center. Any thoughts much appreciated.
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:19 AM   #790
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Oh man o man did I fk it up today

I over torqued a bolt putting on the thermostat. It's still somewhat tight but it's fkn stripped...

So the thermostat is held in with 4 bolts, 3 10mm's and a 13mm. The 10mm bolt underneath the 13mm bolt (one on the right) is stripped.


Has this happened to anyone?

Is it as easy as rethreading it to a different size? Luckily it was the bolt on the right, not the ones on the left that are directly holding the thermostat in place.


Any assistance and help would be great
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:28 AM   #791
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:57 AM   #792
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Thank you for the good information here. I plan to do this my 325ci. I have a question regarding the temperature gauge and wondering if anyone can validate this. I was told by a knowledgeable BMW owner that the coolant temperature gauge is either not accurate or nonworking on all e46s? I have two E46s, the 02 325i (automatic) gauge responds quicker than my 04 325ci (5-speed). The 325i's heater warms really quick, the 325ci takes time and the needle is barely in the center. Any thoughts much appreciated.
Thanks. replace the entire cooling system. that thermostat is shot and so is everything else.

GL!
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:35 AM   #793
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I saw a few people installing silicone hoses. I know silicone are great at vacuum and intake hose but is it reliable for coolant?

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Old 01-01-2013, 11:46 AM   #794
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Also...for anyone questioning mango madness about replacing all the coolant hoses....check out the recommendation from Gates. Gates is one of the leading manufacturer of coolant hoses.

Epdm hoses are the latest in coolant hoses technology. BMW currebtly uses Epdm.
With the reduction in engine compartment size, coolant hoses are prone to failure due to the prevalence of factors such as heat, abrasion and oil. In addition, new conditions arise, such as electrochemicaldegradation.

Gates has determined that electrochemical degradation, or ECD, results when the hose, liquidcoolant (ethylene glycol antifreeze and water), and the engine/radiator fittings form a galvaniccell or "battery." This reaction causes microcracksin thehose tube allowing coolant to penetrateinto the reinforcement.

Accelerated by high-heatand flexing, thehosecan develop a pinholeleak or rupture under normal pressure. This possibility of hidden reinforcement failureisoneof the best reasons for replacing coolant hoses every two to four years.

To address the damage caused by ECD, Gates has developed an electrochemically-resistant ECR coolant hoseusing a special EPDM (ethylene propylene rubber) formulation.


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Old 01-01-2013, 12:59 PM   #795
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Gates talks about "battery". My E46 battery is in the trunk and the engine is under the hood. So does this mean that reasoning is somewhat invalid.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:14 PM   #796
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Gates talks about "battery". My E46 battery is in the trunk and the engine is under the hood. So does this mean that reasoning is somewhat invalid.
Half reasonable question, but the answer has nothing to do with your trunk battery as the explanation has battery in quotes. This means they are not talking about your battery, but the "battery" that is created between different electrogalvanic materials.
However, you're in luck because our hoses do not connect to metal as we have plastic connectors on our radiators. So given plastic on the end of our hoses, and plastic on the rads, we do not have dissimilar materials mating to one another.
Bottom line: relax and cruise easy.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:50 AM   #797
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Cooling System Overhaul Advice Requested. (Mango, thanks very much for taking the time to provide the above parts list. I'm new to BMW's and this forum, though I have been studying both of them for 3 weeks. About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2002 325Ci, (JW52135) with 153K. The service records for the first 64k came from BMW since this was a Lease vehicle. The next owner had it for about 10K, then the guy I bought it from had owned it from 75k till I bought it from him. The guy I bought it from had it serviced by the same Indy BMW Garage, (with receipts) till I bought it. The car has been pretty well maintained with regular oil changes. The only issues are the typical BMW issues I've found on this forum and the car is in need of a Cooling System Overhaul to include a radiator, since there is a hairline crack around the neck. None of the receipts I have indicate the cooling system has ever being touched, except for 20k ago, the Indy BMW Garage replaced the Thermostat, a Radiator hose and the belts. I will be driving this car btw Tampa and Miami at least once a month. I want to minimize my chances of a breakdown, so I'm trying to look at what could possibly give me a problem. The one thing I have not seen addressed with regards to the cooling system are the Heater Hoses and Pipes, (RealOEM. com schematics) in the system. So my questions:
1. As you well know, there is a lot of plastic on these cars, so I have to believe these heater pipes are plastic as well and suffer from the same heat/pressure related failures as the rest of the system, or are they more robust? Every vehicle I've purchased in the past the first thing I do is flush the system and replace the cooling system hoses, to include the Heater Hoses etc. What would be your advice for this BMW?
2. And with regards to the above post about the Expansion Tank mounting plate, should that be a wait and see or should I just go ahead and replace it?
3. I have a Hydraulic Tensioner for the WP/ALT/PS. Should I replace the entire Tensioner assembly or would the Tensioner alone be enough? The A/C Tensioner is Mechanical and independent of the rest of the system and looks to be pretty accessable and functioning properly for the time being. I think I'll leave it alone for now unless you're of a different opinion.
4. Voltage Regulator. Someone posted, (might have been you) that while you're down in the bowls of the engine compartment you should go ahead and replace the VR since these cars are particularly voltage sensitive. Your opinion?
Thanks very much for taking the time to address my questions.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:29 AM   #798
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Originally Posted by ScandiHooligan View Post



Cooling System Overhaul Advice Requested. (Mango, thanks very much for taking the time to provide the above parts list. I'm new to BMW's and this forum, though I have been studying both of them for 3 weeks. About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2002 325Ci, (JW52135) with 153K. The service records for the first 64k came from BMW since this was a Lease vehicle. The next owner had it for about 10K, then the guy I bought it from had owned it from 75k till I bought it from him. The guy I bought it from had it serviced by the same Indy BMW Garage, (with receipts) till I bought it. The car has been pretty well maintained with regular oil changes. The only issues are the typical BMW issues I've found on this forum and the car is in need of a Cooling System Overhaul to include a radiator, since there is a hairline crack around the neck. None of the receipts I have indicate the cooling system has ever being touched, except for 20k ago, the Indy BMW Garage replaced the Thermostat, a Radiator hose and the belts. I will be driving this car btw Tampa and Miami at least once a month. I want to minimize my chances of a breakdown, so I'm trying to look at what could possibly give me a problem. The one thing I have not seen addressed with regards to the cooling system are the Heater Hoses and Pipes, (RealOEM. com schematics) in the system. So my questions:
1. As you well know, there is a lot of plastic on these cars, so I have to believe these heater pipes are plastic as well and suffer from the same heat/pressure related failures as the rest of the system, or are they more robust? Every vehicle I've purchased in the past the first thing I do is flush the system and replace the cooling system hoses, to include the Heater Hoses etc. What would be your advice for this BMW?
2. And with regards to the above post about the Expansion Tank mounting plate, should that be a wait and see or should I just go ahead and replace it?
3. I have a Hydraulic Tensioner for the WP/ALT/PS. Should I replace the entire Tensioner assembly or would the Tensioner alone be enough? The A/C Tensioner is Mechanical and independent of the rest of the system and looks to be pretty accessable and functioning properly for the time being. I think I'll leave it alone for now unless you're of a different opinion.
4. Voltage Regulator. Someone posted, (might have been you) that while you're down in the bowls of the engine compartment you should go ahead and replace the VR since these cars are particularly voltage sensitive. Your opinion?
Thanks very much for taking the time to address my questions.
1. I have not seen anyone ever report leaking heater hoses. Mango has been here longer so he can speak more on this, but I don't believe they are a concern. I think they are also pretty inconvenient to access.

2. If you have a manual transmission I think you can ignore the ET mounting bracket (plate). The automatic cars use this plate as a junction for the transmission cooler. I have an auto and I will be replacing mine with the ET as it is leaking slowly.

3. The hydraulic tensioner is quite expensive. Rather than buying the whole unit, you may just want to see if you can convert to the mechanical. I don't know if this is possible. If not, then the critical components are the hydraulic arm and the pulley bearing. Those two things need to be replaced probably.

4. If you want to take care of it go ahead. You can at least check it's condition by removing it and inspecting the alternator's brushes. If they are getting small, just replace it. I don't know too much about VR failure though. Mango can tell you weather or not it shows symptoms before failure, or if it just dies out of the blue like the fuel pump.

Since you asked for Mango, he can verify what I am saying or correct anything I have gotten wrong, but I think I've pretty much got the gist here.

Last edited by WDE46; 01-03-2013 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:05 PM   #799
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3. The hydraulic tensioner is quite expensive. Rather than buying the whole unit, you may just want to see if you can convert to the mechanical. I don't know if this is possible. If not, then the critical components are the hydraulic arm and the pulley bearing. Those two things need to be replaced probably.
I recommend replacing parts with the best possible and that means hydraulic for hydraulic.
Put a new one in two months ago for about $7-80 if I recall.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:20 PM   #800
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I recommend replacing parts with the best possible and that means hydraulic for hydraulic.
Put a new one in two months ago for about $7-80 if I recall.
Same function, no real difference here. If it's possible, then it's worth it, unless the hydraulic is the more reliable one.
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