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Old 12-29-2012, 05:38 PM   #1
trentcdrums
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Icv sticks after cleaned

This is the second time that my ICV is causing me a few problems, it threw me a code that said that my ICV is sticking, so I simply took it out, and cleaned it very thoroughly, I even went off of YouTube and followed every instruction. Every 200 miles it seems like, Whenever I go off of Cruise, my traction light, EML, and my check engine light, all pop on at the same time. Then I have to pull over turn the car off and started back up and have no problem.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:43 PM   #2
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what did you use to clean it??? i used seafoam and ran some air pressure through it to clean it out... so far no issues after 5 months.

You might need a new one. It is mechanical and it does wear out with time.

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Old 12-29-2012, 06:04 PM   #3
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I used carb cleaner. Is there a certain way to get a cleaner? And is there a way to know it does not work correctly? Except for my diagnosis?
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:46 PM   #4
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ICV needs lubrication after a clean. seafoam is an actual lubricant as well so it does both, clean and lube.

The carb cleaner might have just cleaned up the residue and lube within and dried it up... with time the dirt would most likely creat the problem you're experiencing now.

Try to take it out and use some wd40. spray it well on the inside.. let it sit a little and see if that works.

or just get seafoam and try that instead. The barel on the inside should flop freely.

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Old 12-29-2012, 07:48 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by pawelgawel View Post
ICV needs lubrication after a clean. seafoam is an actual lubricant as well so it does both, clean and lube.

The carb cleaner might have just cleaned up the residue and lube within and dried it up... with time the dirt would most likely creat the problem you're experiencing now.

Try to take it out and use some wd40. spray it well on the inside.. let it sit a little and see if that works.

or just get seafoam and try that instead. The barel on the inside should flop freely.

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Wow great advice! Gonna do that with WD 40!
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:57 PM   #6
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I cleaned mine years ago with parts cleaner...later learned that's probably too aggressive. But I haven't had any issues for maybe 3 years. It's beginning to show signs of early stages of sticking, so I'll have it on my list to do again.

I had heard later that it should be lubricated too, though most here don't seem to do that. I have heard, though, that wd40 sort of sucks for most applications, and I tend to believe it. If you're going to lube it, find something just for that, not something all purpose like wd40 (which probably wouldn't last that long).

But, that said, I haven't heard of a 'icv dirty' code before. Check your connections on that one round connector that gives some here issues. Clean up contacts on things with electric cleaner...and read up on speed sensors...which more often seem to cause the sort of symptoms you describe.

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Old 12-30-2012, 12:51 AM   #7
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I finished cleaning and lubricating the icv earlier tonight and took it on a spin before it sits tonight. So far so good, ordered a new camshaft position sensor [OEM] because I'm growing a bak 1 code and then I should be good thanks guys. I have had the icv issue happen random times on the road and its scary. Thankfully I have a peake tool to clear the codes easily though, but I hope it never sticks again.. Ugh.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:16 AM   #8
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Do you have an aftermarket intake or stock?
I have came to a conclusion that some low quality aftermarket intakes cause this code to come out.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:34 AM   #9
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Do you have an aftermarket intake or stock?
I have came to a conclusion that some low quality aftermarket intakes cause this code to come out.
I actually do.. It's a cheap intake..
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:53 PM   #10
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Drove about 40 miles today so far, nothing yet. Hoping its over.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:41 PM   #11
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Okay, it did it again in the middle of the highway. So I had to turn off my car, then turn it back on. And now I am okay for now. I also am running a camshaft position sensor code, do you think that could be a reason this is doing it as well? I ordered a new sensor last night, so hopefully it will be in quickly. If my ICV is really stuck, I don't think that my car would run perfectly when I turn the car off and on again.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:55 PM   #12
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Okay. So first replace that sensor and make sure its oem. Also put your stock intake back on with an oem filter and report back. You shouldnt have any more problems
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:01 PM   #13
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If you have the stock intake, I recommend installing it first to see if that fixes it. I have had the exact same symptoms you describe, and after a lot of research through these threads, it sounds like many different issues can cause these symptoms. Some people claimed success with their stock intake. Unfortunately, I no longer have my stock intake, but I'm beginning to suspect that the K&N setup I have is at least part of the problem.
I checked for vacuum leaks, inspected and cleaned the ICV, (the code I had) and it didn't help. The reputable indie out here hooked it up to his diagnostics computer and said it was most likely a faulty steering angle sensor (apparently what their computer said). Sounded like an odd solution to me, but that shop has a stellar reputation, so I went ahead and shelled out for the repair. Two weeks later, my car started acting up again. It still happens every couple weeks or so. I don't think it's anything that'll be detrimental to the car in the long run, so I'm not worried about it for now.

Which aftermarket intake does your car have? Is it a dry or oiled filter system?
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:44 PM   #14
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If you have the stock intake, I recommend installing it first to see if that fixes it. I have had the exact same symptoms you describe, and after a lot of research through these threads, it sounds like many different issues can cause these symptoms. Some people claimed success with their stock intake. Unfortunately, I no longer have my stock intake, but I'm beginning to suspect that the K&N setup I have is at least part of the problem.
I checked for vacuum leaks, inspected and cleaned the ICV, (the code I had) and it didn't help. The reputable indie out here hooked it up to his diagnostics computer and said it was most likely a faulty steering angle sensor (apparently what their computer said). Sounded like an odd solution to me, but that shop has a stellar reputation, so I went ahead and shelled out for the repair. Two weeks later, my car started acting up again. It still happens every couple weeks or so. I don't think it's anything that'll be detrimental to the car in the long run, so I'm not worried about it for now.

Which aftermarket intake does your car have? Is it a dry or oiled filter system?
It's an eBay one.. Chromeintake :/
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:45 PM   #15
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I've had if for so long and now it does this. I've replaced my intake boots and cleaned too.
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawelgawel View Post
ICV needs lubrication after a clean. seafoam is an actual lubricant as well so it does both, clean and lube.

The carb cleaner might have just cleaned up the residue and lube within and dried it up... with time the dirt would most likely creat the problem you're experiencing now.

Try to take it out and use some wd40. spray it well on the inside.. let it sit a little and see if that works.

or just get seafoam and try that instead. The barel on the inside should flop freely.

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This. Same experience. My car started stumbling after a few miles after cleaning the ICV with brake/carb cleaner. I then also lubricated it (used PB Blaster on mine) and never got the issue again.

Agreed, that mechanism functions better lubricated.
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:20 PM   #17
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This. Same experience. My car started stumbling after a few miles after cleaning the ICV with brake/carb cleaner. I then also lubricated it (used PB Blaster on mine) and never got the issue again.

Agreed, that mechanism functions better lubricated.
PB blaster. Where can I get some?
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:01 PM   #18
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Um...PB Blaster is a penetrating, rust dissolving solvent, and I don't think it's intended as a lubricant...though I do think the same company makes a lubricant...be careful what you get. I'd go to an auto parts shop and tell them what you want to lubricate. That said, I just cleaned mine really well...using 1.5 cans of cleaner, and it's been fine now for maybe 3 years. Sounds like it's beginning to want another cleaning, so I'll get to that one of these warmer days...and then use lubricant too.
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:20 PM   #19
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I have had this problem for a while and it quite annoying did all the regular steps and it is now intermittent. My system is supercharged though so it is more complicated, I believe it has an oil based k and n filter. Should I try a dry based one on the list of possible problems? Am also looking into getting a smoke test for any vacuum leaks I am not able to spot.

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Old 12-31-2012, 06:14 PM   #20
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I have had this problem for a while and it quite annoying did all the regular steps and it is now intermittent. My system is supercharged though so it is more complicated, I believe it has an oil based k and n filter. Should I try a dry based one on the list of possible problems? Am also looking into getting a smoke test for any vacuum leaks I am not able to spot.
The oiled filters, when overoiled, foul the maf. If you can use a dry filter, you'll eliminate that as a possible issue...just spray your maf clean with maf cleaner after shifting to paper.

Lower intake boot is most common air leak...but there are many vac lines too. See under cabin air filter housing behind mani for some of the hidden ones too.

You can 'smoke' test diy by spraying carb cleaner around...you'll hear the engine rev a bit when you find a leak sight...it'll suck the cleaner into the intake...might help you isolate possible location before tearing stuff apart.
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