![]() |
![]() |
|
|
||||||
|
General Off-Topic
Everything not about BMWs. Posts must be "primetime" safe and in good taste. You must be logged in to see sub-forums. Click here to browse all new posts. |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Rate Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#21 |
|
drunken science
|
Awesome, thanks for the replies everyone. Still no word on the 380
I'll keep looking.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#22 |
|
Registered User
|
Had a W123 diesel before. Those things will run forever. Very plush ride. Go for it.
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#23 |
|
Registered User
|
I have nothing but fond memories of my 190E.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#24 |
|
Registered User
|
They can last many miles, and smoke out everyone behind you on the highway too.
__________________
![]() Look at that subtle jet-black coloring. The tasteful thickness of it. Oh my God, it even has a 6mt. S54 Valve Adjustment Spreadsheet & Info: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/28231781/S54...ent%20info.zip |
|
|
|
|
|
#25 | |
|
Registered User
|
What's wrong with a pipe Mr. Skinny Jeans?
Quote:
![]() I know basically nothing about them. So this is a total noob question. Generally I assume that cars that blow smoke are broken in some way. But if that's the case almost every older Mercedes (gas and diesel) on the road is "broken". So, is the smoke normal? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#26 |
|
Registered User
|
the older diesels do tend to smell.....
Last edited by vorceb23; 12-30-2012 at 09:12 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#27 | |
|
Registered User
|
Want to sell that 94? What did you pick it up for?
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#28 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nashville TN/Central FL.
Posts: 1,084
My Ride: Touring, and others
|
I use a 93 W124 as a daily driver. It has 146K on the clock and still looks and smells new, drives like new as well. Routine maintenance is the key to keeping these cars on the road. Only oddball repairs were a new wiring harness, head gasket and a fan bearing bracket. Everything else is and was straightforward.
__________________
[/SIGPIC]I'm fluent in 3 languages:
English Sarcasm Profanity |
|
|
|
|
|
#29 |
|
Registered User
|
Found this beauty locally for $1500. Need some minor rear repairs.
Only 130Kilometres (not miles) Looks MINT! http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...AdIdZ443069289 |
|
|
|
|
|
#30 |
|
drunken science
|
Went to check the car out tonight and it's in good shape minus a few small things that I wanted to ask you guys about. The rear windshield heater is corroded, not sure if it still works or not. I'm not very worried about the cosmetics, moreso it if could damage the glass or the seal around the edge and let water in.
![]() The paint isn't bubbling here but I wanted to get a second opinion just be sure that there isn't rust under there. The rest of the paint looked pretty solid for a car that's 28 years old. I couldn't get my phone to focus very well ![]() Last but definitely not least, the driver's power seat isn't working. Is this common at all? What are the chances it's just a fuse?
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#31 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
Rust would bubble, that looks like thin clear if anything. As for the seat it could be a fuse, motor, switch or something with the wiring. Being that the car is that old I'm sure it would be relatively easy to diagnose. It's a 28 year old car, there a one year old cars for sale with more issues than that, if the price is right go for it. Last edited by 04yfz; 01-02-2013 at 07:21 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#32 |
|
drunken science
|
Good to hear, thanks. I'm going to take it to my local shop and have it looked over and hopefully bring it home tomorrow.
__________________
Last edited by cowmoo32; 01-02-2013 at 08:04 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#33 |
|
Modded ///Member
|
That back glass is crazy expensive. It's laminated with a tiny defroster grid sandwiched into the middle of two sheets of thin glass. The last one I sold (10 years ago) was over a grand just for the glass. The earlier version of that car had a solid tempered back glass, so you might want to look around for one of those if it really bothers you. The rubber weatherstrip for the glass is probably $200 now, and labor to install will run about the same.
How bad is it?
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#34 |
|
drunken science
|
It's like the picture on both sides of the glass. Like I said, I'm not overly concerned with the aesthetics as long as it first pose a problem.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#35 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
1. The rear window heater is not corroding, the two layers of glass that the window heater grid is sandwiched between are separating due to the glue that is failing to do it's intended job over time. This is common for W126's and W124 Coupes. It only spreads to the spot where the glass goes from being curved to being flat. The flat part will remain clear. So apart from the cosmetic downside the glass is fine. Water has nothing to do with this issue. 2. Even if that is rust, (the quality of the picture doesn't allow me to tell for sure) that spot would be easy to fix and has nothing to do with the integrity of the car. You should look for rust in critical spots like the sideskirts, access holes for the jack, spring perches, and metal fuel lines. Faulty fuel lines will also cause a gas smell in the cabin when the engine is cold, so be sure to look out for that. 3. Non-Working Power seats are a common issue on these cars. Unfortunately the chance of only having to replace a fuse to get them working again are really slim, especially since only one seat is out of order (both front seats share the same fuse). It's more likely that you have to replace one of the following: - Comfort Module ECU under the rear drivers side seat (not 100% sure that it's in the same location on the w126) - Seat wiring harness - Actual seat adjustment motor If you do try to replace the fuse I would suggest replacing all of them right away. The electronics for comfort features are a weak spot on these cars, fortunately they never have any impact on the running condition of the car. These cars are unlikely to let you down in terms of not being driveable at all. As for general reliability: The diesel engines are literally bulletproof. They will run on the crappiest quality fuel with zero maintainance in the roughest conditions. The Inline 6 Gas Engines are amazingly reliable aswell... but they need to be maintained to last. Regular fluid and spark plug and filter changes are a must. The engine wiring harness and the headgasket are pretty much the only things to go wrong... both are fixable and they don't happen out of the blue. Unsteady RPM's at idle which get worse over time are a good telltale sign of the wiring harness goin to crap for example. With any 80's to 90's Mercedes I would stay away from the 5 speed automatics if you can. These tend to have problems with engaging 5th gear over time. The electronics in these gearboxes tend to go haywire at some point. 4 speed automatics will last forever as long as you do a transmission oil change every 30,000 miles. If a working A/C is something you want in a car you might have a problem. The AC coolant in these cars is very corrosive and eats up the AC lines and connectors. Usually the AC needs to be rebuilt and refilled. Here in Germany newer Mercedes are pretty much considered crap by anyone who truly knows about cars. The W124 is considered the last true Mercedes and I can completely understand why. I love how solid mine feels. Everything about it just screams German quality and craftsmanship. If for some reason buying that w126 doesn't work out I would suggest getting a late model W124. These cars are young enough to be a trouble free daily, yet they still have that old school Benz feel. Modern cars just don't compare. Here's my mint 95 E320 Wagon with a couple of subtle mods: ![]() ![]() ![]() let me know if you need anything else...
__________________
![]() -chris My 1 Series http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=688813 My E30 http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=853769 My old E46 http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=500790 My old E30 http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=509312 My first "OG" E46 http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...760&highlight= Last edited by 330performance; 01-02-2013 at 11:19 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#36 |
|
Registered User
|
^ everything he said
|
|
|
|
|
|
#37 |
|
drunken science
|
I take it the same can be said for the V8s as the inline 6s?
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#38 |
|
Registered User
|
1985 300E
Made it about 100,000 miles before the problems started kicking in. AC died. The windshield wiper motor stop functioning properly. Leather dashboard was cracking. Plastic parts in the engine were cracking.
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#39 |
|
drunken science
|
^fantastic
Looks like the seat is more than just a fuse, all the fuses are in great condition. I've only noticed one small issue when driving it: When the engine is cold it stutters when I give it gas, almost like it's not getting fuel at all. After a few minutes though it drives like normal. Any ideas?
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#40 |
|
Registered User
|
The problems associated with the car were what you'd expect of any vehicle. However, I don't think I could live without the AC piece. And from what I have read it sounds like a problem in other models of that era. It's not exactly an easy DIY. You'll pay an arm and a leg for labor to have someone else do it.
The engine "shuddering" can be caused by a few things. It could be as simple as needing to change the oil or changing it to a different weight/viscosity because of the cold temperatures outside. It could also be a result of defective or failing engine mounts. I would start with the oil.
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|