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Lighting Forum
Angel Eyes, DDEs, lighted rings, Clear Turn Signals, LEDs, Xenon, HID, or Bi-Xenon. If it lights up and you want to discuss it, post here!

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Old 01-03-2013, 05:21 PM   #21
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:46 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by bmwjatt View Post
I just popped new fuses and started the car, the problem went away. but still do you think this could be the end of it....

For now I am happy...
At this point I think you are fine but only time will tell, just relax and enjoy, if it ever come up again then deal with it again.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:24 PM   #23
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I drove around for a while, if the battery was bad the battery light would go on...
That is false. Not a little false, completely false.

The Battery Light tells you nothing about the battery, because it is really a Charging System Failure light. The light means that the charging system is on the fritz, it does not mean that the battery is dead.

The battery can be deader than a doornail, and the light might not be on, and the battery can be brand spanking new and the light will not go off.

That light tells you absolutely nothing about the battery EXCEPT that if the light is on, you can be sure that the battery will be dead in a few miles -- the number of miles depends on how many electrical loads you have running at the time.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:35 PM   #24
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That is false. Not a little false, completely false.

The Battery Light tells you nothing about the battery, because it is really a Charging System Failure light.
As previously pointed out in post #7
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:39 PM   #25
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The car is not on. this while the car is turned off. Key is not in the egnition and I am getting all this.

That's odd -- the only time my temperature gauge went to the red was when my cluster didn't have a connection to the DME
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:46 PM   #26
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Perhaps a solid clue!


Default mode?

Last edited by Stinger9; 01-03-2013 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:44 AM   #27
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Only other thing I can remember that has to do with the cluster was about two to three years ago I was driving on the freeway on a hot summer day, with the A/C, cruise, and lights on. My cluster gave out for like 10 seconds (went blank all the needles went dead nothing) then came back on and nothing else..
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:50 AM   #28
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Only other thing I can remember that has to do with the cluster was about two to three years ago I was driving on the freeway on a hot summer day, with the A/C, cruise, and lights on. My cluster gave out for like 10 seconds (went blank all the needles went dead nothing) then came back on and nothing else..
Not unheard of, and reported by a few others in the past. Mine did just that once or twice 95K miles ago, and has never done it again.
Car died. Had to shut the ignition off and restart. Had to reset radio and OBC.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:19 PM   #29
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so had the same issue as you yesterday (5th), weird a few of use are getting issues like this at the same time. Anyway, my door lock is bust, so couldnt get in the car. Disconnected the battery overnight and then connected it back up and hey presto, back to normal....but for how long.

Now time to get that door lock fixed before it does it again.
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:49 PM   #30
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what is OP?
OP mean Original Poster. That would be you.

Sorry, didn't read this to the end. My bad....

Last edited by HacksawMark; 01-06-2013 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Cause I didn't read to the end....
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:30 PM   #31
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So yeah i know its been a week and half since anybody posted on this thread, but the same thing has happened to my e46. Same exact brake lights on when the car is off, dashboard slightly xmas style. got pictures of both
I did what homeboy did in this thread http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...ard+lights+off
replaced the fuses and i just beeped at me 3 or 4 times when i reconnected the battery, with no key in the ignition. so then i found this thread http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=963747
and kinda no help, he got lucky.

Im taking it to a shop tomorrow morning first thing and hookerin it to a BMW diagnostics machine, crossing my fingers for a dead battery and not a bad cluster.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:00 PM   #32
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Have you measured your battery voltage with the hidden OBC functions?

Need to set up for that and see what happens when you try to start the car.

Last edited by Stinger9; 05-08-2014 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:16 AM   #33
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Have you measured your battery voltage with the hidden OBC functions?

Need to set up for that and see what happens when you try to start the car.
Nope didn't do this...so I did, and not the battery, 125 across the board. and took it to my mechanic, hooked it up to a bimmer comp and its the modulator. It wasn't communicating with the diagnostic machine, so there's a bad connection in it somewhere probably need a new one....162k miles woo!
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:55 AM   #34
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Nope didn't do this...so I did, and not the battery, 125 across the board. and took it to my mechanic, hooked it up to a bimmer comp and its the modulator. It wasn't communicating with the diagnostic machine, so there's a bad connection in it somewhere probably need a new one....162k miles woo!
Okay, so you mean voltage regulator, I guess, because your voltage is 12.5 while the car is running? Or it's not running at all? I'm confused...but old...so that happens more and more these days!

Get a remanned alt, new pulleys and belts while you're at it...odds are you don't have a weird connection problem in wiring, if that's what you mean.

Also, you'll save tons of money, you know, if you do this stuff yourself. Alt is very simple if you didn't know.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:51 AM   #35
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car not running. turned key to position 1. i ran test 12 on the OBC functions and got 12.5 volts, and then went to my mech plugged it in, and sorry i wasn't clear i meant the ABS modulator. I don't plan on tackling that myself, but later when i have the time/ a day off, I'm going to get a new voltage regulator for my bosch altinator, and clean the ICV since its kinda in the the same area. then sit at a stop light pop the hood and try to balance a penny while the people behind me get pissed at my smooth idle.
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:40 AM   #36
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car not running. turned key to position 1. i ran test 12 on the OBC functions and got 12.5 volts, and then went to my mech plugged it in, and sorry i wasn't clear i meant the ABS modulator. I don't plan on tackling that myself, but later when i have the time/ a day off, I'm going to get a new voltage regulator for my bosch altinator, and clean the ICV since its kinda in the the same area. then sit at a stop light pop the hood and try to balance a penny while the people behind me get pissed at my smooth idle.
We would have really wanted you to start the car with the voltage function turned on to read the charging voltage.
Just so you'll know, you're not close to doing the ICV when the alternator is off. Still a bit more semi-difficult stuff to remove to get there. But I'd still recommend you do go there and do it. That will open up doing the throttle body and DISA too.


PS---battery voltage test is not function #12. Check your list again.

We welcome people just get started!
But that your car started right up in the am is not the definitive battery and alternator test. Were it that simple.

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Old 01-19-2013, 01:48 PM   #37
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Yeah I've read the 'just acquired your non-m e46 now what?' Thread about 20 times and I plan to read it a million more and all the DIY things 20 times too. I don't wanna fudge my car up. At the same time I've happened to run across a unique problem that a few people had easy fixes on this site but they didn't work for me. So I'm just documenting what I know so far and the only thing not responding was the ABS modulator. And yes I am a newbie to all this bmw stuff. I normally work on recipes and poach your grandmothers eggs, my battery is fine and so is the alt or else it wouldn't have started right up the first time I noticed my brake lights were on and I walked to my car at 9 in the morn. Ill let you guys know if its all symptoms of a bad abs mod or if i end up spending too much money on a goose chase and the problem persists then i get to the possible alt, voltage reg, pulleys.

I like to work on the mechanical parts of the car (so i should stick to oil changes) not so much the electronics and pretty things that an oaf like myself will easily fudge up.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:29 PM   #38
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had my indy mech go through the interior and check all wiring and grounding, he fiddled with everything but to no hope. Bad ABS modulator, stealership quoted me 2370 for a brand new one coded to the car. He's getting a friend of his to rebuild it and code it to my car for around 1100 with a 2 year warranty. and then the 5 hours of labor that its gonna take him to put it in.

I could be getting fooled, but I've already given him half the money to get the modulator there and re-build. what do you guys think?
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:52 PM   #39
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what kind of guarantee are you getting from him in case this doesn't work?
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:38 PM   #40
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None whatso ever. He says it can't be anything else sooo ill let you guys know in a week if it works or if I'm just a dummy and I need to find another indy. I've spent probly over 3 grand at this guys place.....on another car had a 2000 vr6 jetta that always crapped out on me and now I'm drivin it again now that the bimmers indisposed for the week. I'm not sure if I have gulible printed on my forehead or not. It'd be nice to find an honest mech.

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