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Old 01-07-2013, 11:09 AM   #1
Teddy7
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5 speed swap in the works

I am in the process of picking up a 5 speed complete swap kit from a 2000 323 convertible to put in my 325i. The kit has 130k and includes everything except a shift nob. This is: driveshaft, trans, clutch, flywheel, pedal assembly, clutch assembly, every nut and bolt. My auto trans is fine at the moment, but my plans are to have this trans sitting and ready to go whenever the auto decides to finally give out. It's my ultimate preventative maintenance investment thus far . I'll be replacing the trans mount bushings, guibo, and CSB, clutch, flywheel (what else? keep reading >). I just want some advice and guidance in certain areas. I am well versed on the mechanical aspects of the swap (although I would like more info on how to replace the clutch/flywheel), but still a little unclear about the electrical components. I am coming from a GM auto trans (which I heard is easier?) something about being able to jump pins? Would I be able to theoretically turn on my car and drive around with no reprogramming? Also which specific parts are good to get for the shift linkage? I know this last question is heavily opinionated, but which clutch/flywheel combo do you recommend? At this point in time, I am looking at going with the F1 Gripforce Stage II clutch/flywheel combo. Please post your combos with your personal opinions regarding your replacements. I.e. Durability, Quality, Feel, Noise, Recommendations, etc.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:52 PM   #2
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Teddy, I recently completed an auto to manual swap (well haven't coded it yet). I'm not sure about jumping pins on the trans connector. The correct way to wire it is found in Neil's thread, I used it to do most of my swap. If you wire it this way, the car will start right up when the clutch is in. RealOEM is crucial too.

Neil's Thread (great guide)
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=659314

My Thread (more of progress than guide)
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=914098
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:40 PM   #3
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You can make a jumper between the pins of the automatic wiring harness (body side). That wiring procedure (improper), is outlined later in my thread as well as the proper wiring method.

cposk linked it.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:01 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info, both of you. Neil should the trans out of the 323 work just fine for that (improper) procedure on my 325? Will the car drive around just fine like that or just turn on?
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:52 PM   #5
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Why not do it now, that way you'll get some $$$ for your autobox.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:47 PM   #6
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Is it possible to do a 6 speed swap into your car? If I had an auto and wanted to swap for a manual, my first desire would be a 6 speed.
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:19 PM   #7
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Why not do it now, that way you'll get some $$$ for your autobox.
Ive thought about it.
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:20 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by wildirish317 View Post
Is it possible to do a 6 speed swap into your car? If I had an auto and wanted to swap for a manual, my first desire would be a 6 speed.
6 speed swap is significantly more in costs MOST if not all of the time.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:39 PM   #9
rapnel
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clutch

"I know this last question is heavily opinionated, but which clutch/flywheel combo do you recommend? At this point in time, I am looking at going with the F1 Gripforce Stage II clutch/flywheel combo. Please post your combos with your personal opinions regarding your replacements. I.e. Durability, Quality, Feel, Noise, Recommendations, etc."

I recently took the dip into the F1 Stage 2 kit on my e39. Getting off the DMF flywheel stock on my car was a good move. That being said I'm at 10k and have realized total failure of the clutch. Their customer server overall (based on initial acquisition and early back and forth experience) was sub-par at best. And I'm still waiting to hear back from them about what I can throw at this flywheel that is *not* gripforce. Background thread here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post25716643.

The clutch was definitely fun while it lasted and I know other folks have had better experience with it but ... I didn't and now I'm down large._nr_
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:22 PM   #10
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Yup, the transmission will cost you three times as much for the extra gear :S Much stronger gearbox, but who needs it unless they're blowing 300+ HP.

And the extra gear is just an extra overdrive, as far as I know 1-5 are identical, so it's not any quicker, just more economical.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:32 PM   #11
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Teddy - I'm not sure of the model year of your car but if the automatic you are removing is a ZF transmission your only recourse for wiring is to wire it from the body side (proper). The ZF uses two wiring connectors and uses a logic matrix to determine park and neutral, more difficult than just wiring it correctly.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trive2 View Post
Yup, the transmission will cost you three times as much for the extra gear :S Much stronger gearbox, but who needs it unless they're blowing 300+ HP.

And the extra gear is just an extra overdrive, as far as I know 1-5 are identical, so it's not any quicker, just more economical.
Gear Ratios - 323i
  1. 4.23
  2. 2.52
  3. 1.66
  4. 1.22
  5. 1.00

Gear Ratios - 330i 6-spd
  1. 4.35
  2. 2.5
  3. 1.66
  4. 1.23
  5. 1.00
  6. 0.85

Not a lot of difference, and basically an overdrive.

Other notable differences are that 5-speed has a TSB for the shift forks that should (must) be performed and I think Neil covered that in his diy.

A negative of owning the 6-speed (non-m) is a serious lack of available aftermarket flywheel/clutch combinations by comparison to the 5-speed. The clutch discs are both 240mm but the input shaft splines are much different.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:37 PM   #13
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Okay so if the trans is coming from a 5 speed 2000 323 convertible for my 2003 325i sedan with a gm step trans. Will this swap be easier or harder compared to a trans from another donor car or is this somewhat of the best option for the swap?
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:21 AM   #14
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Anybody?
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:41 PM   #15
driveway 2.0
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Im getting ready to swap mine as well.. My 328ci was destroyed in a collision so I am using it as a donor for my 01 325i. I plan on doing mine next month.
Glad I found this thread..

Are you swapping diff as well? I was going to and actually already rebuilt the 2.93 out of the 328ci, but the 325 has a 3.46, so I might just leave it. Kind of a bonus mod out of the deal
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumCranium View Post
Gear Ratios - 323i
  1. 4.23
  2. 2.52
  3. 1.66
  4. 1.22
  5. 1.00

Gear Ratios - 330i 6-spd
  1. 4.35
  2. 2.5
  3. 1.66
  4. 1.23
  5. 1.00
  6. 0.85

Not a lot of difference, and basically an overdrive.

Other notable differences are that 5-speed has a TSB for the shift forks that should (must) be performed and I think Neil covered that in his diy.

A negative of owning the 6-speed (non-m) is a serious lack of available aftermarket flywheel/clutch combinations by comparison to the 5-speed. The clutch discs are both 240mm but the input shaft splines are much different.
In theory any z4m clutch should work. Don't quote me on that though
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:05 PM   #17
Teddy7
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Quote:
Im getting ready to swap mine as well.. My 328ci was destroyed in a collision so I am using it as a donor for my 01 325i. I plan on doing mine next month.
Glad I found this thread..

Are you swapping diff as well? I was going to and actually already rebuilt the 2.93 out of the 328ci, but the 325 has a 3.46, so I might just leave it. Kind of a bonus mod out of the deal
^this^ I am definitely going to keep my 3.46 diff. This will set my 325i apart (slightly) from other manual counterparts.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:06 PM   #18
Teddy7
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Also still looking for input on the wiring aspects of the swap. The automatic being removed is a GM and I'm assuming the 2000 323 manual will be ZF. Can somebody tell me what I should expect to run into?
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:51 AM   #19
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Wiring directions are in Neil's thread... I haven't done reverse lights yet, but the directions are there also.

This is for the clutch switches. I had an issue with getting my wiring connector to click into the EWS. Once I fixed it, the car fired right up.

Clutch Switch:

Pin 1 - Goes to Ground (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 2 - Goes to the DME connection at A60004 pin 23
Pin 3 - Goes to 12v+ (At Brake Light Switch)

It's connected in parallel to the Clutch Switch Module which is mounted on the side of the clutch master cylinder.

Clutch Switch Module:

Pin 1 - Goes to Ground (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 2 - Goes to the DME connection at A60004 pin 23
Pin 3 - Goes to 12v+ (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 4 - Goes to EWS Pinout #8
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:57 AM   #20
Teddy7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cposk View Post
Wiring directions are in Neil's thread... I haven't done reverse lights yet, but the directions are there also.

This is for the clutch switches. I had an issue with getting my wiring connector to click into the EWS. Once I fixed it, the car fired right up.

Clutch Switch:

Pin 1 - Goes to Ground (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 2 - Goes to the DME connection at A60004 pin 23
Pin 3 - Goes to 12v+ (At Brake Light Switch)

It's connected in parallel to the Clutch Switch Module which is mounted on the side of the clutch master cylinder.

Clutch Switch Module:

Pin 1 - Goes to Ground (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 2 - Goes to the DME connection at A60004 pin 23
Pin 3 - Goes to 12v+ (At Brake Light Switch)
Pin 4 - Goes to EWS Pinout #8
^this is such great info, but I can tell this is where my swap is going to get annoying.
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