* E46 Cooling Guide (Information w/parts list/bleeding) *

Originally Posted by mikeetastic

@mango

bleed using page1 instructions (1 thru 5) then when i start the car the cap is remove to get more bubbles out if any? what do you think?

The cap and screw are completely removed during the bleed process. It is impossible without them removed.

Originally Posted by E46Mango

The cap and screw are completely removed during the bleed process. It is impossible without them removed.

yeah.. what i mean is bleed using process on page1 (engine off cap and screw remove).. when it's done and no bubbles install the bleeder screw but let the cap off and start the car?

Originally Posted by mikeetastic

yeah.. what i mean is bleed using process on page1 (engine off cap and screw remove).. when it's done and no bubbles install the bleeder screw but let the cap off and start the car?

Never start the car with any part of the cooling system off. Once you're done, you're done.

Mango, et.al.,

Those 'alternative methods of bleeding' I've posted here, come from here, and referenced a bmw TIS for an older car...I think E39.

I was surprised when I saw the label, I have to say, but it seems there's more than one way to skin a cat. Many old timers do bleed with car on...but they know what they're doing...and also, know to make sure the system is mostly full before starting!

Also, the bottle label says ET cap off...not bleeder screw open... My alt method, says cap and bleeder screw on...and you know with that, the engine isn't getting warm since it's only on for 20 secs.

I'll say this...I have a drain and wp install coming up...and I'm going to bleed the way in the TIS...the way Mango lists as from the TIS...the way that's in Bentley.

I've only recommended my alt method when someone has tried to rebleed after an initial fill...or just partial opening of the system. I've had a number here say it's worked for them, and I've done it successfully on other cars. It's a back stop method.

Originally Posted by dmax

Mango, et.al.,

Those 'alternative methods of bleeding' I've posted here, come from here, and referenced a bmw TIS for an older car...I think E39.

I was surprised when I saw the label, I have to say, but it seems there's more than one way to skin a cat. Many old timers do bleed with car on...but they know what they're doing...and also, know to make sure the system is mostly full before starting!

Also, the bottle label says ET cap off...not bleeder screw open... My alt method, says cap and bleeder screw on...and you know with that, the engine isn't getting warm since it's only on for 20 secs.

I'll say this...I have a drain and wp install coming up...and I'm going to bleed the way in the TIS...the way Mango lists as from the TIS...the way that's in Bentley.

I've only recommended my alt method when someone has tried to rebleed after an initial fill...or just partial opening of the system. I've had a number here say it's worked for them, and I've done it successfully on other cars. It's a back stop method.

Fair enough. I've done your method on my E36 M3 before and it wasn't pleasant. However it did work. I stripped the bleed screw because the expansion tank got so hot that the screw was super tight. It was making a squeaky noise as I turned it (should be silky smooth and easy to turn)

I think the best thing to do is cold-bleed, drive carefully til reaches operating temp, park car, cool down, and re-bleed.

The method you use depends a lot on the amount of air you got in the system, i.e. how much you drained it, and possibly specific details such as if the car was tilted since a lot the hardest part is probably getting air out of the heater core. Some tips:

1) make sure you know roughly how much coolant you need to be adding so you get a good estimate of how much air is in there, a complete drain and fill is 8.9 quarts if I remember correctly.

2) keep the bleeder open and make sure you keep adding coolant above the expansion tank fill line until the air is out otherwise the system has a harder time burping the pockets out.

3) the only thing that was able to get all the air out for me was to massage the upper radiator hose with two hands with the cap off, eventually it gulped liked a clogged toilet and I was all set.

If you have stubborn air pockets running the car and revving it can also help (and did with mine). I used the procedure from Alldata (the same BMW procedure on page 1) and it didn't work well. I had to run the car but the coolant wasn't circulating until I manually massaged the radiator hose. If you do run the car to bleed you shouldn't really be running it long enough to get hot, just enough to try to circulate some coolant.

Originally Posted by TT330i

The method you use depends a lot on the amount of air you got in the system, i.e. how much you drained it, and possibly specific details such as if the car was tilted since a lot the hardest part is probably getting air out of the heater core. Some tips:

1) make sure you know roughly how much coolant you need to be adding so you get a good estimate of how much air is in there, a complete drain and fill is 8.9 quarts if I remember correctly.

2) keep the bleeder open and make sure you keep adding coolant above the expansion tank fill line until the air is out otherwise the system has a harder time burping the pockets out.

3) the only thing that was able to get all the air out for me was to massage the upper radiator hose with two hands with the cap off, eventually it gulped liked a clogged toilet and I was all set.

If you have stubborn air pockets running the car and revving it can also help (and did with mine). I used the procedure from Alldata (the same BMW procedure on page 1) and it didn't work well. I had to run the car but the coolant wasn't circulating until I manually massaged the radiator hose. If you do run the car to bleed you shouldn't really be running it long enough to get hot, just enough to try to circulate some coolant.

I can live with that.

I was replacing my thermostat this morning(well trying to, it didnt go well). when i disconnected the sensor/harness on top of it; pulled the clip out than pulled the sensor off, well it was rotted and seperated from the thermostat housing/harness. the 2 wires in there are not connected, did it come apart/rip when i pulled the harness off or do the 2 connections(wires) just touch

also when i went to start my car it wouldnt start.
could it be that harness? is it possible to replace? what is it where can i get it?
**** really hit the fan for me this week, thanks for the help gents

Originally Posted by awszach

I was replacing my thermostat this morning(well trying to, it didnt go well). when i disconnected the sensor/harness on top of it; pulled the clip out than pulled the sensor off, well it was rotted and seperated from the thermostat housing/harness. the 2 wires in there are not connected, did it come apart/rip when i pulled the harness off or do the 2 connections(wires) just touch

also when i went to start my car it wouldnt start.
could it be that harness? is it possible to replace? what is it where can i get it?
**** really hit the fan for me this week, thanks for the help gents

Sounds like you need to rebuild it. Pics?

And when you say your car wouldn't start.. describe it.

Did you leave the lights on/door open or something?

It really sounded like a dead battery but i hooked some cables up to it and it still was turning over just clicking. i dont know how the battery went out in the hour i was working on my car, pretty sure nothing was on. so there is a connection in that harness, I need a new one?

Originally Posted by awszach

It really sounded like a dead battery but i hooked some cables up to it and it still was turning over just clicking. i dont know how the battery went out in the hour i was working on my car, pretty sure nothing was on. so there is a connection in that harness, I need a new one?

I'd have to see a picture of it. What was damaged, exactly? You might need to run some new wires

and i'm pretty sure that's just your battery

Mango, when I go to Cali in May can you touch my lower radiator hose so I know my cooling system will be in good working order?

Originally Posted by Solidjake

Mango, when I go to Cali in May can you touch my lower radiator hose so I know my cooling system will be in good working order?

It'll be my pleasure! And depending on how I touch it, it might be yours too!

Seriously though I better see an older white man with you as well as a beagle!

than ill get a picture of it tonight and post tomorrow. here is a picture of the harness (green arrow what i am referring to). i pulled it off and its corroded in there, and i dont know if the two wires insinde are supposed to start connected (if so i broke them) or if when the harness is connected and clipped the connections just touch each other

That man and beagle will not be there. I think he will get lost in some comedy club one night


Anyways, I still need to replace my thermostat

dis

Jake, don't check your trunk!

...and to guy with broken therm connector...get that fixed first. You may be able to open up the connector and get the pins back...you might see tiny pin holes on the side that let you open it up. If I understand you, the wires with the female 'pin' pulled out. You can buy the connector with wire and rebuild that pretty easily...an inline splice with solder and shrink wrap is the most secure. See youtube for 'how to solder a wire' if you didn't know...use fine rosin-core solder.

thank you that was my question, the connection just touch, its pretty corroded so i prolly should try and re build it, i will try and find one of those "thermo connectors"

Originally Posted by Solidjake

That man and beagle will not be there. I think he will get lost in some comedy club one night


Anyways, I still need to replace my thermostat

Uh oh, D. I think Jake put a hit on you. I recommend carrying your love kit in a fanny pack when you do your comedy gig... ya never know.

Thermostat still giving you problems? Wahler or Behr? I get paranoid about mine sometimes just due to all the stuff we read of early failures... then I think hmm if I'm going to replace the thermostat.. what else should I replace while in there

Is that what you honestly think...'what else can I replace?'

You should read Mango's cooling sticky...think you'll want to replace everything. Do it now!