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General E46 Forum
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:28 PM   #21
HallisterJ1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
...and if it's not the exhaust flap, then I'm betting on battery.

Say you have a known low battery...drive it a bit to the store. Start it up...taking the last little bit of reserve the car has...and maybe your battery is low because the alt is delivering weaker voltage.

Do a cluster test (#9) for voltage both off and on. Check bat connections, grounds...
Going to get a battery in the morning, nothing worked. Boots are all well connected, still brand new. ICV was clicking normally as it should, MAF re-cleaned...

I get it WORST when I'm on the freeway and it comes to dead stop in heavy traffic and I'm going 1-4mph, and then it'll start shaking and eventually get so bad the car sounds like its housing a jet engine, but it'll never stall or give me RPM problems, and it seems to go away once I drive off and maintain 60mph+ for a while.

As for the exhaust problem...would getting a new exhaust fix this problem? I was looking at getting one anyway.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:16 AM   #22
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Mentioned everything, well not exactly...everything's been kept OEM on this car, except Lemforder for FCAB (Shop Recommended)

Angel Eyes 81-LED
Carbon Fiber Emblems

My battery is old though, I'll be replacing it in a bit.
Uhh... Lemforder IS OEM.

Genuine BMW is OE.

Do not get those terms mixed up.

And what is this forum saying? Exhaust flap causing stalls? battery causing stalls?? huh?? how???

OP: misfire and/or vacuum leak. When you experience these vibrations, take note at what your RPMs are and report back. Are they dipping around 500 RPM and below?
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:28 AM   #23
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OP...not to disagree with Mango, but based on your last post, I think it is a low battery causing your issues...and I think your battery is low because of your alternator.

Let us know the numbers. If you have a charger, you should hook it up. If you get a jump start, then make sure you're measuring voltage on cluster so you can see what alt is putting out when the car is started. I think you'll find it's considerably below the 14V it should be.

I don't think it's the battery, but we'll see.

Don't get a new exhaust. You have a code for exhaust flap...and now, all that might be attributed to low voltage...maybe...but look up the tailpipe tips and see if you see a flap inside. They get rusted closed I hear. I don't have one myself...whew!

Edit: btw, that clicking wasn't the icv, I don't think...I think it was the starter solenoid...reacting to low voltage.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:14 PM   #24
HallisterJ1
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Update:

BMW Master Tech looked at my air boots, everything was intact and no air was leaking. Brand new battery...really don't notice anything different.

I'm thinking this is definitely mounts. Slappin them on in a bit.


It only gets bad when I'm going uphill/going really slow in traffic. But it will never make the car stall, it just makes the worst shaking, and the noise sounds like a F-22 is in my engine.

If I was going downhill for the rest of my life, I would literally never have this problem. (Tested going downhill, stopping and parking going down a local road)

Any more suggestions possibly?
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:16 PM   #25
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Update:

BMW Master Tech looked at my air boots, everything was intact and no air was leaking. Brand new battery...really don't notice anything different.

I'm thinking this is definitely mounts. Slappin them on in a bit.


It only gets bad when I'm going uphill/going really slow in traffic. But it will never make the car stall, it just makes the worst shaking, and the noise sounds like a F-22 is in my engine.

If I was going downhill for the rest of my life, I would literally never have this problem. (Tested going downhill, stopping and parking going down a local road)

Any more suggestions possibly?
My suggestion is to do everything in my sig--specifically engine-related items. Most are cheap or even free.
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