* E46 Cooling Guide (Information w/parts list/bleeding) *

man. those bottom water hoses on both the radiator and the ET are a biatch! I can't seem to get them off. I was just going to pull the whole shebang out with them attached, but the radiator won't come out with them both attached.

Just went to realoem.com to look up the part number for the A/C tensioner because I thought I forgot to order it, even with all the discussion on here about it, and remembered that I in fact did order it - its that DAYCO one that I ordered from Amazon - it just didn't come in yet. Hopefully it will tomorrow.



Anyway, the things all apart now - hope I can get her back together.

also make sure the hose clips are not still holding the hoses on.
I pull the clips completely off when pulling off hoses just to make sure they're not hanging up in the grooves.

my two cents for this DIY:

First another question: What do you guys clean off the aluminum where the thermostat and water pump seal up against the engine? Mine are looking pretty corroded and I'm not sure what to clean them with or how?

1. Order new bolts for your thermostat P/N 11 53 1 740 317. They are cheap to replace and probably rusted bad like mine were anyway.
2. When removing your ET, you don't have to remove the bottom most water hose - it stays attached to the ET carrier. I had to take a hammer to the bottom of my ET (hammering UP) to remove mine...this was after trying to get that bottom hose off for over an hour, thinking it was what was holding it on. It wasn't. I went as far as to remove the alternator cooling vent duct to try getting that bottom hose off - to no avail.
3. Make sure that you give yourself time for the unexpected. I.E. when removing the water pump, one of the bolts from the thermostat that I was using to loosen it got stuck then snapped. Luckily I was able to jiggle the water pump free anyway.
4. Make sure you have ALL the parts before you start. I did not, and my car is now sitting in the garage opened up. I need new thremostat bolts (hopefully the stealership has them in stock) and I forgot about my A/C belt tensioner which hasn't come in yet from Amazon.
5. The Bentley manual is neat - but don't rely on it for all the details - they are missing for this DIY.

Most of my components were date stamped on the tags. All that were had a date of 2004. My car was built in Sep of 2004, so they were all original. Most were in pretty bad shape and would have failed soon I'm sure. So if you are double thinking this like I was, I say do it. It will save you from an emergency repair and high dollars if anything is blows out on the highway and you overheat or are stranded.

Thanks again for this site! I'm not done with my coolant overhaul yet, but feel pretty confident that with a little patience and time, I'll get it all completed and put back together by the weekend.

Stay safe and warm - looks like most of us on the east are in for a cold snap.

Originally Posted by caleb6

man. those bottom water hoses on both the radiator and the ET are a biatch! I can't seem to get them off. I was just going to pull the whole shebang out with them attached, but the radiator won't come out with them both attached.

Just went to realoem.com to look up the part number for the A/C tensioner because I thought I forgot to order it, even with all the discussion on here about it, and remembered that I in fact did order it - its that DAYCO one that I ordered from Amazon - it just didn't come in yet. Hopefully it will tomorrow.



Anyway, the things all apart now - hope I can get her back together.

I pulled out my radiator with both hoses attached through the bottom of the car

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Originally Posted by caleb6

my two cents for this DIY:

First another question: What do you guys clean off the aluminum where the thermostat and water pump seal up against the engine? Mine are looking pretty corroded and I'm not sure what to clean them with or how?

If the Al surface is corroded some, clean it first with a gasket scraper and then perhaps an easy touch with some medium/fine wetsand paper.
If you think the gasket will not make up to the surface properly, consider some gasket sealer to fill in the recesses. And let it set for a few hours before filling the system. Overnight is best.

Originally Posted by erice46

I pulled out my radiator with both hoses attached through the bottom of the car

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I got the smaller one on the ET side off, but left the bigger one on, and did the same - pulled it out through the bottom.

I picked up new nuts for the water pump, new bolts for both the thermostat and w/p pulley at the dealers today - should get it all back together tonight and see how it works tomorrow. fingers crossed that I can remember how to put it all back together now, its been two days.

Originally Posted by caleb6

I got the smaller one on the ET side off, but left the bigger one on, and did the same - pulled it out through the bottom.

I picked up new nuts for the water pump, new bolts for both the thermostat and w/p pulley at the dealers today - should get it all back together tonight and see how it works tomorrow. fingers crossed that I can remember how to put it all back together now, its been two days.

Its not too complicated I did mine last week youll see once yo u get to it

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Meh so expansion tank busted, bought everything except expansion tank mounting plate (even though I wanted this too, snapped retaining spot where tank sort of "clips" in.

Took roughly 2 and a half hours, started bleeding system and then saw coolant pour out and I was baffled... Had to push the expansion tank down even further so it latched on, originally I was scared I'd break something pushing it so hard while holding the retainer but finally went in. Bled it, all good now running at 95C

Parts with O-rings go together much easier if you lube the O-ring with silicone O-ring lube. Just a little smear works miracles.

Originally Posted by Stinger9

Parts with O-rings go together much easier if you lube the O-ring with silicone O-ring lube. Just a little smear works miracles.

Coolant work great also

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So I got everything back together. Car wouldn't start though as when bleeding I left the lights on and the door open and killed the battery. Jumped it and it started right up. Is running right in the middle on the temp gauge.

However, I couldn't get the two screws that hold the ET to the ET carrier all the way in - they are about half sticking out. They stripped - they are both in such hard to reach places. Otherwise running great and the "putting back together" part is pretty easy. Can't help but think something isn't put together quite right though, and it'll "blow" at any minute. Like the ET into the carrier like just mentioned, or one of the hoses isn't on tight enough, or those 10nM torqued bolts on the W/P and W/P pulley just aren't tight enough.

Not too worried though, I remember thinking the same thing after I finished my vanos rebuild - and it's held up.

thanks again for this thread Mango. Good stuff.

Now I have to figure out a few things:

1. vibration under load accelerating,
2. rear passenger window seal isnt' tight - wind noise is annoying,
3. A pillars are sagging - guess I'll have to order some of them, probably not till next fall though,
4. I'm starting to get the blower motor squeal - annoying more than anything.
5. I have a new fuel filter and complete suspension, and new passenger side window switch and complete center console sitting in my garage...oye!

there's no end is there? Maybe its about time to bite the bullet and get another 1-2 year old 5 series and ride out the remaining free maintenance and warranty under CPO for another 4 or 5 years.

Any other good websites that offer oem parts cheaper than ECS? other than Bavauto because i compared the two and oem parts are the same price if not a little more.

Easy to explore:

www.furiousmethod.com


Focus on rmeuropean and bmaparts

hello,
What a beautiful car!

Originally Posted by caleb6

there's no end is there? Maybe its about time to bite the bullet and get another 1-2 year old 5 series and ride out the remaining free maintenance and warranty under CPO for another 4 or 5 years.

You have a seven year aged car. Within relatively recent memory cars would be in the junk yard with those years and less mileage.
It is expected that lots of parts will be replaced to keep our cars driving like new, and reliable.

Originally Posted by lilac8899

hello,
What a beautiful car!

What a beautiful name from a land so far away from most of us!

Welcome to our board, and may you become a valued member.

Could you tell us more about BMW's in China? It would be interesting for many of us.

Originally Posted by Stinger9

Easy to explore:

www.furiousmethod.com


Focus on rmeuropean and bmaparts

Thanks so much!

Originally Posted by Mnprtltt

Any other good websites that offer oem parts cheaper than ECS? other than Bavauto because i compared the two and oem parts are the same price if not a little more.

I just ordered most of the expensive stuff from oembimmerparts.com. Parts were here in two days and they had better prices than anywhere else.

Originally Posted by Big Rick

I just ordered most of the expensive stuff from oembimmerparts.com. Parts were here in two days and they had better prices than anywhere else.

Thanks a lot Rick.

so my bottom left (with the coolant temp sensor) hose on the radiator doesn't seem to be connected on all the way straight. I can get the clip closed with no resistance at all, but it looks ever so slightly canted and appears to have a very small amount of coolant coming out from somewhere around that connection.

I took the fan back out and tried like hell to "snap" it into place - would wiggle and move, but just won't go on any further. System is fully filled with brand new coolant, so that should be providing the lubrication needed for the o ring.

After I played around with it I replaced the fan and then went for a very spirited 15 minute drive. on return there was one little drop of coolant clinging to the bottom of the connector. I put a piece of cardboard under it and am going to let it sit and see if it is still leaking.

Otherwise system looks and performs like new.