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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:02 PM   #3241
Greg@DetailedImage.com
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Originally Posted by egruber View Post
Maybe you can help with this one. I have a 2001 e46 convertible with the sand interior. I was cleaning the vinyl around the seat belt holders (on the top of the front seats) and around the door speakers. I noticed that my cloth was stained the sand color, and the surface of the vinyl was sticky when it dried. I used Vinylex. The more I applied it, the more color came off and the surface remained sticky when dry. Any idea why it does this? And how do I clean it so it isn't sticky?

I also wanted to add that being a convertible, the interior traps a lot of soot from the highways I take to work. It gets into all the nook and crannies. Vinylex and the various leather cleaners I have tried don't seem to do very much as far as cleaning, and the sheen they leave behind attracts the dirt even faster. How do the dealers get the leather/vinyl in these cars so clean?
Another forum member asked a somewhat similar question so I'll borrow some of my response from the message I posted for him. I use to carry the Vinylex product years ago but I dropped it, I just didn't think it was performing at a high level. It looked nice but too greasy and oily for my liking and it may not provide the best long term care for the interior. I personally use the Leatherique combo over the Lexol products and Vinylex. It does a better job of cleaning and conditioning the surface in my experience so you don't need to scrub so much. When you wipe off the excess product you should only be using light pressure with a clean/soft microfiber towel (ie DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel). Don't underestimate the importance of a good microfiber towel, they are integral in my experience. You can see how the Leatherique products are used in the detailing guide or our Ask a Pro Detailer Blog.

For the doors, dashboard, doors, console, carpets, fabrics, etc. I'm a big fan of the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover. It's a highly effective product that should help you clean quicker and with less scrubbing.

I hope this info helps!

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Old 09-22-2012, 01:24 PM   #3242
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Originally Posted by 500e View Post
Hi - I have been reading this thread and gotten tons of great information. I am new to advanced car detailing. I wanted to know what products you would recommend for Wax/Sealant & Polish for a Titanium Silver M3? I find it difficult to make Silver pop compared to colors like Imola Red etc. In less light silver looks a bit better compared to in direct sun IMO.

What polish and wax sealant is best and if there is one you would recommend specifically for Silver M3's that would be great (want more depth and detail to come through), also the car is new to me so I dont know what kind of products it may have on it from the previous owner, so I want to do a full detail and need a few recommendations on products. Here is the process I was planning on following, can you please review and let me know if you think it looks correct and recoomend the correct products for each step:

1- Snow Foam Car
2- Wash & Dry Car
3- Clay Bar Car (was planning on getting the Clay Magic 200g but need to know which lubricant is best)
4-Polish
5-Sealant
6-Wax (Need clarification on 5/6, is sealant in the wax, or is it a seperate step and product?)
7- Tire Dressing (Need recommendation on deep glossy shine product, but something that wont spin off the wheels onto the car, I also read in the post you recommend using water based for light shine and ontop add silicone for deep shine)
8- Wheel detailing (I have the 19" wheels and wanted to know what you would recommend in terms of process and products to get the most shine out of the wheels)

Engine Bay detail: This makes me very nervous I dont know if I would want to spray a hose in my engine. Would you be able to recommend a Safe way to detail the engine bay/products?


Thanks in advance!
Thank you for the message I'd be happy to help your new vehicle looking it's best again. Silver can look incredible with the right care. In general I use the same polishes on all colors but sealants and waxes can sometimes look better on certain colors. I'll go over your questions below:

1.) I'd recommend this kit for a great value and the shampoos you need - DI Packages Foamaster II Starter Kit. Wash with the Citrus Wash and Clear to strip off any old sealant or wax on the paint. After you apply a sealant or wax use the Maxi Suds II for maintenance washes, it won't strip off protection.

2.) If you want the wash mitt, drying towels, pre-wash degreaser, etc. in one great kit skip the first kit and pick up this one - http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Pack...nced-Kit-P368/. This has just about everything you could need for a top quality wash and dry at a great price!

3.) Clay Bar
Helps deep clean the paint, we have a great value with our bar and a lube -
DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube. The Clay Magic is great too and if you pick that up we have tons of great lubes but the Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe (S&W) is a favorite of mine.

4.) Polish
This is the step where you actually remove the swirls for good and restore that like new shine again! A buffer is a huge help here as it can more thoroughly work in the polish and really get maximum results. If interested in picking up one the Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer is a completely safe and easy to use tool that will greatly improve your results. I'd recommend a two step polishing combination to really make the paint pop!
Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 - Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad 2x
Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - Lake Country White Polishing Pad 2x

If you are not interested in a buffer or if it's not within your budget then just pick up the M205 listed above and apply that by hand with a foam applicator and medium pressure.

5. Sealant
Protect the shine and enhance it! Some sealants have wax in them and conversely some waxes have sealant in them. A sealant will usually protect much longer and it's super easy to apply.
Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger - Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad 1x or applied by hand with a clean foam applicator

6. Wax
A sealant provides more than enough protection and an outstanding shine so you can certainly stop there. If you want the maximum gloss apply a wax on top of the sealant. The P21S Concours Carnauba Wax is one of my favorites on silver paint. If you're budget is a bit bigger the Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Soft Wax looks incredible on any lighter color and offers excellent protection. These waxes would both be applied by hand with a clean applicator.

Hand remove all of these products with CLEAN microfiber towels. I highly recommend picking up about 5x - 10x DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel.


7.)Tire Care
TUF SHINE Tire Appearance Kit is easily my favorite tire care product, just thoroughly clean the tires with the supplied cleaner and the tire clear coat will provide you a shine that lasts MONTHS, not days or weeks. This is the only dressing you'll need and it's outstanding while good for your tires!

8.) Wheel Care
To clean the wheels I highly recommend the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect. It's my favorite wheel cleaner because of how effectively it breaks down brake dust and road grime. Best of all it's pH neutral so it's safe on your wheels and you don't have to worry about any staining or discoloration. After you have thoroughly cleaned them you can protect them with virtually any sealant or pick up a wheel specific product like the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. It's a great way to protect the wheel's finish and it makes future cleanings much easier! It applies with ease, smells amazing and one jar can protect 100+ wheels.

I hope this answers your questions!

Greg
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:36 PM   #3243
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Originally Posted by Milla View Post
Hey Greg!

Love DI, always order from you guys. Beat the prices of everyone I've ever looked at...

Quick question:

-- Leatherique seems to over-dry my seats. Just bought Chemical Guys leather care. Anything else you'd recommend to try and bring my black seats back to their best? I want them to be soft and clean.... Heard Zymol Treat is awesome but wanted an expert's opinion.

Thanks and keep up the great work, guys!
Thank you for the high praise, it's sincerely appreciated!

I'm surprised to read the Leatherique products were not working for you as expected. Please remember leather should naturally be relatively matte. A glossy shine is not natural to leather so if the seats are matte that is fine but they shouldn't look and feel dry. If that is not the issue my guess is that you may be using too much Prestine Clean at the end or not enough Rejuvenator. I tend to use about 1 - 2 oz of Rej first on the front seats each and about .5 - 1 oz of PC on those seats each. This amount will vary depending on how dry and contaminated they are.

If you want to enhance the appearance and add UV protection afterward the Optimum Protectant Plus (Leather Protectant) is a good choice. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

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Old 09-22-2012, 01:40 PM   #3244
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Originally Posted by dogbox46 View Post
Here's kind of a silly question... I used Menzerna Power Lock on my 2000 Orient Blue coupe on the weekend and it looks incredible!

The only problem is now it seems to be a complete dust magnet.

I have a California Duster (I know, I know) that I use lightly each morning before heading off to work and even the duster doesn't seem to pick up the dust now.

Am I missing something or is this normal after using a product like Power Lock?

Thanks.
Glad to hear you got that great shine from the Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant, it's one of my favorite sealants. In general it won't attract dust but it's possible there is a bit of a static charge on the surface. You could try wiping it down with a quick detailer like the Chemical Guys Speed Wipe (Anti-Static) Quick Detailer and two microfiber towels. The duster may also be adding a charge to the surface as well, but that is just a guess on my part. It's also possible that with a perfectly clean vehicle you just notice build ups more frequently. Hope this helps!

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Old 09-30-2012, 03:24 PM   #3245
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You may have covered this before, but I use my convertable all the time with the top down. It is my commuter care and I try to keep it looking good. The exterior is great but the interior get road grime on it and looks crappy. What is the best cleaner to use to get that black road grime off the leather and the top cover?
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:54 PM   #3246
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I am sure you have covered this, but its taking me forever to try to read 65 pages of posts. So, here it is: what do you recommend to clean and maintain my E46 M3 OEM 19" rims with? Are they just polished or clear coated? Also, I have a spot on my trunk that I'm not sure what got on it, but there is a small spot smaller than a dime that looks like the clear has been eaten through. It just looks like bare paint. What might I use to try to make it look better? Lastly, what products do you recommend for my convertible top? Thanks for all your great advice. I've learned a lot about detailing from this thread.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #3247
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Thanks so much for the thread, I just have one question:

Would you recommend applying a gloss enhancer (such as Wet Glaze 2.0) before or after waxing? Usually I wash, clay, compound, polish, then wax. Just wondering your opinion, thanks for everything this thread has been extremely helpful!
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:53 AM   #3248
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Please tell me how to remove dried on road paint from my wifes textured black plastic parts?
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:56 AM   #3249
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Have you tried out the Lake Country Hybrid wool? I have just picked it up to pair with my Flex 3401 and this is the first time using Wool. What is the appropriate way to prime it and clean it? Using M105. Also, with regards to pressure, should I apply less or more with wool as opposed to foam? Do I need to slow down the speed similarly to MF?
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:57 PM   #3250
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I used opti-seal on my car and my mothers brand new F30 328 and it lasted 2 weeks max each after 3-4 rainy days throughout that period on both of our cars. Her's had 1 coat and mine had 2 coats of Chemical Guys XXX paste wax on after the opti-seal. Am I doing something wrong? I've been using the XXX wax before, but I never experienced deterioration like this. Top panels did fine, but it's the lower panels that get dirt and road debris that experienced the most deterioration.

I've been moderately detailing for a while now, so I know my ways about sealant and waxes but I feel like I didn't do anything wrong. Especially because I followed advised cure times.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby24 View Post
Have you tried out the Lake Country Hybrid wool? I have just picked it up to pair with my Flex 3401 and this is the first time using Wool. What is the appropriate way to prime it and clean it? Using M105. Also, with regards to pressure, should I apply less or more with wool as opposed to foam? Do I need to slow down the speed similarly to MF?
Are you wet-sanding? I wouldn't use wool for anything other than wet-sanding or on extremely faded paint.

After much work with M105/M205, I've found Menzerna polishes to work the best. particularly matched with a green pad (recently replaced w/ pink)
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:16 AM   #3251
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need a little direction

I have a jet black E46 as a daily driver I have decided I want to do a full paint correction if possible. My problem is the front has what I think others call road rash. there are tons and tons of little rock pecks and rock chips. How do i correct this? I am an intermediate in skill I also have a e92 M3 that I keep as perfect as i can. If there is any technique or product suggestions you have I would appreciate the help.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:52 AM   #3252
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Originally Posted by nike001 View Post
I used opti-seal on my car and my mothers brand new F30 328 and it lasted 2 weeks max each after 3-4 rainy days throughout that period on both of our cars. Her's had 1 coat and mine had 2 coats of Chemical Guys XXX paste wax on after the opti-seal. Am I doing something wrong? I've been using the XXX wax before, but I never experienced deterioration like this. Top panels did fine, but it's the lower panels that get dirt and road debris that experienced the most deterioration.

I've been moderately detailing for a while now, so I know my ways about sealant and waxes but I feel like I didn't do anything wrong. Especially because I followed advised cure times.




http://www.autogeek.net/wg5500.html?...m_campaign=CSE

I am no pro-detailer, but I do detailing on the side/hobby for other people. I find the Wolfgang sealent is probably my favorite. It has a sick shine, and depth, and it should last a good 4-6 months depending on how the car is treated, garaged, washed regularly, rain etc..

I have never used the opti-seal but I have only read good things on it, it sucks that it didn't last long for you..
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:45 AM   #3253
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Originally Posted by nike001 View Post
Are you wet-sanding? I wouldn't use wool for anything other than wet-sanding or on extremely faded paint.

After much work with M105/M205, I've found Menzerna polishes to work the best. particularly matched with a green pad (recently replaced w/ pink)
Sometimes, yes. On some vehicles the paint is so hard, I cannot get away with M105/205 on any foam, MF, or surbuf pad.

Just too time consuming and the results aren't as good as I want.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:49 AM   #3254
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Other than Esoteric Auto's training/certification, can you offer any other good training programs/classes? I would like to expand into doing some detail jobs on the side and would like to have some additional training first to verify my process.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:40 AM   #3255
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thanks for the information very helpful!
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:39 PM   #3256
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Great stuff, saving this thread for later.
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:59 AM   #3257
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I have just purchased a 2001 E46 318i that must have been parked in the street for many years as after washing it carefully and trying to polish, the surface was still very rough.

Having searched for this thread, and finding it now stretches to 163 pages, I copied and read carefully posts 4, 5 and 6 from George of Detailed Images.

Now I have been working around motorbikes and cars for over 50 years and have never used clay before, but George's post convinced me to give it a try.

Here in Australia, many of the brands mentioned are not available, and after 7 years since the thread started, I am sure recommendations have changed, but who is going to read 163 pages to find the latest?

I purchased a pack of Mother's California Gold Clay Bar from my local Auto Store and set to work. For a few seconds you could feel the clay working and then it just glided over the surface. Even my 7-year-old grandson was amazed at the feel of the areas done compared to those yet to do.

Where has this stuff been? I was always scared to use such a product fearing it would scratch and damage the duco.

I am amazed and recommend those that have not tried it to do so.

I have still to polish the car but already it is looking magnificent.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:04 AM   #3258
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Originally Posted by TitanSilverE46 View Post
I have just purchased a 2001 E46 318i that must have been parked in the street for many years as after washing it carefully and trying to polish, the surface was still very rough.

Having searched for this thread, and finding it now stretches to 163 pages, I copied and read carefully posts 4, 5 and 6 from George of Detailed Images.

Now I have been working around motorbikes and cars for over 50 years and have never used clay before, but George's post convinced me to give it a try.

Here in Australia, many of the brands mentioned are not available, and after 7 years since the thread started, I am sure recommendations have changed, but who is going to read 163 pages to find the latest?

I purchased a pack of Mother's California Gold Clay Bar from my local Auto Store and set to work. For a few seconds you could feel the clay working and then it just glided over the surface. Even my 7-year-old grandson was amazed at the feel of the areas done compared to those yet to do.

Where has this stuff been? I was always scared to use such a product fearing it would scratch and damage the duco.

I am amazed and recommend those that have not tried it to do so.

I have still to polish the car but already it is looking magnificent.
Just used a mothers clay bar tonight. Stuff works wonders.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:36 AM   #3259
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Just looking for a quick answer to a couple quick questions:
I just purchased poorboy's SSR 2.5 and SSR1 from detailed image. How much of the product should I apply to the paint (using a pad or microfiber towel)? Do I need to do the whole car to make it look even or can I just do certain areas? I plan on using these 2 products after a wash. Am I done with my car after using the SSR or is it a MUST that I apply a polish or wax after the SSR?
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:28 AM   #3260
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Greg,

Are these scratches removalable? paint in question is original factory single stage paint (black)

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