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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 01-23-2013, 11:14 PM   #261
driftingSOCALE46
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UP AND RUNNING, gonna get a custom exhaust made since these chinese headers cant really mount to the stock exhaust (I forced em together with a floor jack and hammer), I KNOW THATS HORRIBLE but I cant loose any more hours of work so hope it holds up for a month till I can afford the custom exhaust
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:37 PM   #262
driftingSOCALE46
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up and running and have an exhaust leak, MOTHER ****ER!!!! sounds like the headers but I did somewhat force the exhaust onto the flanges missed enough work had to get it up and running. ****ING CHINESE ****
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:51 PM   #263
driftingSOCALE46
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how do you know it you tightened the 11mm nuts to hard on the manifold? I went back to stock after 2 weeks cuz the chinese headers were way off at the flanges which was making me worry. if I tightened it as hard as I can with a 1/4 in drive ratchet is it to much? quick response please
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:59 PM   #264
driftingSOCALE46
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btw I have done this by myself, but the problem Im having is the torque on the 11mm nuts on the exhaust manifold, tried to tighten it as tight as I could with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet started car and think I blew the gasket from not being tight enough
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:17 PM   #265
driftingSOCALE46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdjohny View Post
Hi
Great write up
Can anyone tell me how much is the power gain just from the headers on 330 2001 coupe??
Thanks a lot
I felt a huge difference, maybe 15 hp... but car was way more responsive like when I was in a lower gear it took off like a beast. On freeway flooring it at 60 with stock manifold was slow but with headers it was like DAMN IM AT 80 ALREADY
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:55 AM   #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by \\V View Post
E46 Header Installation Guide

Parts needed:

Aftermarket Headers (be sure you have the right one that fits your car)
OEM header gasket (Tischer BMW or local dealership)
Spark Plug Non-Foulers (found at local Auto store): http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...lug+non-fouler
Threadlocker or Loctight (found at local Auto store)
WD-40 (for loosening rusted nuts/bolts)
Masking or Blue painter’s tape (for labeling 02 sensors)


Tools needed:

Allen wrenches
Phillips screw driver
Rachet
10, 11 (short & long drive), 13, 16mm socket
11 and 22 mm open/box wrench
Pliers or Adjustable wrench
OEM Jack and/or Hydraulic Jacks
Jack stands



(modified version of dubplaya’s install guide)


1. Place your front wheels on ramps or jack stands.

----- Jack stands (especially for lowered vehicles): Use your OEM jack (or Hydraulic jack) to jack up either side of your car using the front jack point underneath the side skirt.
----- Now locate the center jack point underneath (There should be a circle indentation located in the front of the car right in the middle).
----- Once you find it use your second jack to lift the front end high enough in order to place the jack stands securely underneath the front jack points (underneath the side skirt)

(courtesy of berserker)




2. Remove the engine covers (four 10mm bolts), cabin filter and housing (four allen wrench bolts)

(courtesy of Minnoe07)








3. Remove the secondary air pump (three 10mm bolts). There’s two on the top and one on the bottom. Remove the connected plug.

(courtesy of Minnoe07)






**** At this point you can remove and label the top two 02 sensors (22mm) you see above with blue/masking tape (ex. L1, L2, R1, R2)


4. Remove the underbody tray cover (six screws with Phillips head). After you remove it, slide the cover towards the rear of the car.


(courtesy of Minnoe07)




5. Remove the metal subframe brace (eight 16mm bolts)

(courtesy of Minnoe07)




6. Support the bottom of the motor with a jack and 2x4

7. Unbolt the connecting ground wire from the car coming from the engine mount (13mm)


(courtesy of Minnoe07)




8. Unbolt the passenger side engine mount (four 13mm bolts)

9. Remove the bolt holding the passenger engine mount (16mm)

10. Remove Passenger Side engine mount.

**** At this point, you can label and remove the remaining two 02 sensors (22mm) you see below on the headers (ex. L1, L2, R1, R2)


11. Remove the OEM headers and gaskets(sixteen 11mm nuts, eight on each header)

----- You will be spending most of your time here at this point.
----- Start first on the header (longest one) closest to the front of the car.

**** At this point, you can take a break to soak the nuts and bolts w/ WD-40 removing the rust.

(courtesy of Minnoe07)




12. Install the new OEM gasket and aftermarket headers.

----- Start with the header closest to the front of the car because it will be easier to maneuver the second header in.
----- Make sure you apply Threadlocker or Loctight on the last couple of millimeters of thread before tightening.
----- Be sure to have a paper towel (or Q-tips) handy to wipe off any excess that forms around the hex nut because the product will harden. Do not get any of this stuff in your hair or eyes.

13. Re-install the 02 sensors and spark plug non-foulers in the correct locations

14. With the passenger engine mount, use a pair of pliers or adjustable wrench to remove the excess heat shield. This will help with header clearance.

15. Reverse steps 10 thru 1

----- If you’re having trouble getting the engine mount back in, start with one end (the side w/ four bolts) coming in towards the front of the car then turning it.
----- If you’re having trouble bolting the engine mount back on, start with two bolts in at first tightening them down one by one. Be sure not to strip any threads.
----- After you re-install the passenger side engine mount and ground wire. Start up the car to check and see if you have any leaks.
----- You will see some smoke rise off the headers at first from the Threadlock/Loctight, which will burn off after a few minutes.
sorry to bring this back 5 years after original post but it seems this is the only diy for e46 headers on the internet and the pictures no longer show up. Anybody know of another diy for headers? searched and searched and couldn't find a full walkthrough with pics.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:10 AM   #267
E46Moonlight
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The pictures were rehosted I think on page 3?
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:32 AM   #268
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Originally Posted by E46Moonlight View Post
The pictures were rehosted I think on page 3?
not there
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:40 PM   #269
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Originally Posted by zooswanko View Post
sorry to bring this back 5 years after original post but it seems this is the only diy for e46 headers on the internet and the pictures no longer show up. Anybody know of another diy for headers? searched and searched and couldn't find a full walkthrough with pics.
Here are the pics! Post #15 on first page:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...1&postcount=15
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:42 PM   #270
Princemiro
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I'm installing headers that I bought from trader-nas on my 03 z4 3.0i. He acknowledges that the headers for the e46 are not the same fitment for my car. He sold me a pair that he says will fit my car. This thread is great. I just have one question. I bought the oem head gaskets and they only have 8 holes for the 8 studs that the stock manifold uses. The aftermarket headers have 12 holes. Do I just drill the remaining 4 holes into the oem gaskets or does BMW sell a set with 12 holes? I'd appreciate it if someone could get back to me on this asap because if there's a part I need to order, I have to order it today or tomorrow so that I have it in time for the installation this Saturday. Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:11 PM   #271
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Bump for any input on this? Still haven't done the install. Hoping to get it done this weekend. Should I drill more holes? Or just use the existing number of holes/studs used for stock manifold?
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:06 AM   #272
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Re: DIY: E46 Header Installation Guide

I used the existing number of holes and studs. So far I have no leaks. Also I used the gaskets that came with the headers because they were thicker, just in case that if the flanges weren't straight, the thicker gasket would make up for it.

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Old 08-06-2013, 09:14 AM   #273
Princemiro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carb View Post
I used the existing number of holes and studs. So far I have no leaks. Also I used the gaskets that came with the headers because they were thicker, just in case that if the flanges weren't straight, the thicker gasket would make up for it.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
I actually didn't get gaskets with the headers from trader-nas. So I bought OEM gaskets. I hope they do the job. But thanks to you I at least know I can use the stock number of studs.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:43 PM   #274
halo0
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Does anyone know the part number for the bolts that hold the header to the midpipe? Based on the appearance of mine, I think I'm going to want new bolts and nuts.

Also I don't see it specifically mentioned but my guess is it would be easiest to unbolt those first, before the header studs?
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Last edited by halo0; 04-29-2014 at 03:33 PM.
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