* E46 Cooling Guide (Information w/parts list/bleeding) *

Bottom RIGHT hose has the coolant temp sensor on it. Learn this stuff well so we know what you are talking about.

Did you lube well?
Remove, clean, reposition O-ring, lube and retry.
Full system does not do what you need. Sorry, you need to drain.
I'd not leave my car where yours is now.

Originally Posted by Stinger9

Bottom RIGHT hose has the coolant temp sensor on it. Learn this stuff well so we know what you are talking about.

Did you lube well?
Remove, clean, reposition O-ring, lube and retry.
Full system does not do what you need. Sorry, you need to drain.
I'd not leave my car where yours is now.

left from front looking down. right from drivers seat. sorry, is the drivers position the correct reference for all directions all the time?

Originally Posted by caleb6

is the drivers position the correct reference for all directions all the time?

yes

so i drained and pulled the RIGHT side hose off the radiator. I put it back on, it snapped into place and I locked it down. Still looks ever so canted - not much better then before. I'm going to run it like this for a few days, keeping a close eye on it, and see how it goes.

I mean it's locked into place - could have just been loose the first time, then residue coolant leaking out around the next few times I checked. We'll see.

I will have to add this(since it is my problem now)the LOWER RADIATOR HOSE TEMPERATURE SENSOR COOLANT!,I have a 2003 330ci A/T,the dash was constantly showing the lower coolant level warning light..it was hard to find,but today showed it was the culprit,the o ring in this sensor degraded and allowed a small amount of coolant to drip....my two cent here!

Originally Posted by Fabe330ci

I will have to add this(since it is my problem now)the LOWER RADIATOR HOSE TEMPERATURE SENSOR COOLANT!,I have a 2003 330ci A/T,the dash was constantly showing the lower coolant level warning light..it was hard to find,but today showed it was the culprit,the o ring in this sensor degraded and allowed a small amount of coolant to drip....my two cent here!

Clarification please.
Which are you talking about?
The low coolant level sensor has no O-ring.
The sensor on the lower hose is not a level sensor.

Originally Posted by Stinger9

Clarification please.
Which are you talking about?
The low coolant level sensor has no O-ring.
The sensor on the lower hose is not a level sensor.

+1

Level sensor (Bottom of ET)will report to the low coolant "mango light®", and has no O ring.

Fan switch/Temp sensor on lower hose has an O ring, if you have a leak here the level at the ET diminishes, and triggers the low coolant light...followed by overheating.

Regardless, glad you sorted it out.

Originally Posted by Stinger9

Clarification please.
Which are you talking about?
The low coolant level sensor has no O-ring.
The sensor on the lower hose is not a level sensor.

The sensor i'm talking about is located at one of the ends of the lower radiator hose,that fan switch sensor has an o-ring/seal,once the seal goes bad,coolant starts dripping from the sensor's housing,thus the coolant level decreases and then triggers the colant level sensor...makes sense now?

Originally Posted by Fabe330ci

...makes sense now?

Yes

Everyone replaces this sensor with O-ring when they replace the lower coolant hose.

Its a good kit, I just used the kit from pelicanparts.com which came with all the necessary and is around $400. I added a new oem expansion tank, Ac belt, and idler pulley. Total was around 520.
*no radiator included.
Radiator is approx an additional 200



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Bimmer App

Ps. It comes with the o ring!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Bimmer App

Originally Posted by GroggyCarpet

Its a good kit, I just used the kit from pelicanparts.com which came with all the necessary and is around $400. I added a new oem expansion tank, Ac belt, and idler pulley. Total was around 520.
*no radiator included.
Radiator is approx an additional 200

$400 with no radiator or ET doesn't sound too competitive.

And new oe rad is under $150

Can edit posts.

Mango, I know you had been looking for the TIS bleeding instructions for our E46 M54's I just got the TIS so I screen printed it.

Originally Posted by 7xWDC-MSC

Mango, I know you had been looking for the TIS bleeding instructions for our E46 M54's I just got the TIS so I screen printed it.

awesome.good stuff

Can I ask you a question about the bleeding TIS. Should we put the car on ramps before we remove everything? How do I move it to ramps once I have no coolant? Trying to figure out the best way.

Thanks,Joe

Can I ask you a question about the bleeding TIS. Should we put the car on ramps before we remove everything? How do I move it to ramps once I have no coolant? Trying to figure out the best way.

Thanks,Joe

I did my cooling system refresh starting out on ramps and kept it there for the whole job. No need to bleed until you're back on level ground.

Can anyone confirm the washer for the block is copper and not silver? The one I received from BMA parts is copper per the part # from Mango.

I have no doubt that the washer you received will work just fine.
As long as it fits the plug, use it and relax.

Originally Posted by SeattleLSB

Can anyone confirm the washer for the block is copper and not silver? The one I received from BMA parts is copper per the part # from Mango.

The ETK does in fact call for aluminum, but I don't see why copper couldn't be used in place.There isn't anything in the cooling system that will eat copper.