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Old 06-15-2012, 02:26 PM   #821
dvsntt
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Does someone have a PDF of the service bulletin for the sub-frame inspection? Tahnsk.
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:28 PM   #822
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^ i think you may have voided your warranty somewhere along the line...
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:57 PM   #823
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:32 PM   #824
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Nice! How much did it cost ya? Just the plates or foam too?
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:56 PM   #825
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Nice! How much did it cost ya? Just the plates or foam too?
Just the plates and all welding required to reinforce everything
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:46 PM   #826
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Just the plates and all welding required to reinforce everything
I would foam it....
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:15 PM   #827
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my subframe went yesterday...turner kit on monday
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:08 PM   #828
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I would foam it....
Is this something I can do?
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:22 PM   #829
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this is what happened to mine.......currently being fixed at RRT

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Old 06-27-2012, 08:53 AM   #830
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this is what happened to mine.......currently being fixed at RRT

Wow yours also broke through a bit. Crazy to see how common an issue this is
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:24 AM   #831
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Do wagons have this same issue?
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:48 AM   #832
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What's the consensus on why some cars are fine and others fail? Metal fatigue due to exposure to the elements? Driving habits? Bushings failing causing excessive movement at the mounting point?

I just cleaned up and thoroughly inspected my rear subframe mounting points and found no cracks or signs of failures. My car has 109k miles on with and was a florida car its whole life so very little exposure to snow/salt. All the rubber bushings on the car seem to be in unusually good shape given the mileage. I am curious to know if it's as simple as keeping up on the bushings to ensure the subframe is mounted securely with movement reduced as much as possible to ensure the mounting point isn't constantly being flexed.
This looks to me like classic metal fatigue and fracture propagation - and unfortunately looks to be due to a lack of proper fatigue analysis at this joint. The only preventative measures you could really take at this point are to somehow reduce the stresses in this joint, strengthen the joint, or harden the surface in an attempt to arrest any new cracks from nucleating and growing.

In all honesty, all these measures involve nearly the same amount of labor and effort as repairing the fracture once it occurs. The measures some BMW shops took to "fix" these issues by filling the cracks with a resin is completely stupid and no-more than a band-aid to the issue.

Stress concentrations that cause cracks to grow occur at the crack tips where plastic deformation occurs. Filling a growing crack with a substance only band-aids the issue while temporarily increasing the force necessary to open the crack, the stress concentration is still present at the tips and the crack will eventually continue to propagate.

So if you do end up getting the issue fixed - make sure the area is properly repaired with the sheet metal "kits" that are available, do NOT let BMW fill the crack with a resin or compound.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:17 AM   #833
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This looks to me like classic metal fatigue and fracture propagation - and unfortunately looks to be due to a lack of proper fatigue analysis at this joint. The only preventative measures you could really take at this point are to somehow reduce the stresses in this joint, strengthen the joint, or harden the surface in an attempt to arrest any new cracks from nucleating and growing.

In all honesty, all these measures involve nearly the same amount of labor and effort as repairing the fracture once it occurs. The measures some BMW shops took to "fix" these issues by filling the cracks with a resin is completely stupid and no-more than a band-aid to the issue.

Stress concentrations that cause cracks to grow occur at the crack tips where plastic deformation occurs. Filling a growing crack with a substance only band-aids the issue while temporarily increasing the force necessary to open the crack, the stress concentration is still present at the tips and the crack will eventually continue to propagate.

So if you do end up getting the issue fixed - make sure the area is properly repaired with the sheet metal "kits" that are available, do NOT let BMW fill the crack with a resin or compound.
You're a materials guy eh?
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:21 PM   #834
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:44 AM   #835
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You're a materials guy eh?
Sort of - I'm a stress/failure analyst. Materials guys are a bit more...microscopic. Usually working in labs developing and testing materials. Usually stress engineers are not working on the materials themselves, but the application of them.

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Old 09-06-2012, 07:17 PM   #836
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Damn... I'm too late......

Luckily it hasn't cracked in my 325xi.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:56 PM   #837
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Damn... I'm too late......

Luckily it hasn't cracked in my 325xi.
In all my reading, I don't think I've seen any sedans that have been affected. It seems to be limited to coupes.

I wish I knew why, but if we knew then we'd know a whole lot else that isn't being disseminated.
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:42 AM   #838
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My 1999 328i sedan was repaired by the dealer. I asked my service guy how many cars with the subframe mounting damage they've seen and he said they'd checked a few hundred and mine was only the third.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:12 PM   #839
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My 1999 328i sedan was repaired by the dealer. I asked my service guy how many cars with the subframe mounting damage they've seen and he said they'd checked a few hundred and mine was only the third.
I have a 2000 323i, manual. Just rolled 286k this morning on it. I had the repair completed last year.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:18 PM   #840
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I had my 05/99 323i repaired may '11 at bmw's expense sans the "other" damaged parts from the frame tearing so bad. ~130k on the clock at the time

P.s. they did the whole floorpan repair

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