Ask a professional detailer...

Greg, not sure if these questions have been asked (i.e. i did not read the entire thread), but i have a few:
1. what do you recommend that is 100% safe to clean anodized wheels?

i was planning on using a dilution of p21s total auto wash on the wheels when they are cold

2. what do you recommend for protection/sealant for the wheels?

i was told that prima wheel armour is safe. i have a brand new bottle of that. i had used poorboy's world wheel sealant on clearcoated wheels in the past and was happy with the results/protection. i was also told that this product is safe for anodized finishes/surfaces.

3. what wax do you recommend for the painted surfaces under the hood?

i am looking for a high temp wax. so far, i have only confirmed auto finesse mint rims wheel wax as being one.

tia.

I apologize I didn't get to this thread sooner! I'm going to answer some of the more recent questions now. If you ever need a quicker response please e-mail us at support at detailed image dot com.

Originally Posted by bullfrogs_M3

Other than Esoteric Auto's training/certification, can you offer any other good training programs/classes? I would like to expand into doing some detail jobs on the side and would like to have some additional training first to verify my process.

The Esoteric Elite Detailer Academy is awesome and I highly recommend it! Another option closer to you would be the The Detailing Pros in CA, which is also awesome. They do a great job of not only teaching you quality detail work but it's a long lasting group that sticks together long past graduation. Good luck!

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by TitanSilverE46

I have just purchased a 2001 E46 318i that must have been parked in the street for many years as after washing it carefully and trying to polish, the surface was still very rough.

Having searched for this thread, and finding it now stretches to 163 pages, I copied and read carefully posts 4, 5 and 6 from George of Detailed Images.

Now I have been working around motorbikes and cars for over 50 years and have never used clay before, but George's post convinced me to give it a try.

Here in Australia, many of the brands mentioned are not available, and after 7 years since the thread started, I am sure recommendations have changed, but who is going to read 163 pages to find the latest?

I purchased a pack of Mother's California Gold Clay Bar from my local Auto Store and set to work. For a few seconds you could feel the clay working and then it just glided over the surface. Even my 7-year-old grandson was amazed at the feel of the areas done compared to those yet to do.

Where has this stuff been? I was always scared to use such a product fearing it would scratch and damage the duco.

I am amazed and recommend those that have not tried it to do so.

I have still to polish the car but already it is looking magnificent.

Glad to hear the thread has been helpful. Locally in Australia I'd recommend http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/, they have a great selection and Mike is great to work with.

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by ngillan

Just looking for a quick answer to a couple quick questions:
I just purchased poorboy's SSR 2.5 and SSR1 from detailed image. How much of the product should I apply to the paint (using a pad or microfiber towel)? Do I need to do the whole car to make it look even or can I just do certain areas? I plan on using these 2 products after a wash. Am I done with my car after using the SSR or is it a MUST that I apply a polish or wax after the SSR?

I would generally suggest applying the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 to the whole vehicle for best results. If you have a few areas that need the SSR 2.5 you could just do them but then do the whole rest of the vehicle with the SSR 1. These polishes should help remove ultra imperfections and oxidation from the surface. The leave no protection behind so I'd highly recommend applying a sealant or wax afterward to enhance the shine you just created and protect the finish. Good luck!

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by kaboo0m

Greg,

Are these scratches removalable? paint in question is original factory single stage paint (black)

Are you sure the paint is single stage?

It's always hard to tell from a picture but I'm optimistic you can make a big improvement in the finish of the paint. A small portion of the scratch looks a bit too deep, but again hard to say. I would highly recommend you wash and clay the surface to help clean it. Next start off with a light polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 but most likely you'll need to move up to the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 to remove more of the imperfections. Follow up the M105 with the M205 to remove any haze left behind and that area should look significantly better. Good luck!

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by sg_wannabe

Greg, not sure if these questions have been asked (i.e. i did not read the entire thread), but i have a few:
1. what do you recommend that is 100% safe to clean anodized wheels?

i was planning on using a dilution of p21s total auto wash on the wheels when they are cold

2. what do you recommend for protection/sealant for the wheels?

i was told that prima wheel armour is safe. i have a brand new bottle of that. i had used poorboy's world wheel sealant on clearcoated wheels in the past and was happy with the results/protection. i was also told that this product is safe for anodized finishes/surfaces.

3. what wax do you recommend for the painted surfaces under the hood?

i am looking for a high temp wax. so far, i have only confirmed auto finesse mint rims wheel wax as being one.

tia.

Glad to help!

1.) I would avoid cleaning those wheels in direct sun when possible, because often times the mineral deposits in water can leave residue behind or tech in to the wheels as it dries. If you do work in direct sun rinse them frequently. For maintenance cleanings soap and water is just fine. When you need a stronger cleaner the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect is top notch and it should be safe on all finishes including anodized wheels. To be safe I still always recommend testing a small area with any new product on any new surface.

The P21S Wheel Cleaner should also be safe on those wheels, but I haven't use P21S TAW on them to say for sure.

2.) I haven't used Prima so I don't have any experience to share there. For normal protection the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant is top notch! It is very resistant to high temperature brake dust and it should help contaminants rinse clean.

Another option has recently come about for wheel protection called the 22ple VM1 Rim and Metal Coating. This stuff is incredibly strong and resistant to contaminants and brake dust. It should protect the wheels for a year or more! It's more expensive but it does work really well and the wheels look great afterward.

3.) Sealants are far more resistant to heat than any natural wax, so I'd highly recommend a sealant for under the hood. If you have a sealant handy you can certainly use that. If not the Klasse All In One (AIO) is one of my favorites, it's very durable and it helps clean while protecting.

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage.com

Glad to help!

1.) I would avoid cleaning those wheels in direct sun when possible, because often times the mineral deposits in water can leave residue behind or tech in to the wheels as it dries. If you do work in direct sun rinse them frequently. For maintenance cleanings soap and water is just fine. When you need a stronger cleaner the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect is top notch and it should be safe on all finishes including anodized wheels. To be safe I still always recommend testing a small area with any new product on any new surface.

The P21S Wheel Cleaner should also be safe on those wheels, but I haven't use P21S TAW on them to say for sure.

2.) I haven't used Prima so I don't have any experience to share there. For normal protection the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant is top notch! It is very resistant to high temperature brake dust and it should help contaminants rinse clean.

Another option has recently come about for wheel protection called the 22ple VM1 Rim and Metal Coating. This stuff is incredibly strong and resistant to contaminants and brake dust. It should protect the wheels for a year or more! It's more expensive but it does work really well and the wheels look great afterward.

3.) Sealants are far more resistant to heat than any natural wax, so I'd highly recommend a sealant for under the hood. If you have a sealant handy you can certainly use that. If not the Klasse All In One (AIO) is one of my favorites, it's very durable and it helps clean while protecting.

Greg @ DI

thanks for replying w/ your detailed post.

gotcha on not cleaning in direct sun. i never do but this is a good reminder
i already use sonax for wheels, so i am set there.

i have used poorboys wheel sealant before on clearcoated wheels and loved it. i try as sealant on the anodized wheels.

yeah, i actually was gonna ask about 22ple. as far as you know, is it safe on anodized finish for sure? i was not able to get a confirmation on this.

i have menzerna power lock but also have lots of klasse AIO left. i can use the latter.

thanks again.

What are your thoughts on the drivethrew brown bear car washes?

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Bimmer App

Whats best way to remove scratches in clear coat?

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Bimmer App

Hello Greg

I have a black sedan and was wondering what would be the process of meguair products I should use? How is meguairs ultimate compound?

Greg,
My BMW 330Ci TiSilber looks fine but I'd like to take it to the next level as far reflectivity and clarity. So, what should I use? 1800 grid wet paper?

Thanks,
Mark

Hi. I am painting my car doing a full co lour change from topaz blue to ford frozen white with blue pearl through the clear coat. i am aware that you cant wax the car for a certain time. im wondering is it still okay to snow foam it and hand wash it and what products can i put on to protect the paint and give off a nice lasting shine?

thanks Robaidh

Hi D.I., I'm sure the answer is in this thread, but even with a search I couldn't find it. I recently purchased about everything I need for wash/dry and polish (foam gun, mitts, orbital polisher, all the bits and pieces and soaps and polishes etc) And plan on doing my first polish soon. I get confused on the sealant process. I have some chemical guys citrus wash, which I understand will remove any wax/sealant that is on the car. What's the process at this point if I want to wash/dry, clay bar, polish and apply new sealant? Thanks!

I'm not sure if this has been asked but, my friend gave me a tire shine to use on my ///M and it dried out my tires and it looks horrible. Is there any product out there you would recommend to use to fix this ? I find myself with a nicely washed and clean car with these dried out looking tires. Thanks.

Would you be willing to set up a package and discount code for e46fanatics members for a complete DIYer setup soap, was towels, mitts, polish, clay bar, wax, etc of your recommended products? Thanks.