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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 07-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #41
TxZHP04
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Originally Posted by marct335i View Post
Bump for some advice for my e34... I do not have an ATI damper yet, nor an upgraded oil pump, however I will not be tracking the car without those whatsoever. My question is, for DD and spirited drives, is the ATI necessary? I wouldn't hold the revs at any higher than say 5000rpm, rev up and shift. What rpm is an acceptable shift point? Thanks for any advice... after completely rebuilding the motor, I do not want to take any chances.
Not too familiar with your e34 but being older and likely having an iron block and a different crank from that used in the e46's M54B30, you may not have the problems discussed in this thread. Keep in mind the issues being discussed here are specific to the M54B30 motor.
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Old 07-28-2012, 09:58 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
Not too familiar with your e34 but being older and likely having an iron block and a different crank from that used in the e46's M54B30, you may not have the problems discussed in this thread. Keep in mind the issues being discussed here are specific to the M54B30 motor.
I realize that it's m54b30 specific, that's why I'm here instead of bfc. I'm talking about my e34 m54.

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Old 07-29-2012, 09:41 AM   #43
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I'm talking about my e34 m54.
Don't run across those every day....

As to your question, the stock m54b30 is perfectly reliable for normal street driving. You can run it up to red line and shift as much as you want - the problems begin when you start hanging out above 6k rpm for more extended periods of time (and the higher the rpm, the less time it takes for problems arise).
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:32 PM   #44
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Mine did about 35 track hours under boost, 115k miles (50k under boost) before it blew up which is actually really good. Although I am nervous because non-M E46s have been dying left and right at the tracks this year. 4 so far. Mine - oil pump nut. 330ZHP, 140k miles - rod #5 died a horrible death. I know there was another oil pump nut, no details on the car. The 4th...lost the oil pan. Which is baffling because you'd have to take out the front reinforcement plate...but you can only blame the driver for that.

I would say the oil pump nut is a relatively cheap fix compared to the potential bill. If the oil pump nut goes, you would not assume that you would realize it and shut down the car. So rod #6 will come out of hiding for some fresh air. As it does that, you'll throw aluminum up through the head. So at best you're looking at a block, rod, piston, head job. The destruction comes in WHEN you lock up the drivetrain. You'll bend the crank. Depending in which way rod 6 finds sunshine...your starter might be in the way. Usually starters are round...mine was oval. Oh, it probably took a chunk out of your bell housing. Now there's play in the input shaft on the tranny?

See where this is going???
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:54 AM   #45
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Does the harmonic problem effect automatics so much, given the way they damp the vibrations?
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:14 PM   #46
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Dampen the vibrations in what way differently than the gear boxes? You mean the trans fluid in the convertor?
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:51 PM   #47
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Yah. It's like how you're advised to stick with the stock dual-mass flywheel because the single mass can make the problem worse. is the torque converter one better at dampening?
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:25 PM   #48
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S54 Engine Noises

Sure wish I could contribute to this question, but, no can do. I would like to pose an S54 related question to the group. I'm beginning to think that my 72XXX M3 has a problem with its timing chain rail(s). I understand that changing them is a big deal - 10+ hours at a shop. My question is whether anyone has a good DIY workaround to R&R both chain rails with the engine in the car?
The car had the main bearings replaced, VANOS has new bolts and geared hubs, valve settings are good, new timing chain tensioner, and I still hear a noise that sounds like a "ssshhhhh" that a loose chain might make. Several local indy shops have agreed that the sound is not normal, and were paid to look for it, but can't identify what's making that sound.
Thanks for any insight or ideas.
Steve
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